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Do to the overwhelming e-mail we are unable to answer all the letters
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A word from Boating America Author Mark Cameron,
I have always been an avid boat fan. I've spent many summers in Michigan
(Traverse City area) and enjoyed having a good aluminum 12 foot row boat
to row around in. I used a little Johnson 3 hp. motor (that my grandfather
let me use). Not exactly a fast moving boat but hey! I was only 12. Then
came the 15 Hp. 1955 Evinrude that I still to this day have sitting in
the garage, ( I have it stashed behind an old toy barn that my son has
been nagging me to refurbish) . This old monster last ran in 1982 and I
am scared to death that it may never start again if and when I get it out.
But in the old days it got me up to 18 miles per hour on that 12 foot row
boat. It even pulled me water skiing! Then because of family reasons I
didn't go back to Michigan until 94. After 11 years worth of trips to Myrtle
Beach and a brief sprint to the Caribbean and Hawaii, I realized I missed
spending time on the water with complete control of my own craft (The bug
Returns). June 20th 1994 I broke down and bought my first 18 foot open
bow ski boat. I had looked and looked and picked up a phone book size worth
of pamphlets at boat shows and even figured up different payments, interest
and price ranges. Then I walked in the show room that morning and looked
at a boat that I had been eyeing, went to the sales person that I had been
driving crazy for better then two years, and said "write it up".
Ok its only an 18 foot but it is small enough for the kind of inland
lakes and rivers I like and its big enough for the kids and I without going
overboard on HP. limits. It is a Kentucky based manufacturer and it uses
the ever famous Mercrusier outdrive in the 3.0 litre 4 cylinder format.
Its a first boat, low payment, low insurance and light enough for the van
to idle it out of the water. I can get up to 40 miles per hour on a ski
prop but I generally stay at a 20 - 30 miles per hour speed.
I pulled into the Marine dealership that following morning ready to
pick up the boat and brought the kids with me (not telling them what I
was up to I might add). My daughter 8 and son 5 just thought it was just
another trip to a dealer which I was sure they found boring until we went
back to the van and the boat and trailer were all hooked up. The kids needless
to say were excited probably more than I was.
-First Time Out-
If you remember your first day out with your new boat, or have yet to experience
it, is probably one of the most exciting days of your life, (with the exception
of a wedding day). I pulled the boat to a lake outside of Zanesville, Ohio
just east of Columbus where we bought it. backed it down the ramp for the
first time.... (I suppose your waiting for the ole "I forgot the plug"
story) but luckily the guy in front of me forgot his and I saw him start
to sink while he was floating there. Needless to say I was a prior row
boater and knew about plugs. The other guy managed to jump in the water
and screw it in submerged. My boss at work however sunk his to his carperator.
I felt like a real pro running the blower for the proper five minutes,
checking the life jackets, all brand new right out of the store. I had
the kids buckled up and we were off to the fun of backing down the boat
ramp. All was fine until I realized that I forgot to undo the straps after
noticing the boat was getting a bit deep without floating off the trailer.
Oh well I guess it was just as embarrassing. I pulled back out, disconnected
all the straps and off to her maiden voyage on Dillon Lake . With the non-alcoholic
bottle of bubbly broken over the bow we were off. The boaters happiest
day of his life!
They say its the happiest day when they sell the boat too! But now nearly
two years later, each day I take the cover off with a full 30 gallon gas
tank I still feel just as happy! That day on Dillon lasted about two hours
when our first raging thunderstorm came along. We made a quick run for
the van and I backed the trailer down the ramp and spent the entire down-pour
trying to get lined up for the trailer (not bad considering the high winds).
After about 20-minutes I was up out of the water, engine up, drain out
and ready with the towels. Then on the way through Zanesville a light suddenly
changed and I couldn't stop in time and I could say it was my first written
warning pulling a trailer. It doesn't end there, I headed to visit a friend
and while trying to get situated backing up, a drunk driver came flying
down the road out of nowhere and I heard this sickening "screech". Fortunately
he only nicked the trailer, but I couldn't say much about his car! He got
out and looked at his car, turned to me, he looked mad and a bit dis-oriented,
(It was dark and I technically had the high beams on by accident and he
didn't see the trailer while I was backing) and he asked me who was going
to pay for the damage to his car. I (with my heart still raging and still
wet from the storm) said, "let me make a phone call, the sheriff should
take a report". I headed for my car phone and he immediately backed down
and ran to his car and took off. Yes he really reeked of alcohol and didn't
to file a report. Needless to say I little touch up paint on the Tennesse
Trailer with the Bearing Buddies did the trick! To this day I still practice
backing without taking up more than my lane.
Not a bad first day, at least the boat wasn't at the bottom of the lake.
I have taken that boat on lake after lake in Michigan, West Virginia and
my home state of Ohio. I also broke my first prop a week later while on
vacation near Traverse City on Torch lake. It happened while trying to
out run a Thunderstorm, that I have been a magnet for lately.
This summer I plan on a relaxing house boat trip on Kentucky's Lake
Cumberland. I have never been there and I am very excited about it!
Favorite Inland Lake Trip:
Chain of Lakes near Traverse City, Michigan. In Elk Rapids 21 miles north
on U.S. 31 a convenient boat ramp near downtown allows you access to both
Lake Michigan on the lower ramp at the marina (one of the best ones I have
visited I might add), and Elk Lake on the upper ramp about a block away.
Its about 60 miles round trip, restaurants and gas stops are available
along the way. South on Elk leads to Lake Skegomog, then you head for the
stumps (there are markings), and look for Torch River. On the way into
Torch River you may watch for the Bald Eagle who sits perched on top of
a dead tree to the west. Its about 5 miles in "no wake" then you come up
on a small town on the south end of the huge inland lake, Torch Lake. Its
also one of the clearest with depth visibility up to 20 feet in some areas
making a depth finder unnecessary. Carefully follow the markings that guides
you out of the river onto the lake. If you venture out of the way you will
hit sand as shallow as a foot 100 yards from shore. Its also a great place
to pop up a volleyball net! Then about 7 miles up torch you want to keep
your eye on the east side of the lake where the valley appears to be and
head into Clam Lake. A nice bar/restaurant sits at the entry point with
reasonable and tasty food. I believe I had a burrito while the kids chowed
on hot dogs. Clam lake is about half to a quarter as wide as the Ohio River
and is a full wake zone. As you head east you will come up on markings
that guide you into Grass River. Be ready to be followed by Ducks and Swans
if your kids happen to have popcorn! (a picture of this locale is used
as a setting for a Four Winds Boat advertisement in their 94' catalog).
Grass river (no wake) takes you into the wilderness for several brief moments
between the occasional houses but is one of the most beautiful parts of
the trip. We stopped along the way and did some swimming. After about 8
or 9 miles its onto Lake Bellaire. By now you will be along way from Elk
Rapids. Lake Bellaire is surrounded by houses on scarce lake front property.
Its not big enough to generate large waves and is therefore great for skiing.
Be careful when entering from Grass River, stay straight for about 400
yards and you are set!. You can actually retrailer onto Intermediate Lake
(above the Dam in Bellaire in Antrim County) and go up several more lakes
including Six Mile and Wilson.
If you like to Fish, this will be one long troll you will never forget.
On Grass River it was as easy as casting the rod!
Back in Elk Rapids we caught up with a couple whom had made the trip
on Jet Skis. I used about 15 gallons of fuel, and still had enough for
the rest of the vacation. Lodging is expensive in the Traverse City area
in July but the best time seems to be in June when the weather (at least
it seems) to be drier then, and with less expensive rooms available.
The Best: Grand Traverse Resort Hotel
Budget: Many National Chains ie. Super 8 etc.
Slips: Elk River Inn has several located in Elk Rapids on Elk Lake.
Homely: There are still a few Ma, Pa run cottages available in the area
some people have been going to for years and years (which my grandparents
use to run as well). Check the Grand Traverse area of Commerce for such
a listing.
Also if you like the big stuff, Grand Traverse's Bay offers shelter
from the Lake Michigan roughness and a suggested stop is Suttons bay and
North Port on the west bay area. The weather changes quickly and I recommend
a Marine Radio for Lake Michigan.
I know this is getting long, but this is one of many stories I find
myself getting into with many other boaters that are shut in for the winter,
except in the south. If you have any experiences on exciting all day boating
trips or Great Lake Crossings, Waterways etc., E-Mail me your experiences
and I will post them. Also be sure to check out boaters news groups which
I have posted on the "Links Page".
Mark Cameron
Space for tips on your boating techniques
Be sure to E-Mail me by
clicking herefor information you find useful in your boating routine.
Subject: Paintsville Lake Ky.
Date: Jul 97 20:45:59 +0000
From: boataholic@aol.com NAME : Mike Justus,,,,Delaware, OH
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Kentucky Wonder! Paintsville Lake
My family and I, along with another couple, had the opportunity to discover
Paintsville Lake in June of this year. Oh, what a gem we found! The lake
is located in eastern Kentucky near the town of Paintsville and only about
4 miles off Rt. 23. It is approximately 200 miles from Columbus or about
4 to 4 1/2 hrs driving time, depending on stops. The lake is not real large
at 1,100 acres but it is approx. 20 miles long to its most navigable point.
In fact, the term lake is somewhat of a misnomer because after you get
approximately 3 miles above the dam, it narrows down considerably to more
resemble a river. A deep river....depths in the channel were often 75’
or more. The lake is not for the go fast types, with its twisting “S”
turns and narrow areas, it's more for the cruiser that likes to take it
slow and enjoy the sights. There are quite a few bass fishermen fishing
the drop-offs along the entire length. I recommend you slow down to a no
wake speed when passing them. We discovered that after coming up and down
off plane so much to avoid disturbing them with our wake, that it was easier
just to cruise the entire length at no wake speed. The lake appears to
receive very little traffic from out of state visitors. I was amazed at
how little boat traffic there was for a summer weekend. Although there
are houseboats-both private and rentals- at the marina, we saw only one
houseboat out on the lake all weekend. Most of what traffic there was appeared
to be fishing boats and pontoons. There is one launch ramp at the dam near
the lakes only marina. The ramp is very good and not steep at all. After
launching our boats, we skirted a large island near the dam and proceeded
to the nearest swim cove for lunch and a swim. The water was clear and
refreshing! After a few hours we decided to push on toward the upper reaches
of the lake. As the lake narrowed down , we began to appreciate the hidden
beauty of this jewel. We motored by miles of rocky limestone bluffs complete
with caves, overhangs and huge boulders. We gazed at the oaks, cedars and
rhododendrons clinging tenaciously to these cliffs. I wondered how many
bass the fallen trees at the base of these rocks held. If you could picture
cruising through the Hocking Hills cave area in your boat, it would be
a similar experience! We arrived at a fork in the lake and headed up the
portside branch. We quickly found an uninhabited cove, set the hook and
rafted off each other. We took turns using the wave runner to explore further
from our “base camp”. I discovered a pristeen small
cove with a waterfall spilling over the craggy rocks at one end, surrounded
by a thick grove of wild rhododendron. I mentally marked that spot for
a future anchorage! After supper aboard, we enjoyed a nice evening swim
and enjoyed the tranquility of our quite little cove. Saturday brought
more great weather and another day of exploring all of the lake’s
nooks and crannies. We departed Sunday, beating a thunderstorm, but vowed
to come back to this beautiful place. It was truly a trailerboaters dream!
EMAIL : boataholic@aol.com NAME : Mike Justus,,,,Delaware, OH
Thanks Mike for the mail, I dropped this in the techniques because of
the idea of base camping and running politely around bass fisherman. This
lake sounds great, I hope to launch in down there sometime soon. Take care
and happy boating this summer! -Mark
Subject: Advice and Question
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 97 20:45:59 +0000
From: John Kimbrough <John_Kimbrough@adoc.xerox.com>
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Mark:
I enjoyed reading your experience, as well as many of the others, and the
Gilligan's Island theme song on your home page is a classic !!!
As for my personal experiences, I have to say mine have been flawless to
date, however I have only had my boat a short time. I have seen other boaters
who have traveled great distances and forgot to bring the keys to their
boat with them and then trying to "hot-wire" their boats on the launch
ramp I strongly recommend to folks (especially those who are known to forget
things from time to time) to keep a second set of keys hidden in your towing
vehicle at all times.
Also, Do you know of any good sources for purchasing discount outboard
motor parts via catalogs. I have a 1987 Force 125HP OB which I' planning
to rebuild this coming winter.
John Kimbrough A California Waters Boater
I lost one of my keys once after ramping onto a river just above a small
dam. After shoving off we started drifting towards the dam (which is a
non controlled water fall type I forget the technical name) I wound up
hot wiring the boat rather than fighting the current with oars. I had about
300 yards to spare. Now I start my boat while on the trailer and back off,
doing away with the "getting shoved off without keys problem". The advice
is well taken, I keep a spare key in my wallet for that just in case scenario.
I haven't come across any parts catalogs for motors, there are exhaust
manifolds for many engines (which usually fail after two years when used
heavily in salt water) so your best bet is to contact your Force dealer,
they may have a parts shop type of catalog that you may be able to order
from or at least be able to supply you with the necessary rings and valve
replacement parts, or whatever else you may need to rebuild. Good luck
this winter ! -Mark
Subject: need info with pontoon boat
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 97 17:37:03 +0000
From: "mike miller" <saftysrv@gte.net>
Reply-To: <@gte.net>
To: <Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net>
thanks mark for your usefull info on boating just found your site today.
I have a 1977 24 foot Landau pontoon with a 90 hp johnson engine ob. my
question is i need a owners manual for this boat or address or phone number
for Landau. also i use this boat/motor in salt water ( Tampa bay area )
every week end ,how should i rinse this off ? i do trailer in and out each
wkend thanks mike miller
I would recommend contacting http://www.bysnet.com/portside/
for a Landau dealer for your Pontoon. They may have the recommended manuals.
When running in salt water part time I would suggest flushing the engine
as soon as you pull it out. Also hose down the entire water exposed craft
which will rinse the salt off and will reduce the speed of the erosion.
Make sure that before you put in salt water that you make sure all your
throttle and stirring cables are well lubricated to reduce exposure to
the salt water air and any splashes. Good luck and see out on Tampa Bay
sometime! (where my picture above was taken) :) . -Mark
Subject: Thanks
Date: Sun, 8 Jun 97 21:03:19 +0000
From: Kf4dxh@aol.com
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Thanks Mark, I just had a very enjoyable "first launch" Expereince with
the used boat I purchased, just a few days ago. Everything went smooth,
and everything worked properly.( I did have to make two attempts at the
ramp while backing up though). Just wanted to comment to you how the tips
on your page were very helpfull to me. Thanks a lot for the info, and I'll
be checking your page on a regular basis for more "how to's" Stan Parnell,
Charlotte, NC
Glad to hear it worked out, the backing up is the hardest part! -Mark
Subject: Boat Launch Courtesy
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 97 22:06:29 +0000
From: STV96@aol.com
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Mark, The one thing about a boat launch is that it is where you start and
finish your boating enjoyment. Here are some do's and don'ts. Never pull
up to the ramp, shut off your truck, and start to take off your cover,
move fishing gear from the truck to the boat, ect. Do that in the parking
lot first then pull up to the boat ramp, even if there is no one at the
ramp when you first pull up, someone may arrive later that is ready to
roll. Never rush the person in front of you, even if they are unloading
there truck. Boats range in price from $500.00 to above $100,000.00 and
so does the experience of that person in front of you, they may be nervous
about there first launch or it's a new boat to them and they are not familiar
with it yet and they need more time. If you offer help make sure that they
actually want help, some people are just slower than others. Some people
like to power their boats onto the trailer, that is a very effective way
to load your boat but don't over rev the engine because it causes prop
wash, (the big drop off at the edge of the ramp). I hope these tips help
make the next boating trip a enjoyable time for everyone.
I agree 100 %. Especially on a busy Sunday! Running too much power
while pulling onto the trailer can also cause small groups of fish to be
pulled into the prop wash causing a deadly situation for the fish. A little
thrust is all you need, otherwise back the trailer in a little more. Thanks
for your input! -Mark
Subject: What can I do?
Date: Fri, 21 Feb 97 03:55:33 +0000
From: ParMan2@aol.com
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
I bought an 81 Whaler from a friend who had left it in the water long enough
to grow a small oyster bed on the bottom. The boat has been out of the
water for 2-3 years, and these shells just refuse to come off. A putty
knife can get some...but not all. I know I will need some work on the bottom,
but is there any way I can get most if not all of the shells off prior
to taking it to the fiberglass shop so my cost may be reduced?
You may want to try a high power car wash type of spray but with a lot
more pressure. Also check your marine store for legal chemicals that won't
harm fiberglass that will help soak the items off. Different states have
different chemicals available. If all else fails I would then ask the fiberglass
specialist about sanding it off and relaying layers of fiberglass coated
with epoxy. Once you are back in the water and if you don't trailer regularly
it would be a good idea to wipe the boat down including the entire hull
and engine compenents regularly to clear away the build up. Its easy to
take up snorkeling and go under the hull on smaller boats while anchored
off a cosy beach and use a mop type of handle to clean it off. If the weather
is too cold I would recommend trailering it to clean it off regularly.
Also don't forget to check into antifouling paint (avaialble in many areas
of the U.S.).
-Mark
Subject: Hydrofoil Stabilizer
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 97 02:57:41 +0000
From: "tim.conley" <tim.conley@internetmci.com>
To: Mark Cameron <Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net>
Mark-great page! Lot's of great tips and suggestions useful to a variety
of boaters. I commend you on your detailed answers. You apparently do your
homework!
I have a 21ft Raven Cuddy Cabin. We use it for a variety of activities.
One of which being wake-boarding and knee boarding. These activities require
slower speeds of 18-22mph. Problem is this: My boat consistenly falls off
plane. It will maintain in very calm waters but, even a small boat wake
will cause it to come off plane. Continually adjusting the throttle is
a hastle. The boat is equipped with a Mercruiser I/O and an Alpha I outdrive.
I am considering putting a hydrofoil-stablizer on to correct this problem..Do
you think it will? Perhaps I should invest in trim-tabs (personally I think
the boat is too small for trim-tabs)? Does the stabilizer have any side-effects?
One more thing: My wife and I are going to the NC Outerbanks for a week-long
cruise. What sort of extra engine parts would you recommend for this trip?
Thanks in advance!
Tim Conley
I wouldn't invest in trim tabs for your particular size of boat, but
the hydrofoil will help reduce the speed you need to reach to get up in
plane by a couple of miles per hour. Unfortunately you are running at speeds
that just begin to put the boat up on a steady plane, especially at 18
miles per hour. With a lighter weight load it will be more steady at 18,
but drop off when you are hauling passengers beyond your spotter. At speeds
of 22 (with a hydro add on kit) you should wipe out the problem all together.
If you are still encountering speed changes you may want to change your
prop to a new pitch giving you more revolutions at the same speeds (this
will cut down in your top end however). As far as your trip to the outer
banks, you should have a marine radio, the usual safety gear, plenty of
food in case of engine problems, a GPS or Loranz and good charts that indicate
marinas and fueling stops. Thanks for the compliment on the site and have
fun on your trip ! -Mark
Subject: Your Page
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 97 00:18:51 +0000
From: jsg22@frognet.net
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
HI MARK LAST YEAR I PURCHASED A SIMILAR RUNABOUT WITH THE 3 LITER 4 CYLINDER
MERCRUISER COMBINATION THAT YOU STATED IN YOUR LETTER. WITH ONE SEASON
UNDER OUR BELTS AS THE OWNER OF THIS NEW BOAT WE FOUND THAT IT EASILY MET
OUR NEEDS AS A DEPENDABLE FAMILY BOAT CAPABLE OF INLAND LAKE CRUISING AND
TOWING WATER TOYS. YOUR LETTER WAS REFRESHING IN ITS TREATMENT OF THE COST
FACTORS RELATING TO BOAT OWNERSHIP BASED ON BOATING USAGE AND NOT STRICTLY
ON APPEARANCES. IN REGARDS TO THE AWKWARD BOATING MOMENTS I WILL ADMIT
TO TEARING UP ONE PROP, PULLING THE BOAT OUT OF THE WATER WITH THE LOWER
UNIT DOWN ONCE, AND VARIOUS DEMONSTRATIONS OF HOW NOT TO LAUNCH AND RETRIEVE
A BOAT. YOUR PLANS FOR LAKE CUMBERLAND SOUND GREAT, WE ARE LOOKING FORWARD
TAKING OUR BOAT DOWN TO ROUGH RIVER RESERVOIR IN KENTUCKY THIS SUMMER.
GOOD LUCK FRED
There are thousands like us huh Fred ! Let me know how the Rough River
Reservoir turns out, have a great 97!
Subject: First Mate's Advice
Date: Tue, 21 Jan 97 04:18:22 +0000
From: "N. Sando" <nsando@vivanet.com>
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Just found your page and really like it. In response to some letters asking
for advice on putting the boat in the water, docking, etc. - this First
Mate's first piece of advice to all the "Captains" out there is DO NOT
yell (scream, holler, swear) when engaging in any boating activity. It
can make the crew want to mutiny! We now have our second boat and both
try to remain as cool, calm, and collected as we can - even when things
go wrong. It takes some practice. Somtimes for entertainment these days,
we sit on the dock by the launch ramps and watch other people - I think
there might be a book in it! Seriously, boating is fun and relaxing once
you find some ways to deal with the inevitable frustrations. So, if you're
new to boating - might we worth discussing with your mate before you put
that boat in the water.
I have heard of people sitting back for a full Sunday afternoon of entertainment
down at the boat ramps! Its true, about discussing the process with your
mate, and even practicing on a slow launch day. I have seen this demonstrated
by a fishing club here in Columbus that meets on some Tuesdays where around
50 boats launch on four ramps in less time then it takes 8 to 10. One in
the boat while the vehicle backs down, tilts engine in while hitting the
water, starts engine, releases boat backs off, all while the trailer is
moving backwards, brakes are hit and the truck pulls forward and the boat
is out and away from the ramp and over to tempoary tie up, all in a matter
of seconds. The traffic keeps moving, try that on a Sunday sometime! A
little practice can gain a lot of speed and respect from for anyone waiting
behind any boater!. Have fun next summer ! -Mark
Subject: Fresh or salt Date:
Tue, 3 Dec 96 00:50:04 +0000
From: Perry Rivkind <par@flash.net>
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Mark, One more guestion please. Hampton Roads.Is the James River fresh
water.As I indicated to you in my last letter my boat will be in a slip
on that river.Just wanted to know that I don't have to flush the engine
and concern myself with corrosion if it's on fresh water. Thanks again
for your great advice. Perry
Perry that water is "brine" which is fresh water saturated with salt.
You should still flush for least amount of corrision. Even flushing on
freshwater lakes is good practice to remove sand and mud which can build
up in the engine. Your plans on the boat with the 200 HP OB engine should
be easy to flush while even tilted out of the water (unlike stern drives).
Some stern drive models have radiators that have coolant just like cars
and don't cool with raw sea water. These units are popular with many salt
water boaters since you have less engine corision with this setup. If you
switch to stern drive model, check into this kind of cooling system. Local
Marine dealers in Virginia are more than friendly when it comes to advice!
-Mark.
Subject: advice
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 96 18:11:09 +0000
From: Perry Rivkind <par@flash.net>
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Mark, I'm moving to Hampton Roads,Va. and plan to buy a boat.I'm interested
in fishing, cruising the rivers and ocean in that area.It's all water up
there.Interested in a 23' Sunbird neptune cabin 230.It weighs 4100 lbs..
and will be in a boat slip on the James river.Want to use it in the winter,
thats why I want a cabin.First,do I need the bottem painted and is this
the appropriate boat for the described uses and area. It also holds a 130
gals.of gas and has a 200 OB Johnson.It's just my wife and me.She wants
me to buy a smaller open type boat.Says its less work.Appreciate your advice.
Perry
The size of boat you are looking at is fine but be careful of bad weather!.
I have been in the Hampton Roads area in January and as for the winter
boating you should be fine. I would keep an eye out for cold weather patterns
and watch water temperatures just in case of freezing problems, winters
there do have a few cold spells, mostly ice though. Have a trailer handy
in case of a real hard freeze, you could pull out and drain the necessary
items, bilge etc. A cabin boat does require more work as far as winterizing,
especially with holding tanks. You should store fresh water tanks with
an RV type of antifreeze that is safe for the environment, and as far as
the winter cabin goes, skip the bathroom / shower (if equipped) until March.
Your wife is right as far as smaller boats go, they are easier, but a true
boating hobbiest won't mind a little extra work!. The bottom paint is a
must. Anti fowling paint (if I have that spelled correctly) will help prevent
organisims from building up on the bottom of the boat and ultimately give
you continued easy planes when running at higher speeds, especailly if
it sits at a slip instead of on a trailer. Spend the extra money, its worth
it!. -Mark
One more question Mark.I get differant stories on the question of MPG.What
MPG could I expect on a 4000 lb.Neptune Sunbird Cuddy with a 200 HP Johnson
traveling at 28MPH ? This boat holds 130 Gallons of gas. Thanks again,
Perry Rivkind
Boat fuel is measured in miles per gallon and / or gallons per hour,
it would peak at about 25 or 30 or so depending on torque etc, so at that
speed you might get about 2.5 miles per gallon or around 10-12 gallons
per hour. Not the Geo Metro type of mileage, but the lighter the boat the
more fuel miles it would have. You should go about 13 hours on a tank,
unless your loaded down with passangers, or 120-140 miles. I suggest go
out 1/3 then turn around and come back on the 2/3, leave yourself a good
1/3 tank for bad weather, currents or god forbid, emergencies. -Mark
Subject: Winter Storage
Date: Sat, 19 Oct 96 19:42:59 +0000
From: KRossi6064@aol.com
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Hi , I have 1970 Evinrude outboard 85 horsepower,what can I do to winterize
the engine that I am storing it and the boat on my driveway??Please let
me know about it soon as possible!!!!!
Outboards are easier to winterize than I/Os so here are a few tips,
of course you should always refer to a manual. Most people will hook up
the engine to a water hose using cups (available for about 4 dollars at
Walmart) start the engine and squirt oil into the carberator for a few
minutes and then stalling it out. The smoke it generates coats the entire
inside of the engine and exhaust helping to reduce rust. Others may take
out each of the plugs and squirt oil in the cylinders and turn over the
crank a few times (if a hose isn't available). Next take the battery out
and clean the contacts, remove the tank and stablize any stored fuel (with
a stabilizer available at most marine and auto stores (on I/Os pour some
in your tank on your last outting so it gets into the fuel line as well).
Next obtain the proper gear oil (I use Quick Silver High Performance on
mine), and open the screw on the lower part of the engine just above the
skeg where it drains the gear oil. Also open the top screw this will help
all the oil to drain out. This is a great time to remove any water that
may be in the casing and eliminate a chance for cracking from ice. The
process is slow but worth it. Then pump oil in from the bottom with a gear
oil pump (available at all marine dealers). When the oil reaches the top
hole you are done (newer boats with reservoirs need to be topped off as
well). Remove the pump, pump some into the top (which the level may be
a little low with a few air bubbles), and your gear oil is changed!. Next
I recommend storing the trailer in a tilted postion so any moisture will
run out the back, and leave the drain hole unplugged. (some boats have
exhuast manifolds that must be drained for winter storing or pumped with
anti freeze, other should have an anti freeze change depending on the type
of I/O unit). Next Jack the trailer so the wheels don;t get a flat spot,
check your trailer bearings, re torque your lug nuts, and lube any necessary
parts (ie. power tilt if applicable, check reservoir). You may also want
to coat your steering lines and throttle linkages with special lube 101
(some use WD40) to make sure the lines are working properly. Plan to spend
an afternoon and then in the spring you will be ready to be back out on
the lake by hooking up the tank and battery and you're set. -Mark
Subject: Hello, I have a wee tip.
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 96 00:35:11 +0000
From: david richardson <"richardsonm@voyager.net"@voyager.net>
Organization: MMC
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
For those who have a three chamber boat (like my 18ft 4 winns w/ 55hp johnson),
and forgot to put the plug in - you need not worry. If your boat has more
than one air chamber (where the rainwater usually goes) and you forgot
the plug, just take the boat out and run it at a fast clip (faster is better),
thus the water will drain to the stern drain hole and the momentum will
force most of the water out - this may take a while (depending on how long
you noticed the water sneaking in). And after you get most of the water
out, get to the back and plug the hole while your still cruising - this
is the only way I now of to get the water out (if you've already left the
dock). I learned this from my uncle on Pentwater lake - I guess it happened
to him:) I live close to Silver Lake (Silver Lake Sand Dunes) and am pretty
much surrounded by lakes - Pentwater lake is 11 miles from here. Dave
I have seen that experience more than once even on personal watercraft.
If you have enough time and are not weighed down by too much water on the
boat you can usually get up to plane and with a little trim you can nose
up and dump out the water, especially helpful along with the bilge pump.
I strongly recommend to trailer the boat unless you have the plug with
you and in that case pull up on a beach where you're not in mud and then
screw it in. Other wise if you are weighed down its bucket time or swim!
-Mark
Subject: boating questions
Date: Sun, 8 Sep 96 17:28:23 +0000
From: Clay Ross <rossdc1@concentric.net>
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Mark,
I just ran upon your page and I think it's great! I recently bought a 17'
1976 Winner 120hp I/O. It's an older boat, but we were assured by the dealer
that it was really in great condition (I really had no choice but to take
his word for it). Now, you must understand, this is our first boat and
my wife or I know nearly nothing about boating, but we figured we would
learn as we go. We took it to one of the area lakes last weekend (we live
in the Kansas City Area) in hopes of christening it with a fabulous weekend
of boating. Needless to say, we had a very bad day with it. Alot of our
troubles had to do with flooding the engine, the inability to back the
trailer, trouble putting the boat in the water, taking the boat out of
the water and keeping the boat running while in the water. The boat would
die when I throttled down quickly from full to idle, and we wouldn't be
able to get it started again, three of us ended up paddling back about
1.5 miles to the boat dock with one paddle and 2 water skis. I am sure
it was a funny sight for anyone watching (I am sure I would have laughed
myself silly had I been watching), but it was not really that funny to
be a participant. When we got back home my wife wanted me to sell the boat.
I was wondering if you could post a beginners guide to boating, all the
basic's of what to do and NOT to do, and a guide for those that know nothing
about baoting who want to buy a boat. Thanks in advance. And thank you
for your page.
Clay Ross Shawnee, Kansas
I have heard of first experiences like these many times. I think you
may want to tune up your engine however, it shouldn't stall during a complete
stop from a full throttle. Have all your filters and the timing checked.
A new set of plugs and wires would help decrease gas consumption. As far
as backing the boat, a secret to the first time out is to take it out on
a weekday by yourself or with a first mate and get the feel of backing,
launching, trailering and operation (weekdays are great for this, there
is never anyone around to watch you make a few mistakes). Then you will
have a feel of whats coming up when the whole family and friends are there
watching the christening. In your case I would reschedule the christening,
after a couple of pratice runs and a tune up! I must admit one thing
I did do last summer as far as stalling goes, I was running my 18ft open
bow out on Grand Traverse Bay when the weather was changing, causing some
3-5 foot waves to roll in. I hooked up my safety cut-off switch to my belt
and managed to take the boat out to the Old Mission Light House, about
6 miles from Elk Rapids. We got out to the tip, staying about 500 yards
from shore to avoid the Shoals (rocks), and when I stood up after stopping
the engine cut off. I was thinking to my self and caused concern to my
kids, that the engine wouldn't restart and we will have to drift back to
shore which may take hours. Then I remembered the cutoff switch, and luckily
got the now flooded engine started. Fortunately I had a cellular phone
and a GPS along to call for help in case the waves got any worse. I rarely
boat on Lake Michigan, I like to stay more inland, but my oldest daughter
had to see that lighthouse! (quite spectacular at sunset !).
I will look into developing a new section for first time buyers, and
be sure to ask your wife if she would give it another chance after a few
pratice runs. Also be sure to look into a Boaters Safety course, Good luck
on your next run Clay! -Mark
Subject: References
Date: Tues, 27Aug 96 10:57:00 PDT
From: John Moody (address withheld)
To: "'Mark-Cameron@Worldnet.att.net'" <Mark-Cameron@Worldnet.att.net>
I must admit that my friends and I boat quite frequently. It is a great
time until its time to pull out and then everyone has his or her own idea
of how to trailer the boat at the ramp. Five friends and I were pulling
out of Carter's Lake near Atlanta and we must have spent 15-minutes yelling
at each other, "Back it down, a little more to the right, no left I meant"
etc. Meanwhile a guy pulls up in his boat. Runs to his truck, backs down
the other ramp, runs to the dock, grabs the boat trailers it (we both have
drive up trailers), cranks the winch a few notches and out he goes, in
under 3-minutes. It was another 5 or so for us, and then we forgot to tilt
the engine up when we did pull out. What is the best way to trailer and
untrailer the boat?
John, you need to have your friends take a little walk once its trailer
time. Have one drive the boat up to the trailer once you have dunked and
then have him or her walk it out with you. I find that launching has been
easier by doing it by myself. I back in (after straps and plugs are checked
bower on etc.) and wait to see the back of the boat floating. Then I go
back to the boat and disconnect the winch and back it off, dock and then
park the van. Trailering is easy by yourself when your not busy analysing
suggestions from everyone!. I dock, back the trailer in unitl about 6 inches
of carpet is showing (or top wheels just sticking out for roller models).
Then I drive up and shut the engine down and tilt up. Then I winch the
boat on about a foot or so (occassionally I thrust up when and where its
legal, but thrusting can damage the guide if you hit it too hard, plus
you don't want to make a fish milkshake in case a school of fish happen
to be in the ramp area which is comon in the late summer). I Winch and
I am out of there. Later I strap, drain the engine and remove the drain
plug, wipe down cover and check the bearings, lights, and I am out of there.
Other people have their own methods of trailering such has always having
a first mate around, where two people can save time as long as a method
is discussed a head of time, (I've-seen it done in under 3-minutes). Good
luck John on your next run!
E-Mail
Subject: Your Web Site
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 1999 15:35:33 EST
From: Socalman35@aol.com
To: Mark-Cameron@boatingamerica.com
Mark,
Found this web site to be fun and informative. Just bought our first boat
(1999 20' IO Bayliner w/4cyl, bowrider)..and found out some interesting
lessons in the "shopping" game of buying boats. First, let me ask...have
not
seen any new entries in your email except one dated Mar 1, 1999..yet nothing
else all year?..anyway...Here's my "first time boat purchaser" story.
When we decided we were going to purchase a boat, our first intentions
were a
used boat..since we were in the $5 to $6K range. We wanted to pay cash,
and
not finance. I bought a "Boat Trader" magazine and started the hunt. We
knew
we wanted an open bow, IO style boat..and something that would hold 8 people
comfortably (as well as legally) since we have 3 kids. All of our friends
have
speed boats..but they only hold 4 or 5 people, they're loud, they're windy,
and there's no where to put an ice chest. Plus, I'm not very mechanically
inclined, and I know everyone who owns a speed boat with automotive engines
are always having to wrench on them...thats not for me. So, we head to
a
used/new boat dealer in our area. We pulled up and were given a price list.
We
liked this, since I don't like salesman following us around anyway. The
boat
that was pictured that originally took us in this dealers direction was
a
wreck. Needed interior work, outside paint..looked plain ugly..for $4,000!
So,
we kept looking. I then talked to a salesman, wanting to pick his brain
about
boats..prices of parts, expense, how do we know how many hours are on the
boat
if there's no meter, whats the plaque in the boat for..is that the legal
limit
of how many people can ride in boat..and if so, how come that 20' boat
says 10
people, and that 20' boat says 6 people?..here are the answers I received,
and
again, I had'nt read a magazine, a book, been in the net or anything.
"Engines...well theres
Volvo and theres Mercruiser. They're both GM
blocks..and if you had a problem, you could buy an engine for about $1200.
The
only difference is the head gaskets..copper instead of regular".
"I've been
selling boats for
30 years here..so I know my stuff"....(this was what the person told me).
The
correct answers are: Engines vary from about $4000 upwards to $12000,
depending on size, and this doesn't include the out drive portion of the
engine, which is another $2000 to $6000. My 4 cylinder Mercruiser with
Alpha 1
out drive is $6200 to replace. Marine engines are high performance parts..from
valves, cranks, pistons, rings and Marine sealed starter, alternators
exhaust...all that. They are higher performance, stronger
engines than automobiles..simply because they are designed to run at much
higher
rpms than a car, because most boats don't have transmissions.
The answer I was given
about the amount of people was: "Thats just a
number
they have to put on the boat for coast guard purposes, but you can put
more".
Some
boats just put a larger number than others, and charge more for their
boats"..The
real answer: The yellow plaque is mandated by coast guard on all boats
under
26' (I believe) and is 2 things. The boat can stay afloat for 72 hours
with
the posted amount
of weight or persons after being submerged..it will still float. It is
also
the maximum amount of people you can put in the boat..period. Same size
boats
are rated differently, because some are built better...therefore tests
show
they can withstand more weight/bodies for the 72 hours submerged test than
other boats. This is important...because it can help determine the quality
of
a manufacturor.
Why no meter?...salesman
said its not required..but really doesn't
mean much. Well, its true, its not required..but it is better to find a
used
boat that does have a meter on it. You can also tell by the carpet wear
and
tear....its a help, but not scientific.
When we accidently priced
some new boats (while next door looking at
more
used boats at another lot)..we decided it was worth it to buy new. Some
rumors
of brands and engines I heard at the boat show...Bayliner is a lower end
built
boat..and was built poorly prior to 95. They used Volvo/Penta systems..which
arent as good as Mercruiser (well this might be true..since Mercruiser
run
about 8% higher in price). The older (pre 95) Bayliners hold 5 or 6 people
(19
to 20") which was true. The outside jell coats were cheap and fade...again,
true..look at any 5 year or older Bayliner. Well...I am happy to say, that
with alot of research and asking questions of the "competition"...they
all
seem to say some good, and obvious things about this brand of boat. Bayliner
moved to the better engine system, they've fixed the gell coat problem,
and
they are better built, because now my 20' tested to hold 9 people, as rated
on
the yellow plaque.
Things I did'nt like about
buying this boat...after I paid? There is
no where to store the bimini top, and the bars do not fold. The trailer
came
with no spare. The kits I purchased from the dealer (coast guard kit, anchor
kit, bumper kit) cost less to buy the items from the dealer individually,
than
as a kit, and about 50% cheaper to buy them at a Walmart, Kmart, or any
sporting goods store.
So, if your thinking of
buying a boat...read alot, ask alot of
questions, and make them take you for a test drive. Oh, by the way..the
brand
new boat, with trailer and tax..was just over $12k...we think this was
a
steal..we'll let you know in 5 years!
Thanks for your input. I have always purchased my boats new, this way
you know where they have been and how they are being cared for. The prices
you quoted on the engines are reflecting brand new prices, keep in mind
if you have a failure in a used engine the best thing to do is resort to
rebuilding the engine or purchase a rebuilt engine and or outdrive (which
ever needs to be replaced). Otherwise its makes more sense to just
buy a new boat. The warranty is always a plus too. -Mark
Subject: No Subject
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 12:54:28 EST
From: Riverrtgrl@aol.com
Hi! I just purchased a Eliminator 250XP Eagle cuddy/bow rider.
The two
engines that I narrowed it down to were the Mercruiser 454 and 502.
The 502
is only 30 hp more but about $9,000.00 more in price. I was wondering
if the
502 performs that much better than the 454 because of the significant price
difference. Is the gas mileage going to be much different?
What is your
opinion on these two engines? I am having a very difficult deciding
on this
matter. Thank you for your advice.
Joanne
If you want to be the fastest, have more punch when towing skiers, and
enjoy that extra power when you need it, the few extra dollars is worth
it as long as your budget allows it. You will drink gas faster but mostly
at extreme speeds. Standard just above wake speeds (20 - 25 knots) will
not make much of any difference. Your resale percentage value
will be better as well. On the other hand if you are not out to be
the fastest, rarely tow or carry several passangers, and run frequently
on rough waters, then you may want to save and go with the smaller engine,
(since probably you won't be using the higher end rpms as much). Your resale
percentage however will be slightly lower. Both engines are reliable
from my experiences, however break them in by varying your speed for the
first 20 hours or so of running time. I have known a few BAJA dealers who
have gunned a new engine and burned out the gears on the outdrive
in undcr one hour of break-in.. Still under warranty but brings on
delays which can ruin a boating trip. -Mark
Mark, Just purchased a 1988 Grady White with a 1988 Mercury 175hp outboard.
After running at about 4000 rpm for about thirty minutes the engine started
to lose power like it was going to stall. I reduced the rpm to 2000 and
i made it back to the dock on the way I tried several times to increase
the speed and the speed would increase for a few seconds and then decrease
again. Any suggestions on what the problem might be. Thanks
for any help that you can provide.
It sounds like the fuel filter. Higher speeds drink fuel faster, if
the filter picked up anything in the tank it would have clogged and slowed
the engine down, slowing down drinks less fuel and therefore cleared up.
Fuel filters are relatively inexpensive and should be changed every year.
Also check fuel/oil mixture and related equipment and timing, (though timing
would slow down instantly at higher speeds), also rotor and or point related
ingnition. Good Luck ! -Mark
Subject: prop replacement
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 12:28:38 -0400
From: Izzy <jal-izzy@phillynet.com>
To: Mark-Cameron@boatingamerica.com
Being new to boating I have a dinged up prop that needs to be replaced.
I
have a 1988 23' Donzi with a merc Crusier Alpha 1 outboard powered with
an
OMC 260. I have the prop and a prop wrench, but no knowledge as to what
to
do. Can you help or tell me where to go.( please be kind when telling me
where to go )
Regards,
Izzy Barish
Changing a prop is simple. Simply use the prop wrench to pry back the
three or so metal retainers (that are bent forward
to prevent the nut from spinning) and then put the wrench on the nut
and unscrew it counter clockwise while holding the prop from spinning.
Be sure to note the order that the parts come off, checking for fishing
line between the prop and the washers. Just put the new or repaired prop
on in reverse order. The wrench makes it easy and can be done in just a
few minutes. -Mark
Subject: More Hp from 3.0 Mercruiser
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 1998 09:43:19 EDT
From: RBBertrand@aol.com
To: Mark-Cameron@boatingamerica.com
Mark ,
Just discovered your site from reading this Sundays's paper and am really
enjoying it. I see the same hesitation problem of the 3.0 Mercruiser I/O
that I have. The
3.0 liter is an excellent family boat to pull most water toys , but slow
to
pull a 200 lb skier w/ boat load of people. Is there some way to increase
hp or
shorten time to skiing speed? I am using the stainless steel prop as recommended
by
Bayliner. Thanks ! Rodney Bertrand
I have been expermenting with props more this year than usual, and
found that if you have several passangers on
board and want to pull a skier, your best bet is to purchase a prop
with a lower pitch. Keep your stainless for
general running, but with a simple prop tool and 60 seconds (plus it
gives you a chance to untangle any fishing line
you might have picked up), you can switch to a say 15" prop.
You will notice an increase in your maximum RPM
and a great speed reduction, but you will have plenty of power for
quick starts and you should still top out at about
30 or 32. With an empty load you will find about 38 - 40 with a 19"
prop and lower RPM maximum. A basic aluminum
prop will set you back about $ 129. You can order them through
Overton's online, (check our "Links" page). If you
are boating in water with a lot of shallow spots or debris (ie. floating
logs after a hard rain) a composite prop (around $ 89)
is more ideal and is cheaper to replace than an aluminum prop or an
outdrive shaft. They are also good for cornering and are ideal for 18 foot
(most boats under 22 ft overall). Also be sure to run a plus or better
grade of fuel for best power and if it
is hesitating in the take off you will need to check your timing or
consider a tune up. Either will also help lower your fuel
consumption. Check with your local Bayliner dealer for the ideal prop
for skiing, and if you do switch to a lower pitch
prop it would be best to try to keep your RPM under 4500, as it will
be easy to get to 5000. Have a great summer
boating! -Mark
Subject: Rebuilt 3.0 Mercruiser
Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 19:23:16 -0400
From: "Randy Westerfield" <rjwest@islc.n
Reply-To: <@islc.net>
To: <Mark-Cameron@boatingamerica.com>
Mark I just finished rebuilding my 1990 3.0 Mercruiser engine. It
is
mounted in the boat it came with a 1990 Invader. The problem I am
having is adjusting the
valves. This engine came with the DDIS. I know that the camshaft
and crankshaft
are set correctly because I marked these items. I had the head checked
and the
valves reworked. After putting the engine back together I adjusted
the
valves with what I thought were correct spec's, no lash and one full turn
of the adjustment nut. The boat starts up like a champ no problem.
I just took it to the water this
weekend to test it out, no problem starting but at WOT I could only
pull 3100 RPM's it just
didn't want to go. When I put the engine in neutral the engine has
no problem going to
4500 RPM except that it will miss or backfire on occassion. I believe
my problem is
the valve adjustment, could you give me the correct procedure's for doing
this. Our
if this is not the problem what is your bet.
Thanks Randy
It sounds like the timing is OK and that you have adjusted the valves
properly, the possibilities are
adjusting the valves too tight where the engine isn't breathing properly,
compression in the cylinders
are too low which would mean reboaring out the cylinders and new rings,
air cleaner not breathing
properly, fuel pump and or filter, engine alignment (since neutral
is running well), too much pitch in the prop,
(you should be no more than about 20 or 21 in pitch to reach 4000 max,
or 15 pitch at 4600 rpm). Trim
too high and weight to heavy in boat. It should be running at least
4400 rpm on a 19 pitch prop (for example).
Consult with a Mercruiser manual on exact proceedure of adjustment.
It involves a feeler gauge to set the space
and a good wrench to turn the crank shaft to check the proper clearance
and gasket. I haven't performed one in years myself,
thus I would advise a trip to the local marina or possibly a library
for a manual. Good luck and fill us in! -Mark
Subject: Torque steer
Date: Sat, 30 May 1998 14:12:30 -0400
From: addcmore <addcmore@interlog.com>
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Hi Mark,
Found your web page and I wondered if you have any advise or articles
you could suggest on how to overcome torque steer. We have an old family
fibreglass boat (Crestliner) which we just put an 85 Johnson on last
year, the original motor died. We are experiencing a strong pull
to the
right as we increase speed. My husband and brother say it is torque
steer but we are not sure what we can do about it. Any suggestions
would be welcomed.
Thanks, Dianne
There is an adjustable fin just above the prop on most outboard and
inboard systems. If your boat is drifting to the right stop the boat
at a nearby beach or ramp tilt the engine out and adjust the fin as few
degrees counter clockwise while looking up towards it. Run again and stop
and make fine tune adjustments until you are comfortable with the steering.
Subject: New engine power loss
Date: Tue, 26 May 1998 14:11:50 -0400
From: J Dructor <jdructor@citadelcomputer.com>
To: Mark-Cameron@Worldnet.att.net
Mark, I have visited your web page several times and have picked-up some
great tips (thanks!). Now I have a question of my own. I just
bought a
1998 SeaRay 175 bowrider with a 3.0 liter Mercruiser Alpha 1 stern drive.
I've only used the boat about six times and not for very long (in fact,
I'd
bet I haven't even used a full tank of gas yet). The problem I'm
having is
when I go from idle to 3/4 or full throttle - the boat hesitates and has
even stalled once. It doesn't happen all the time and it didn't happen
the
first couple times I used it. When it does occur, the boat usually
hesitates for a second or two (almost like it's not getting fuel), then
takes off and runs fine. By mistake, I had put $20 of 87 octane fuel
in
the boat the first time. Could this have caused any damage? (I learned
afterward 89 octane is recommended). Any ideas? Thanks, -Jim
The octane has little impact on hesitation. 89 at less than 2000 feet
above sea level is ideal and recommended in order to get cleaner fuel.
Above 2000 feet gas burns differently and doesn't need as much octane and
87 or in some cases even less is sufficient, (such as Lake Dillon in Colorado
that is over 5000 feet above sea level). However you also may have some
bad gas too. First fill your boat up with 89 (I recommend Marathon or Shell),
and when on the water after warming up and running a little try taking
off back to 3/4 of a throttle or so. If after your second or third fill
up you still have hesitation then what you have most likely is a timing
problem. It may need to be advanced a degree or two. Then since
yoru boat is brand new and under warranty I would recommend taking
it back to the dealer for a timing check and or adjustment. Good luck and
have a great summer boating!.
Subject: Help?
Date: Tue, 26 May 1998 00:43:10 -0500
From: "Eagle" <eagle@compu.net>
To: <Mark-Cameron@boatingamerica.com>
Dear Mark,
Seems to me your the guy i need to talk to.....I got an OMC from ARROW
Glass of Memphis.... it's a 16 ft. in board with a gm in-line 4 cyl....this
thing had set for about 6 years and the previous owner said it would
make a good palnter for the back yard... but since he wanted to leave
this thing with the house he was selling to me I said ok.... figured i
trash it for him.....while cleaning the barn on this property i found the
shop manual and started
toying with the idea of fixin it....well 6 months later and about 50 bucks
in parts and the dang things run like
a racing motor.....so i did it... i fixed it... i cleaned it.... i waxed
it.... and i put 4 new tires on the trailer ....but what now.... i think
maybe the water... but wait eagle has never had a boat before..... i'm
picking up alot from your site and just wanted to say thanks.... i need
the the help that you are sharing and i do appreciate it..... any further
tips on putting a restored boat in the water would greatly be appreciated....
thank you,
Eagle.compu.net
I have to say you ran into a bit of luck buying property and getting
a boat thrown in. Make sure before you float to read on and check out the
trailering tips and operating techniques. Above all make sure you have
the necessary life jackets, fire extinguisher, safety flag, horn, navigation
lights, bilge ventilation, flame arrestor and any other legal requirements
for safe boating in your state and then you are ready to head out, and
once out watch for the no wake and wake zones and respect distances from
other boats and you are ready. Let me know how your first time out turns
out! -Mark
Subject: Monterey 230 Open
Date: Sun, 24 May 1998 09:04:00 EDT
From: M535927 <M535927@aol.com>
To: Mark-Cameron@boatingamerica.com
Bought this boat last year and it ran fine all suimmer long. Took it in
for
its 20 hr check-up, get it home and it won;t run over 25,000 rpm. It stalls
out. To it back to the dealer/servicer and they can't look at for awhile.
The
engine is a 4.7 l. Mercruiser. Was told it could possiby be due to water
in
the fuel, but the engine doesn't overheat. Got any suggestions? Thanks!
It sounds like either too much weight on the boat (which is doubtful),
timing, clogged carb., dirty fuel filter, engine out of alignment, bad
fuel pump or a combination of a couple of the above. If it ran this way
right after your got it back from its check up I would call back and complain.
Otherwise until you get it in you can check to make sure your distributor
is not loose, check your fuel lines (in a very well insulated area), visually
inspect your carberator etc.. You shoudl be able to run at least 4000 rpm
(not what I think you mean 2500 rpm). -Mark
Subject: '94 17' Starcraft
Date: Wed, 6 May 1998 14:43:42 -0400
From: "Lowe, Randall" <rlowe@attscc.att.com>
To: "'Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net'" <Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net>
Mark,
First of all let me say thanks for the site. It is full of helpful info.
I
am a first time boat owner and have a few questions I would like to ask.
I
bought my first boat, a 1994 17' Starcraft with a Force 120, in Oct, 1996.
I have never had any problems with the boat, but I'm concerned about the
quality of Starcraft because they seem to be rare (I have never seen another
one). Do you have any information about the quality Starcraft boats.
Secondly, I live in Jacksonville, FL and use the ICWW (mostly for fishing).
I launched the boat in the ICWW with the plug out. I remembered right away,
re-trailered and pulled the boat out of the water. I pumped the water out
with the bilge pump and let it drain from the hull. Is there anything in
the
hull that will corrode? If so what should do to prevent corrosion inside
the
hull? And lastly, I am considering selling the boat and upgrading to a
larger boat. Is there a blue book for boats so I know how much it is my
boat
is worth?
Thanks!
Randy
Starcraft is well known in the midwest and parts of the south. I haven't
heard of anyting negative. The only concern about the incident without
the plug is that your engine and and sterring cables weren't submerged.
If they were then you should re-lubricate all the lines and fog the engine.
But if it was only the haul, aside from any possible metal screws, which
even then was probably another form of mostly non corrosive metal, you
shouldn't worry about it. As a precaution I would rinse out the bildge
area with good old fashion tap water. Last, there are blue books on boats,
check with your local marine dealer for specs, most sales reps are more
than happy to help out. -Mark
Subject: Motor Question:
Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 07:57:04 -0400
From: "Scott W. Knotowicz" <swknoto@kodak.com>
To: <Mark-Cameron@boatingamerica.com>
CC: <swknoto@kodak.com>
I have a question you might be able to help me with. I have a 1986
V6 4.3L
motor, Rochester 2V carburetor, and OMC Cobra outdrive. The problem
is
from a stopped position when I put it in gear and I push the throttle hard
the motor quits, if I ease it, it works fine. When it is in neutral
and I
push the throttle hard it responds fine. When I am running at any
speed
and hit the throttle it hesitates than goes? Any thoughts?
Thanks Scott
Its a simple fix, your engine timing is off. It should be advanced
a couple of degrees. Good time for a tune up. -Mark
Subject: Change trailer bearings
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 16:26:35 -0400
From: username <username@USCCMAIL.uscc.bms.com>
Organization: Bristol-Myers Squibb Company
To: Mark-Cameron@boatingamerica.com
Can you give me some brief instructions on how to change the bearing on
my trailer. I bought the right size 1 1/16 in. Is it easy to
do?
Thanks, Tom. My address is tbartolo@usccmail.uscc.bms.com
Jack up the trailer, remove the wheel, pull the bearing covers off,
unscrew the bearing nut (that holds the bearing in place). Pull the entire
hub off. Pull the rear bearing seal off (if equipped), (I pop it off from
the inside with the end of a hammer). Remove and replace the rear bearing
(making sure it is packed well). Put the hub back on and slip in the new
packed bearing on the front side. Make sure there is plenty of grease.
Tighten the bearing nut hand tight so the wheel has no play. Put the cover
on, then the wheel. Pull the trailer a couple of miles at slow speeds and
then re-check the tightness of the wheel, make sure there is still no play,
otherwise re-tighten the nut just to the point where the wheel has no play.
This is a must if you are repacking bearings with Bearing Buddies. Always
check and adjust bearings after each submersion, and at each stop on long
hauls. If you have Bearing Buddies, you will need much more grease, and
make sure your wheel has no play, not to over tighten the nut but to hand
tighten it and retighten it if the wheel has play after warming the bearings
up. I stress this again because if the wheel is loose the Buddies will
pop off. Bearing Buddies once seated are great for keeping water from getting
to the bearing keeping the grease pressure high enough so the water won't
enter the bearings on submersion. The only maintenance then is to check
the outer ring and make sure there is grease pressure by pushing in on
the ring. If not simply inject until the ring moves out slightly, be careful
not to over fill it. Good luck, its not as hard as it seems. -Mark
Subject: Anchors
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 15:52:22 -0000
From: "Karen Hill" <karen.a.hill@boeing.com>
Reply-To: <alias@mdc.com>
To: <Mark-Cameron@boatingamerica.com>
Hi Mark,
We are new boat owners and bought a "repo" boat. The boat was stripped
and
had no anchor. We went to the boat store and they had many anchors
to
choose from - all different weights.
We have a 1989 17.7 foot Galaxie, inboard/outboard, 190 horsepower boat.
Could you recommend the proper anchor weight for us to buy?
Thanks,
Karen Hill
Please reply to:
how_kar@msn.com
The weights may very depending on the type of anchor. Digger Anchors
should be 12 pounds for up to a 20' boat, 11 pounds for a Slip Ring Mechanical
Anchor, 15 pounds for a navy Anchor, and 16 pounds for a River Anchor.
I have (for example) a Slip Ring, also one of the most popular, which you
drop and leave out enough anchor line for about a 45 degree or more angle.
Then when you pull the line you inadvertently pull your boat to just over
your anchor and because of the 90 degree angle your anchor will not be
pulling into the ground but away from it straight up. A navy anchor digs
faster, and a river anchor is great for mud bottom lakes or in any river
situation. I have also seen anchors used for high wind areas that have
an underwater parachute within the line that helps keep the anchor from
dragging, (should be used in lakes with no current). Good luck and hopefully
this helps you out! -Mark
Subject: Marada Boats
Date: Sat, 25 Apr 1998 20:34:04 -0400
From: Sean Mohr <mohrs@mindspring.com>
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Hello Mark my name is Sean,
I was reading a old posting of yours from Oct. 96 in which you stated
that your own or owned a 94 Marada. I was wondering if your could
give me any
feedback on the Marada boats. I am looking at a 94 mx-3 marada that
is for
sale here in Atlanta and am trying to find out any pros or cons about this
brand
of boats.
Thanks
Sean Mohr
mohrs@mindspring.com
Atlanta GA
I still have that boat and love it. It has a Mercruiser out-drive with
the Chevy 4 cylinder, and seems to hold up well over the past four years
with all the trailering I do, (I am getting ready to change the tires on
the trailer later this year). Best of all it fits well in the garage at
just under 21 feet from prop to trailer hitch. As with any used boat it
is important to be able to test run the engine. Ideally you should be able
to run it on the water. Inspect the engine compartment for excessive exhaust
fumes (where you may need to repair or replace the exhaust manifold), check
the oil, the out-drive oil reservoir, check around the prop housing (with
the prop removed and look for signs of transmission oil leakage. Pull the
out-drive plug and drain just a tiny bit of transmission oil, it
should be a blue green color, and not a milky color (milky color represents
water seepage and could result in a costly repair). While doing this inspect
the skeg for any excess damage. Also while testing, during the running,
make sure the steering wheel turns easily, the throttle control operates
normally, and that all gauges have proper readings. An 18 foot should be
able to run about 36-38 mph full throttle with a 17" prop on a four cylinder,
or just about 40 with a speed prop (19"). Check around the hull for any
stress cracks, under hull damage, and pay close attention to the engine
area. If the unit checks out then you will have a good used boat.
Marada as a manufacturer is very good, I have personally talked with
reps. from the factory and they are very excited about their product
line and have made major modifications in their units over the past several
years, all of them positive. This year they are working on design modifications
on their 26 foot unit. You can check out their site at http://www.marada.com/index.htm.
-Mark
Subject: "TILTING THE MOTOR"
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 09:42:41 -0700
From: jts@ite.net (Jesse Tainatongo)
To: Mark-Cameron@boatingamerica.com
I AM HAVING PROBLEMS IN A 140 HP JOHNSON OUTBOARD MOTOR. I CAN'T
SEEM
TO TRIM THE MOTOR UP. IT TILTS DOWN BUT IT WON'T TRIM UP. IF
YOU HAVE
ANY IDEA OR SUGGESTIONS ON THIS, IT WOULD BE GRATEFUL. I AM THINKING
THAT IT MIGHT BE AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM, BUT THE BOOK THAT I HAVE ISN'T
CURRENT. THANKS,...J.T.
It is possible that it could be electrical, if it is sounding like
it is struggling to trim up then you are probably low on fluid. If there
is no response then it is probably a relay, faulty switch or possibly a
faulty pump, the latter being the most expensive. Good luck and keep
us informed of how it comes out! -Mark
Subject: Hydrofoils, trim tabs and weight distribution
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 15:24:50 -0400
From: Walter Koucky <wkoucky@pol.com>
Organization: saic
To: Mark-Cameron@boatingamerica.com
I have a 19' Maxum bowrider with a 5 litre and an Alpha 1. I put
a Land
& Sea Torque-shift prop on it to pull up large slaloom skiers.
Pulling
kids & tubers, I have the same problem staying on plane that you
addressed with Tim Conley. Have you heard of using a hydrofoil with
a
shifting prop? What about moving heavy items like the battery (or
two
batteries) to the bow? Why do designers put the battery, fuel and
all
the weight so for aft? Is it to minimize travel and agitation? Would
trim tabs be dramatically more effective in getting on plane at low
speeds? With the 5 litre and the shifting prop, getting on plane
is not
usually a problem, however, staying on plane at low speeds and with a
loaded boat is difficult.
A hydrofoil does help get on plane faster but it is difficult for nearly
all boats to maintain a speed right around wake speed without making constant
throttle adjustments. I try to maintain 15 to keep legal state speed limits
for small children on the tubes. As far as putting fuel and battery near
the or at the aft section helps keep the center of gravity towards the
back for quick take offs. If you throttle up with much of your weight forward
you will find the vessel will struggle to get up on plane because the bow
has trouble lifting, you are getting a plowing effect. Trim tabs along
with a hydrofoil will be the most effective, but tabs will drag the speed
down and require more thrust to maintain the same speed, it will induce
more stability over all though helping to maintain 15-18 without extra
throttle adjustments. The mixture of both is ideal, but results will very
with the hull design. The shifting prop is great for fuel efficiency and
thrust for pulling skiers. So if you are ready to shell out a few bucks,
try the hydrofoil first, then get ready for the big money (if still not
satisfied with the results) and ad trim tabs. Good luck and have a great
98' boating! -Mark.
Subject: First boat.
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 1998 13:36:06 -0600
From: Dassow Ryan <RDassow@ALLIEDCG.com>
To: "'Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net'" <Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
I am thinking about buying my first boat. I am looking used Bayliners/4
Winns boats around 19-21ft. Any words of wisdom? I will most likely be
buying from a private party, not a dealership. Also, I'm going to lease
a truck to pull this thing. The truck I'm looking at has a tow capacity
of 3600 lbs and a tongue weight capacity of 350. Should I just get a
class 2 hitch? Will this be enough? Any help would be appreciated!
thanks
I would suggest a Class 3 hitch for a 19' boat or more. Once you figure
fuel load along with all the other water toys and fishing gear you will
be over the weight a Class 2 can handle. Its always better for a little
extra if necessary. On the other hand of you are getting an 18' or less
you will be OK for a Class 2 and your vehicle will tow easier. Also make
sure your shocks are ready and you have the proper cooling for your transmission.
-Mark
Subject: OMC parts
Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 00:29:16 -0600
From: Charlie Luedeke <marinetk@athenet.net>
Organization: Marine Tech
To: "'mark-cameron@boatingamerica.com'" <mark-cameron@boatingamerica.com>
Mark; My name is Charlie. I operate Marine Tech in New London, WI. We are
a
OMC service dealer. We specialize in new and used Johnson and Evinrude
parts. We may not always be the cheapest, but we don't sell junk. We stand
behind every thing we sell. I know there are a lot of rip-offs out there
so
we try to be fair and do the best for our customers. I know this is a free
board and I don't expect you to post this. I'm not looking for free
advertising. I just wanted to drop you a note in case I could be of help
to
someone. If I can be of assistance to you at any time , give me a call.
I
am an OMC certified Master Tech, at least you will know I'm not a backyard
wanna-be mechanic. Look forward to hearing from you. Charlie, Marine Tech
920-982-4123.
I am always looking forward to hearing from technicians. Please
feel free to check our BBSs linkable from the front page anytime.
Many boaters stopping by Boating America may at one time or another
need your advise!. -Mark
Subject: boating on the Illinois River
Date: Tue, 03 Mar 1998 12:55:21 -0600
From: "M. Jason Cunningham" <m-cunningham@nwu.edu>
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Hello,
We were browsing through you site and noticed that you have no information
on boating in the marseilles pond of the river.
We love boating dropping our boat in that section of the river. It
is 27
miles long between the locks, has many accessible beaches for camping and
picnics. Also, the boating season on the river starts before and
ends
after the boating season on Lake Michigan because the weather is better.
We usually launch in Seneca, Illinois at the Hidden Cove Marina ($10.00
launch fee) on the weekends, but go to the public launch in Morris during
the weekdays. (The public launch is usually a 2 to 3 hour wait just
to
launch on the weekends, then the wait to take the boat out is long also.
Usually no wait at the Hidden Cove). The public launch is in Straton
park
off of route 47 in Morris. The Hidden Cove is the first right after
crossing the I- 170 bridge (from north to south) in Seneca.
Hope this information is useful to you. Thanks for providing the
info. If
you have any further questions about that portion of the Illinois River
please feel free to reply to this e-mail. We truly believe that the
Marseilles portion of the Illinois River is the best river section near
Chicago.
Thanks for the information, I will look into having upgraded in the
Illinois page, -Mark
Subject: Paddlewheel Productions
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 1998 06:42:13 EST
From: IWAHAY@aol.com
To: Mark-Cameron@boatingamerica.com
Hi there,
I am writing a few organizations that I am familiar with to ask a question
about a plan I have. I am rebuilding an old houseboat and fitting it with
paddlewheel power. I have spent many years as a professional photographer,
but
my real love is river travel.
My plan is to travel the rivers of the Eastern U.S. in my paddlewheeler
and
take photos of peoples boats for them, for a fee. This would allow me to
continue to make a meager living, while doing what I love most, traveling
rivers. If it works, I will propably never be a land lubber again.
I figure
that many people who pay thousands of dollars for those nice boats might
be
willing to spend a few bucks for a professional picture of it, in the water.
So what do you think? From your experience with recreational boaters, do
you
think this concept is feasable. I realize that most fishermen wouldnt be
interested, but I am looking more toward recreational boaters.
Any short message from you would be greatly appreciated. I plan to have
the
boat finished and on my way by May. I hope to hear from you soon.
Respectfully,
Jerry M. Hay
Terre Haute, Indiana
With proper marketing and the general drive to accomplish this goal,
it is possible. The best time to approach any boater would be during the
boating festivals. You may consider timing yourself to be in various places
when these festivals occur. Advertising in the form of brochures
or posting when you will be visiting marinas may also work well. You may
want to offer various packages, something for everyone's budget. Good luck
on your venture, and your houseboat. -Mark
Subject: mooring laws
Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 09:19:03 -0500
From: donald davis <blackwater@mindspring.com>
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Good morning,I'm trying to find out the regulations for mooring and or
storing a boat on private property which lies along the bank of the yellow
river in Lilburn, Gwinnett county. I've called the Army Corps of engineers
and Gwinnett County transportation , they did not know. My property has
a small pond and I've toyed with the idea of putting a small houseboat
on it for a retreat, outfitted with a sun-mar composting toilet, so there
would be no discharge of waste. Any advise would be appreciated. Thanks,
Donald
I would suggest checking with the Gwinnett Court House and see if your
neighborhood has any zoning restrictions. If they do you will probably
have to contact an attourney for legal options, (of course you will also
want to check with the state of Georgia, so it would probably be safe to
hire an attourney for the few dollars it would cost, it would be a good
investment before sinking 50 to 250 thousand for a houseboat). It will
also be costly to put the houseboat in the pond, unless it leads into the
river directly. Let me know what happens! -Mark
Subject: What is deadrise exactly
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 98 22:35:04 +0000
From: Randy Cleveland <rclevela@ichips.intel.com>
Organization: Intel Corp., Hillsboro, Oregon To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Hi Mark, Excellent page. I have been looking for a long time for a page
such as yours. Here's my question. I just purchased a 1998 Regal 1700 LSR
and one of the selling points that the salesman used was that with 24 degrees
deadrise that this boat has a superior ride. What exactly is deadrise and
it's relationship to ride? I am very happy with the boat, I was just curious
about this.
Thanks Randy
Deadrise is the measurement of the angle between the bottom of a boat
and its widest beam. A vessel with a 0º deadrise has a flat bottom,
high numbers indicate deep V shaped hul. In a nut shell, you have a deep
V, which cuts through the choppier water better than say a 0º which
would be a really flat surface and giving you the feel of every little
ripple in the water, and one foot waves or more a bone shaking ride. The
deep V tends to cut the waves and push the water a-part smoothing out the
chop. The deeper the angle the smoother the ride, however too much will
cause the boat to tilt to the side when the weight in the boat shifts left
or right of the center. 24 degrees is a good angle and also helps the boat
give a stable ride even when the weight shifts to the side. Plus you will
see nearly all manufacturers change the shape or angle measurement between
front and back of the hull to give you less chance of boat roll over in
the event the motor turns to one side at full throttle, and have the appearance
of a Boston Whaler design in the back 1/3 still providing a smooth ride
at 35 mph + speeds at proper engine tilt. Have fun in your new boat this
coming season! -Mark
Subject: Riveted Starcraft Boat
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 98 20:50:48 +0000
From: Eric Balders <ebalders@rohr.com>
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Mark, I have a Starcraft 18' Mariner. This summer I used it in the pacific
ocean. After about 2 trips approximately 30 Mi offshore, it began taking
on water. As it turns out, quite a few of the rivet heads have sheared
off. Do you have any suggestions? Is this boat fixable for use in this
environment? Thank you. Eric Balders <ebalders@rohr.com>
I have heard of rivet heads coming off as aluminum boats age, especially
around salt water. You need to dry dock the boat, and have a specialist
inpect it for possible repair. If the condition of the surface is good
(not dented, cracked, bent or has too much corrision) then it may be repairable.
My family has had the same aluminum row boats since the 60s which at this
minute are sitting upside down on a beach in Traverse City, Michigan and
probably being run over by snowmobiliers as you read this. To this date
I don't think they have lost a rivet yet. It would be worth repairing if
repairable. Good luck ! -Mark
Subject: Volvo Penta in a 1984 19 foot Bayliner
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 97 03:25:44 +0000
From: "Dick Walters" <weaseldick@otn.net>
To: <Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net>
Mark, I love your page! I have a problem that can't be fixed locally. My
Volvo has run perfectly until the day it quit. It was as if the key was
turned off. We changed the coil and points. The points lasted about 10
minutes. There was severe metal transfer on one side, so we changed the
points and condenser again with the same results. Nobody can fix it except
suggest switching over to electronic ignition. Isn't there a simple fix
out there? Dick Walters Yuba City, CA
DIck, it sounds like your rod that turns your distributor may be damaged
causing a irregular spin like a tire out of bounce, this may be why your
metal might be wearing more on one side. You will probably have to remove
the rod or gear that turns your distributor and inspect the gears and any
other components related to the shaft, inspecting for anything bent etc..
It will probably be cheaper to repair it rather then install fuel injection.
Fuel injection is more fuel efficient and gives you improved performance,
if you are up for the cost it may be worth your while! Good Luck and let
us know what happens! -Mark
Subject: honda outboard motor
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 97 23:51:41 +0000
From: aam@jps.net (albert marino)
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
sir,my honda outboard circa 1990, has a small break on the tip of the cavitation
plate.About a 1x2 inch triangular piece broke off when i backed into and
hit the garage wall. will this negatively effect performance and can it
be welded back on. I am relatively new at boating and your service has
been very informative and helpful. thank you sincerely for whatever help
you may give.
The cavitation plate is part of the Anode usually towards the rear of
the engine. It probably will not effect performance but may cause corrision
problems later. An aftermarket anode part (if that is what your unit uses
as a plate) will probably be cheaper than paying someone to weld it. I
have seen them in aftermarket as low as $ 9.95. However check with your
honda dealer for advice. You may want to visit their site at http://www.honda-marine.com
for more information. Skegs are also an item that gets broken while backing.
They can in almost all cases be welded. -Mark
Subject: Mercruise 188 gas engine
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 97 23:36:33 +0000
From: Charles Gaudet <Gaudetcj@EDnet.NS.CA>
Organization: Nova Scotia Department of Education and Culture
To: mark-cameron@worldnet.att.net
I enjoy your web page. I recently purchased a FIBREFORM cruiser with twin
188 mercruisers with alpha 1 drives. Can you tell me where I could get
litterature on the boat and on the engines. Thanks.
I checked and couldn't locate anything on Fibreform, but you can find
plenty of information on the engines at http://www.mercurymarine.com/
. They should be able to locate a Candian dealer near you for manuals.
-Mark
Subject: Trailering and OMC stern drives
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 97 03:39:05 +0000
From: JCole59946@aol.com
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Dear Mark,
I've been reading questions and tips on your web page and I can't resist
sending in a couple of my own.
My family has a 1985 21ft Chris Craft bow rider that weighs about 3,300
lbs dry and a tandem trailer that weighs about 700lbs. My Dad has a 92
Ford explorer with a 4.0 V6 and class III hitch and I've got an 89 Chevy
Caprice with a 5.0 V8 and a class III hitch. My Chevy has also got a heavy-duty
radiator, aux transmission cooler, load leveling air shocks, and the optional
rear axle ratio. My Dad says that neither of these vehicle are qualified
to tow this boat on the highway, but I argue that they can handle it. I've
never tried to pull anything this heavy before.
What do you think?? What can we do to improve our safety when towing??
Also, The boat is used in fresh water only and is stored high and dry in
a boat lift. At the end of each season we do all the maintenance stuff,
but this year when we changed the lower unit fluid in the intermediate
housing (OMC 800), instead of looking like gear grease, it came out looking
like chocolate milk.
Do we have a major problem on our hands?? I'd like to take care of it over
the winter before next season.
Please, Tell me what you think!!
Thanks,
John Coleman
Richmond VA
Towing with the Caprice is not a problem for 3500 pounds, I would check
with GM on the extra weight. You are probably closer to 4000 pounds and
possibly 4300 pounds figuring fuel and accessories. The transmission cooler
and shocks are a must for anything over 1000 pounds. Check with GM on the
max GVWR rating for your car. More than likely you are right at the limit,
not a problem for short hauls, but not recommended for longer pulls. If
your car is braking and running properly, not bogging down, then you are
probably OK. Be sure to inspect break pads and change the transmission
and engine oils regularly. The rating on the Explorer should be OK with
the cooler, but will probably bog down more while towing on hills. The
hitches for both vehicles are fine. If the transmission oil looks like
chocolate milk, then you have a leak somewhere in the unit. It could be
and most likely be a faulty seal somewhere in the outdrive requiring careful
inspection and replacement of the seals. You may also have a bad bearing
near the propellor that could require replacement. Most likely causes are
hitting the bottom and general wear and tear. Check with your local marine
dealer and parts and labor costs. Seals and bearings probably will be less
than 200-dollars, but the labor may be closer to the four figure mark.
Getting the leaks fixed early can save you a lot of money preventing a
transmission meltdown which would require the replacement of the outdrive.
-Mark
Subject: I/O winterization
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 97 03:43:35 +0000
From: "William R. Murphy" <bmurphy@kiva.net>
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Mark: Great page. I just purchased a '95 Rinker with the 3.0 Mercruiser
and the alpha one stern drive. For lack of a garage I have to store it
outside for the winter. Besides changing the drive oil and stabilizing
the fuel, what else needs to be done to this unit. Also, the steering seems
looser than what it should be. When idling and holding the steering wheel
straight the boat will serve back and forth quite a bit. The steering system
seems to be all hyrdraulic. I wondering if it needs bleeding and where
the valve would be.
I plan on winterization in November. I have stored mine outside in the
past but recently have cleaned out the garage and it stays just above freezing.
First: if the steering is loose but has no play, then you are fine, some
boats have power steering, but if it has play contact your Mercruiser /
Rinker Dealer for advice, bleeding should be done by a professional (or
at least step by step device). Otherwise may wind up with more play then
when you started. Two: only do this if you are finding play at high speeds,
or while out of the water see if the steering has any play. Three: the
drifting or swerving back and fourth is normal at low speeds when the trim
is all the way up in shallow areas. Install a depth sounder and keep your
trim in most of the way when possible, a depth sounder helps you to avoid
hitting the skeg on the bottom (once you realize your getting into shallow
water readings). This will reduce the swerving, my boat does the same thing
at idle and I have gotten used to it now by habbit, (but the trimming helps).
Winterization requires (at least as a precaution against freezing) the
draining and replacing the outdrive oil. But first pour fuel stable liquid
into the gas tank and fill it nearly full with plus type of high quality
gasoline. Then run a garden hose to your engine (you will need a special
engine attachment which pumps water into the intakes on the lower part
of your outdrive), start the engine with the hose running, and fog it by
pouring oil right into your carberator and letting the smoke from your
exhaust coat all the components inside your engine, I use a full quart
and pour it in little by little so the engine doesn' t stall, and then
completely stall it out as I near the end of the quart. Then drain your
block, if your block freezes in the winter then your will have damage to
your engine, possibly so extreme that you will have to replace it. There
are two plugs on the four cylinder located on the right underside of your
carberator manifold, one is actually on the engine wall, the other on the
manifold and are recognized by the brass type of plug. I drain mine everytime
I pull out of the lake. Drain this after the fogging process, then lower
and raise your outdrive to get the water out. Next shut off your ignition
safety switch (located near your throttle), and crank the engine several
times to push any remaining water out. I also suggest pulling your boat
around the block which will prevent puddeling (of course have your bilge
plug off). Then do your outdrive oil. The oil is thick so the process will
take a while. Use Quicksilver drive oil on Mercrusier, they make two types,
a standard mixture and a heavier mixture (check your manual for which type
to use) and will take about two quarts. You need to obtain a pump kit at
your marine dealer which screws into the top of the oil container, and
pump it in from the bottom of the outdrive. Once the oil flows out of the
top plug (at the top of your outdrive), then you cap the bottom plug and
then fill your reservoir in the engine compartment so you have a good flow
out of the top plug. Seal the top plug and level the reservoir and the
outdrive is safe for the winter and ready for spring. Be sure to watch
your reservoir in the spring as it will lower after the air bubbles in
the oil settle. Trim your engine down (to prevent the gimble bearing from
freezing in a trimmed positions) Disconnect your battery and store it in
your garage or place where it will be a little above freezing. Do not store
it in your house, acid fumes are unhealthy. Next drain your engine oil
and replace the oil filter (its easy and just like doing it in a car),
use 25W 40 Quicksilver which is recommended in most Mercruiser applications,
it will keep your warranty in tack. Lubricate your plugs on the left and
right side of your outdrive with quicksilver lubricants, and your throttle
and steering linkages with special lube 101. Last but not least re-tighten
your lugnuts on your trailer, and put it on jack stands to prevent tire
rot. Check your bearings or bearing buddies to make sure there is plenty
of lubrication. On bearing buddies you should be able to push down on one
side of the plastic bleeder tube which helps to repack the greese. If there
is no play then pump boat trailer grease into the plugs on the bearings
until the bleeder moves just a little, (this should be done everytime you
submerse or re-fuel on long trips). Too much will cause the grease to run
out and splatter your wheels. Repack the buddies every five years. Thats
about it, your are now ready for storage and spring. PS some people like
to inject anti-freeze into the engine for prolong storage in winter and
spring, it is important to get the right mixture of antifreeze in the system.
Check with your dealer on advice for your climate. Also if your engine
has a passive cooling system (found more in salt water ready engines) the
winterization process will be a little different. Have a great fall season
boating! - Mark.
Subject: prop torque
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 97 00:07:57 +0000
From: crs <crs@ameritech.net>
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Mark, is there a way to reduce or eliminate prop torque? If I let go of
the steering wheel at high speed the boat turns drastically to the right.
I have tried adjusting the the trim keel ( or what ever you call it ) on
the motor, but it has no effect. The motor is an 85 hp Merc outboard.
Anxiously awaiting a solution,
Carl
Too much trim can have an effect on Torque steering. Trimming in more
will help, plus look at weight distribution in the boat, (such as all passengers
or weight on one side), or if you are in a high cross wind, you will run
into steering pull. Choose a calm day with no wind, distribute the weight
evenly on one side, then take a run and adjust your trim or tilt, and your
keel. You should be able to find the happy medium. If all else fails, check
your engine and make sure it mounted level. -Mark
Subject: Boating Question
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 97 14:07:43 +0000
From: "Steve L." <justdoit@ih2000.net>
Organization: Computers Ect.
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Just to start off I'd like to say your page is a great help for other boaters.
I am a first time boat owner, and recently purchased a 1984 18' Bayliner
with a 4 cylinder Volvo I/O engine. The boat has a passenger limit of 8
people. The boat takes off faily good but sometimes dosent want to plane
out. When this happens the engine reves high but not much added speed occurs,
and furthermore it feels like it slips (like it catches off and on, almost
like the prop is slipping through the water in all honesty im not too sure
if this is common). Is there any way to figure out the problem myself?
Or have you ever had this problem before? I know someone who said it might
be a gear in the outdrive, but boats are not his specialty. I would appriciate
any help in this matter. Thanx a million, Steve. PS. on my first outing
i forgot the plug too. Luckily i was sitting by the dock!!! And on my second
outing i got lost (after dark on a winding river) and ran out of gas 300yards
from the ramp. What luck eh hehe.
I can think of a couple of possibilities. First make sure your trim
is set lower. If the trim is too high it will cavitate on turns and also
when the boat is loaded heavy in the front. If you are loading 8 people
on board, try a run alone and see if the problem still exists Second remove
your prop, check to make sure the teeth are not stripped, if they are,
replace the necessary parts and the prop. If it still slips, you whould
remove and inspect the outdrive, of course with the help of a good mechanic
and a manual (Chilton's is one good source available at most marine shops).
Good luck and see you on the lake! -Mark
Subject: Columbus boater needs info
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 97 00:09:58 +0000
From: Dennis Ellerbeck <DELLERBECK@worldnet.att.net>
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Hi Mark, First, want to say your page is just the greatest boating page
on the net! I've bookmarked it and visit often. Was wondering if you could
give me some info. We would like to boat on the Muskingham River, maybe
go thru the locks down to the Ohio River. Can you tell me about how deep
the river is? We have a 24' Bayliner Ciera Cruiser (Toy For Two - so be
sure and honk if you ever see us at Alum Creek or wherever). Also, what
would be the closest place to put the boat in at? We did see one place
(private, I think it cost $5 to launch) near Zanesville. Do you know of
any good ramps (considering our boat size)? How far on the Muskingham from
Zanesville can you boat before you come to the first lock? How's the fishing
on this river? Anything else you are able to tell me, I'll sure appreciate.
Thanks for your time, and happy, safe boating!
Sincerely,
One of Toy For Two's Crew...
Carol
The Muskingum River is Ohio's only navagable inland waterway (fully
inside the state) where all its locks, some dating back to the early 1800s
are still hand cranked. There are 11 locks starting with Ellis (just south
of Dresdin and about every 5 - 10 miles apart all the way south to Marietta.
You can launch on the river free at Riverside Park in Zanesville (south
of Ellis which is shallow anyway), and start locking at Zanesville at the
5th St. Bridge. The park office is at this lock and you can purchase an
annual pass for $35 (as of last year). The locks are only open on weekends
and I would suggest calling the ODWC to make sure all the locks are open
before venturing out. The river is 5 feet deep on average and shallower
below the locks. Check with each lock master for directions around shallow
spots. An early Saturday Morning start can make the round trip possible
in two days, lock operaters radioed ahead to the other lock operators the
last time I made the trip so the locks were set to raise and lower us at
the time we arrived reducing locking delay time. Locks south of Ellis include
Zanesville, Philo (about 7 miles south of Zanesville), Rockerby Lock, McConnelsville/Malta,
Stockport (bat capitol of southeast Ohio) and Beverly many with picnic
facilities. Fishing is excellent, a fish caught near the Beverly locks
was used in the movie Grumpier Old Men II. I was out in Alum Creek Thusday
evening checking out the TNT competition weigh-in, and will probably be
out again a week from Sunday, if I see your boat I will be sure to wave!
-Mark
Subject: Boating on Torch Lake!
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 97 23:51:29 +0000
From: Carpenter <Carpenter@bbs.lethal.net>
Organization: Lethal Online
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Hi Mark!
I grew up on Torch Lake, so I really enjoyed reading about your trip through
the Chain of Lakes. The Clam River Dockside has great burrito's, don't
you think!
My husband and I bought a 1985 27 ft. Sea Ray Sundancer this year. We've
decided to name it "Broke Again!", because the previous owner unfortunately
didn't know how to maintain the engines. We've almost worked all of the
bugs out so we can relax again.
We are looking forward to being at the Elk Rapids Harbor for Harbor Days
the first weekend in August. It's a great time. I really believe they have
the best fireworks in Northern Michigan. This festival ranks right up there
with the National Cherry Festival in Traverse City (only on a smaller scale).
You ought to try it sometime!
If you know of any great boat trips on the Great Lakes, let me know.
Thanks!
Tracey Carpenter Williamsburg, MI
P.S. Another fun "Chain of Lakes" trip starts in Oden, Michigan and follows
through to Cheboygan through the Crooked River.
I live for a buritto at Dockside ! My kids also like the little indoor
shuffleboard game!. Being a formal resident of Birch Lake I have been to
several Harbor Days which do have great fireworks!. However this year I
won't be able to get up there until August 18th, a little late for the
fest, but I still like those sunset cruises to the Old Mission Lighthouse
Point (well away from the shoals though), and may head out to Northport
if the lake is calm. Last year I made the Cherry Festival, Blue Angles
had a great show out on the west bay!. Glad to ehar that you have all the
bugs out of that 27 footer!. Sea Ray makes a great line, but maintenance
is a must!. I highly recommend the Crooked Tree - Burt Lake etc.
based on what I have heard and read. I plan on running part of that chain
while I am up there. Also for boating on a smaller scale the Intermeidate
Lake - Wilson Lake etc. is also great, but a little shallow during dry
seasons. The scenery is spectacular along with the fishing. Thanks for
writing and please keep in touch and let me know how things are up there
near T.C.. -Mark
Subject: info Date: Thu, 24 Jul 97 04:56:11 +0000
From: dr <drudling@iaw.on.ca>
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Hi Mark,
I have written before and find your advice very helpful, todays question
is what is your opinion on these dolphins, hydrofoils? I guess there are
many different names for them , the fins on the engines lower end. I have
a 20 foot bow rider f/g, 4.3L omc, cobra out drive with trim/tilt, what
do you think if i put them on my boat? what do they really do? Have heard
many different storys about them and would really like to hear yours.
thanks Dave.
I have run a boat with a hydrofoil, and found that it helps to plane
at a slightly lower speed, but has less effect at high speeds. The main
benefit is the ability to gain speed quicker since you will plane around
13-15 (speeds may very among brands of boats and hydrofoils) and power
up faster since the engine isn't working as hard to plane. It also improves
handling at slower speeds and reduces porpesing (the bobbing up and down
usually at speeds below the 30 when trimmed to high). Its an inexpensive
way to give a little kick to your performance and different hydrofoils
will very, some cost as little as $24.95 and others (which claim a better
holeshot on a speed prop and better turnging at higher speeds) will reach
into the $ 100 plus range. If you are into heavy turning while pulling
a tube or into a little more performance, and have been boating for at
least two years (where most boaters start to get the real feel of performance)
then you may want to give it a try!. -Mark
Subject: Boating Date: Thu, 17 Jul 97 07:58:29 +0000
From: pcozzi <pcozzi@eagle.lhup.edu>
Organization: Lock Haven University
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Hi I have a boat, we have had it for one year. It is a runaboat with a
80 horsepower engine. Last year it ran great this year it is not getting
the speed it use to. Any advice to get more speed? Thank You! James email
me at jcozzi@hotmail.com
I would recommend using plus octane gas, check your plugs, timing etc.
propellor, and also your carry-ons. Some people tend to collect things
on their boat which wind up weighing things down and reducing your speed.
Last but not least the weather can have a slight effect of a mile and hour
or two, more humid air intaking in the carberator reduces speed and less
humid cooler air (which is a more dense air) will give you maximum performance.
This is what I have noticed over several years in boating, ie. northern
Michigan I run about 42 in 75 degree weather and Columbus, Ohio I max at
about 39 in 90 degree weather on a four cylinder. Good luck and have a
great summer on the water ! -Mark
Subject: 1958 Johnson 18HP SEAHORSE
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 97 22:22:03 +0000
From: rmeyer <rmeyer@inna.net>
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Hi, My DAD left me his Johnson SeaHorse! It is in near new condition! I
don't plan on running it but, plan on finding a boat from the same time
frame or similar style to match it! I was hoping to find antique outboard
club members on the net. I am hoping you could put me in the right direction.
I am also attempting to find a shop manual on the motor. Any help would
be appreciated.
Chris Meyer
I haven't heard of such a site, but sounds like a good idea. If anyone
can run a copy off for Chris please e-mail him! Most repair shops that
have been around for years and years usually can get access to manuals,
and in some cases you may be able to locate a Chilton's manual at a local
library in a county that has lakes and navigable rivers. -Mark
Subject: SEAMASTER ENGINES
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 97 14:21:52 +0000
From: "R. Danz" <DANZRH@NAVAIR.NAVY.MIL>
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
MARK. I'm looking to buy a 28 Bertram which was repowered with Twin Seamaster
534Ci fords. I don't know anything about that engine except that it is
heavy truck engine. Do you know anything about them and where I might get
parts, manuals etc.... And what should I look for to determine age and
condition. I understand that in the truck application it has a 7.3 to 1
compression ratio. What does that relate to in PSI. I think it is (7.3*14.7)
- 14.7 = 92 psi. The name plate on the engine says 1985. It has a fresh
water cooling system and all brass manifolds and risers. PLease email me
back at DANZRH.NIMITZ@NAVAIR.NAVY.MIL
That compression ratio sounds good for an 8 cylinder, it would be around
9.0 to 1 or higher on a four cyclinder. I would suggest checking the exhaust
manifold for leaks and corrision, if it is a fresh water engine this would
be a proper indicator for corrision. More corrision indicates more running
and or salt water running. Check the plugs, points etc. If possible take
the water pump off where you can peak at the cylinder wall area. If chipping
is noted then engine trouble may be a problem soon. As far as parts and
manuals contact their website at www.bertram.com
. -Mark
Subject: Help!!! Date:
Sun, 15 Jun 97 13:15:46 +0000
From: "Rudish, Charles" <crudish@cambridgeoh.com>
Organization: CP
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Mark, Maybe you can help. I am about to go up to Toledo to sit for my Inland/Great
Lakes OUPV Master's license. Assuming I get through that, I'll take the
International test, hopefully at the same time. I'm new with this internet
stuff, so I'm not real familure with where to search for this information,
but I am interested in using my license to do boat transfers up and down
the ICWW. Though my license will cover up to nmt 25 gross ton vessels,
I'm not really interested in doing Tug or charter fishing work, I don't
have the experience for that anyway, but I do have ICWW experience, lived
there and done that. To whom do I contact about this? Would you add this
to your web page, or get back to me with suggestions? Chuck Rudish crudish@cambridgeoh.com
I dug around and found a little about the OUPV at http://www.chapman.org/uscg.html
. I would recommend getting the names of companies that provides the transfers
and contact them via fax or e-mail. Good luck on your course! See ya at
Senaca Lake sometime! -Mark
Subject: High five propeller
Date: Wed, 28 May 97 02:00:53 +0000
From: "Alan & Vicki Myers" <amyers@wf.net>
To: <Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net>
Mark, I purchased a Crown Line 176ss last year. It is a 1995 with a Mercruiser
3.0LX / Alpha One stern drive. Part of the package was a High Five (Mercury)
five blade stainless 17 pitch prop. The prop offers up an outstanding hole
shot, but my problem is that it over-revs this engine. Max recommended
rpm for the 3.0 at wide open throttle is 4,800, which I exceed below full
throttle. My question is this. What SS prop should I buy? The OEM aluminum
is a 19 pitch. The Michigan Wheel ads recommend a 3 blade 14 1/4 X 17.
(They say with a cupped blade prop you should step down 2" in pitch.) I
was fortunate enough to get a used Michigan Wheel 14 1/4 X 17 loaner from
a local shop, and the over-revving problem persisted. No other loaners
are available in the area. I can't afford to gamble on buying the wrong
prop. (The one I have now lists at $590.00) Also, is there anyone out there
who would like a good deal on a High Five SS propeller? That would sure
help me to purchase the one I need. Thanks, Alan Myers amyers@ wf.net
The specs. are right, you shouldn't be over-revving on your engine.
4800 rpm is about the right rpm range for the 3.0 and should have you doing
around 37-40 on a 17" prop. If you are at lower speeds you may need to
consider a 19" prop. If you are doing better than 42-44 you are OK, (you
must be running a light load). A possible throttle linkage adjustment (depending
on your model) should allow you to prevent the throttle from going above
4800 rpm. I have a 3.0 and run a 19" Michigan Prop. I reach about 40 with
a full fuel tank at about 4600 rpm. I would not go above a 19" prop or
you could cause excessive wear on your engine. It sounds like the high
five might be the problem. I also recommmend an aluminum prop over stainless
for shallow running. It saves your drive shaft from a hard jolt when you
strike an object. They are also in the $120 to $160 range. If you run into
many objects, there are composits available at half the cost of aluminum.
The cost of two aluminums are about one stainless. You can have one for
skiing, say a 17" and one for speed or 19". Good luck in your prop hunt!
-Mark
Subject: Looking for information
Date: Sun, 25 May 97 23:43:44 +0000
From: "ladylee" <ladylee@cyberportal.net>
To: <Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net>
Mark,
We obtained a mahogany boat a few years ago that we are anxious to find
information on. It is called a Borum. It was manufactured in Jacksonville,
FL in approximately 1958. We found an ad for it in an old boating magazine,
but haven't been able to learn any more about the company. It has fins
like a 1958 Plymouth. The bow has a small hatch and it is made so that
you could sleep under there, with cushions and a removeable seat. There
is a flip-down mahogany hatch in the stern that makes the boat look like
an inboard.
If any one can tell us anything about this boat, please e-mail me at ladylee@cyberportal.net.
Thanks
Subject: 4.3 Ltr motors 175hp verse 190hp
Date: Wed, 14 May 97 07:04:42 +0000
From: Trevor Langston <Trevorl@uit.net>
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net CC: trevorl@UIT.NET
Mark, I just purchased a 1995 Sunbird Corsair 180SL with the OMC 175hp
4.3 ltr V6. What I can't figure out is what is the difference between my
4.3 and some of the newer boats with the same 4.3 only they are rated at
190hp. Is it because I have an OMC Cobra motor and out drive. All I know
is my motor has a 2b carb and the new Cobra SX Volvo stern drive. After
reading several of your E-mail letters I was hoping you could tell me how
I can up grade to the 190hp motor or is it at all possable. Please E-mail
me at trevorl@uit.net I look foward to hearing back from you. Also how
can I get a service or repair manual for that motor and out drive. Trevor.
There have been improvements to many engines over the last few years;
electronic ignition, change of gear ratios, fuel injection, etc.. Its not
unusual to see horsepower increases. The least expensive way to increase
high-end is propellor change. A speed prop will give you a little more
high end by two or three miles per hour. The other extreme is a new engine
or outdrive with a different gear ratio. If you are really experienced
you may be able to relpace the carb with a modified unit. On the other
hand I know a few lakes with a 180 HP limit, and would settle for a V6
with a 180 or less rating just to legally run them. Good luck on your decision
! -Mark
Subject: (no subject)
Date: Mon, 12 May 97 02:44:58 +0000
From: jsg22@frognet.net
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Hi Mark My family and I took a tip from your page and visted Senecaville
Lake today . This being one of our spring lake scouting missions, we decided
the lake would be a great summer time destination.
Since your expertise seems to involve all aspects of trailer boating, I
have a mechanical operation question for you . My boat has a 3L Mercruiser
stern drive unit that is one year old . Today while making our final run
on the lake, I noticed a power loss while cruising at 40 mph. The loss
in power was not related to throttle control position . On the way back
to the ramp, I experimented with different throttle positions with the
result of sluggish performance I had not experenced earlier in the day.
Once we were in the no wake zone by the ramp the engine had no trouble
maintaining idle . My questions are : -Is this symptom common with this
unit ? -Is it possible the carburetor became flooded when the boat went
over a hard wake at 40 mph? -Is the problem likely to reoccur? Next week
we are taking it out on local waters minus the kids to see if we can get
a better feel for it. -Finally, am I making something out of nothing?
Thanks Fred
I haven't heard of any power problems with this unit, (I have the same
type). Several factors could be present, the hard wake could have thrown
the timing off which is the result of an easily movable distributor, check
to make sure it is tight. It could be where the kids were sitting on the
boat, if they were in an open bow it could cost you about three or four
miles per hour on the high end. The winds here in Ohio have been strong,
I have noticed a three mile per hour increase going downwind, and about
a two to three mile an hour decrease upwind. Also check the fuel filter,
flame arrestor and throttle linkage to make sure there isn't anything loose
or access slippage. You also may have a little water in the tank (if it
was stored outside over the winter it could be a factor). I also recommend
Shell Plus gas, a little more expensive, but a slightly better grade can
help reduce the chance of a clogged fuel filter. Hope you enjoyed Seneca
Lake, I should be making a run there again sometime in June, see you on
the water ! -Mark
Subject: Mercruiser 3.0l
Date: Fri, 2 May 97 04:42:35 +0000
From: Brian Allgood <agood@mindspring.com>
Organization: MindSpring Enterprises, Inc.
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
I have a 1993 Ebbtide 18' bowrider with the Merc 3.0l stern drive. At WOT
i get 4600 rpms at 42 MPH. I am turning a 19 pitch aluminum prop. She has
a great hole shot and seem to take those rpms without a struggle. I would
like to see more speed in the are fo 50 MPH. Do you know if there are any
performance modifications for this engine? Does anyone make thru transom
exhaust and what would a 4 cylinder sound like? Thanks for the info Brian
That sounds like the right speed for 4600 rpm. The only thing I would
consider would be the run the proper fuel with a step up in the octane
and make sure the engine is properly tuned up. You should gain an extra
mile an hour or two, but 50 would require either a larger prop (which may
bog the engine down) or a more expensive modification to the engine. There
are manufacturers that produce a thru the transom exhaust but you rarely
find them on four cylinder engines. Some states are now requiring a quiet
running engine to take effect in the next three years. So a loud engine
will soon become illegal (with the exception of the grandfather rule, check
with your local division of watercraft for more information). -Mark
Subject: Re: Hi,
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 97 03:58:30 +0000
From: drudling@iaw.on.ca (dave)
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Hi,
Thanks for the fast reply, I am at your page a few times a week, and love
to read all the great storys and tips. The Oliver sea hawk has a 4.3 liter
OMC with the cobra out drive, the boat is an 87, the hull is in great condition.
the only thing that is wrong with it is the floor is rotten from being
soaked, the foam in the hull is completly soaked as well. I have redone
a few outher floors in some smaller boats, that adds alot of extra pounds
to the boat. I have also spoken to outher boaters at our club and they
to have had simular problems over time. A few of the people say to take
it all out and to cut and shape home extereior styrofoam to fit the hull
as it is much more water proof, I myself think the chemical marine floataion
foam would add more strenght to the intire hull as it takes the complete
shape and would be one solid piece.
I would really like to here your opinion on this matter.
Thanks Dave.
I agree on the marine floatation foam. It would make your hull stronger
and prevent the possiblilty of a fully submerged boat in the event of an
incident (god forbid). I have several friends that have also replaced their
floors. It is almost like a partial rebuild. Carpeting can also trap moisture
and the best preventative maintenance is to dry the boat out after every
run in the rain with a wet vac, and let it sit in direct sunlight where
it can catch a breeze on a dry day. In my case with the kids are jumping
in and out of the boat dripping water everywhere I have found that plenty
of heavy fluffy towels can reduce the amount the carpet soaks in helping
to reduce mold and mildew build up which can eat away at a wood floor.
I even put large bags around the exposed seat cushions during rainy weather.
This prolongs the cushion life by years. Keep a good mooring cover on the
boat when not in use and get inside storage if at all possible and your
boat will look new and have less floor rot plus less mold build up for
years and years. -Mark
Subject: San Diego Trailer Boaters Group
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 97 13:40:01 +0000
From: Robert Beckner <rbeckner@sdcoe.k12.ca.us>
Organization: San Ysidro Middle School
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Dear Mark:
How about taking a vacation to San Diego CA? We have 10 boat ramps free
for the public to use. We currently have purchased our first real boat
and have many good stories and referral capabilities. Please let your readers
know they have a friend in the southwest. I currently organize a floatilla
in San Diego for the Fourth of July.
We have a 1995 Maxum 2700 SCR on a triple axle trailer. I also have good
advice about new boat purchase deals; what to watch out for!
Visit me at: http://geociteis.com/baja/3424 PS. I once forgot my plug,
however my bilge alarm went off within seconds and the boat was still on
the trailer. All's well that ends well.
The next time I stop by Lake Havasu will be sure to run a few extra
miles and check it out ! -Mark
Subject: cedar point
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 97 13:41:21 +0000
From: KHOMBU@aol.com
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
mark, we're new to boating thanks for the boaters home page we have a 17'
four winns horizon Qx with 130 hp io/ob. we would like to take a trip to
cedar point from monroe area on lake erie. do you think this is possible
or wise? thanks steve
Lake Erie is one of the most unpredictable lakes to boat on. The famous
Noreasters (winds that pop-up from the east can be quite and experience
for the novice boater (unless you like steep 5-7 foot swells). It is not
impossible but not recommended. On the other hand, if you are like me and
would attempt it anyway, take the long way, hug the shoreline, have good
charts to warn you of the shoals, follow a larger boat and keep a sharp
eye and an ear on the weather and wave heights with a marine radio. A straight
shot would be about 35 miles by the time you round Ottawa, or about 60
miles hugging the shoreline (but you would get to see Toledo!). A straight
shot would only be best in the early morning while the weather is calm.
Be flexable so you will be out on the lake when the conditions are right,
and not crossing on a forced schedule that may be in rough weather. If
possible plan the time with a weather map, boating when no cold fronts
are in the area, or spread out isobars representing calm winds. Being a
little analytical can give you a safe and calm ride. After all those rollercoasters
at Cedar Point the last thing you need will be choppy conditions! -Mark
Subject: 4 cycle vs 2 cycle OB / Mold
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 97 04:32:49 +0000
From: Ken/Linda Chambers <kenchamb@open.org>
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net CC: WOetting@aol.com
Mark: Your thoughts on #1 will be appreciated... Thanks... Ken C.
1. Any info on 2 cycle vs 4 cycle outboards in the 70-90 hp, maybe higher?
Reliability? Advantages & Disadvantages? Where to get evaluations &
comparisions? Brands? Fuel consumption?
If it helps, I'm almost ready to purchase a 19 ft Arima Sea Ranger for
fishing tidal rivers, bays & ocean (wind & current). Weighs 1650
lbs plus 48 gals fuel, gear and 2-3 people.
I used a Honda OB several years ago and it was very quiet and smooth -
owner said they were great motors.
2. RE the 8-26-96 question about mold inside boat. After a fishing trip,
I use "DRI-Z-AIR" canister and pellets - they absorb the moisture out of
my 16 ft fishing runabout, which is always WET after a fishing or crabbing
trip. I put the canister inside a 5 gal plastic bucket to contain spillage,
put the bucket on the boat floorboard, then put my mooring cover on. The
canister and 3-4 months supply of refill pellets costs about $10.
3. Tip for saltwater boaters - clean your zincs - wire brush works fine.
Thanks for the tips!. DRI-Z-AIR is a great idea. I have been using them
for a while, and its very helpful in humid climates. On the four stroke
verses two stroke, the four strokes are much cleaner and with strict pollution
laws the U.S. Gov. has passed on to boating manufactureres the four stroke
is here to stay. It does run smoother but the pick up is poorer then a
two stroke. Some manufacturers have developed a two stroke fuel injected
model for more precise fuel injection reducing fuel loss and pollution.
But as a skier I prefer a strong outboard two stroke as far as outboards
go. For economy and speed the four stroke is much better especially at
high end performance. I talked to a Honda Marine dealer here in Central
Ohio and apon inspecting the motor it is basiclly a marine modified honda
civic engine turned sideways. A little more expense, but less pollution,
better economy, and its like maintaining a car engine and as reliable if
maintained regularly. I would recommend back issues of Trailer Boating
Magazine for recent comparisions. -Mark
Subject: Glassport RX 165
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 97 00:47:44 +0000
From: Donald_Trinko@email.whirlpool.com (Donald Trinko)
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Hi Mark; I have a 1991 Glassport RX 165 ( 16.5' ) with the Mercruiser 3.0L.
I have had the boat for several years but I don't see Glassport advertised
at all. Do you know any thing abought them? I have a 19" Aluminum propeller.
With one person at WOT I turn 4800 rpm at 39 mph. With 3 people I turn
4500 rpm and 37 mph. I checked the speedometer with a GPS and it appears
to be very close. I have talked to the Marina abought a SS propeller. He
tells me to leave it the way it is and I would not get much in performance
gain anyway. I see some newer boats with this same power doing in the mid
40's. I realize that hulls are not all designed for maximum speed. Would
a SS propeller help much? What abought electronic ignition? Are there any
other ways to improve performance without spending a lot of money? Thank
You Don Donald_Trinko@email.whirlpool.com
The speed is about right for your current prop. A prop with a higher
degree of pitch is about the only option you have. It should give you an
extra three or four miles per hour. The hull design is about the only thing
that woudl hold back the speed. Electronic ignition may improve fuel economy
but not have much effect on your top end with your current prop, but may
wind your engine at the same high RPM with a higher pitch prop, possibly
hitting the mid 40s. Most likely it will be in the lower 40s. -Mark
Subject: tip
Date: Wed, 5 Mar 97 23:20:44 +0000
From: drudling@iaw.on.ca
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net, it's, called, water, line, stain, remover
Hi,
just read the note from parman2@aol.com, he has a small oyster bed on the
hull. I to had a simular problem, I found the putty knife kinda scratched,
went to the local marina "man" and he showed me the product to use. AURORA
co. and it's called waterline stain remover, I found it very efective,
I think the new hull paint thats out now would be something to try.
see ya on the water!!!!!
Thanks for your input! -Mark
Subject: Tow vehicle
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 97 15:37:40 +0000
From: DHook65857@aol.com
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Mark:
Just found your page and feel I've been saved!! My first mate and I bought
new an 18' open bow Crownline last summer and spent most of the summer
going to the same lake here in Omaha, NE because I'm concerned about the
vehicle I use to tow the boat. We use a 1984 Crown Vic that didn't come
equipped w/ a tow package but I added a transmission cooler and class III
hitch and lighting package. It gets the job done but I'm concerned that
going out of state, say 500 miles or so, may take a major toll on the Crown
Vic's 5.0L. I've also considered adding overload springs to help the steering.
The question I have, would it be better to just buy a p/u and, if so, do
I need 2 or 4 wheel drive and a 1/2 ton or 3/4 ton. I believe the boat
and trailer only weigh about 2700#'s. When we bought the boat, the dealer
said the Crown Vic would be plenty but of course, he wanted to sell the
boat. Same with the hitch dealer. I checked the car's manual and it wasn't
much help. So I thought I'd ask you and your readers for a little objective
advice. And you're right on the subject of first putting the boat in the
water. We have three lakes close by here and this section of the Missouri
River is the most boated area, according to our local Coast Guard. We took
our maiden voyage on a lake that has a no-wake rule so we got an awful
lot of dirty looks from the sail-boaters when we pulled up to the ramp
with ours. Had five or six people come up right away to tell us we were
at a no-wake lake. Which was our purpose. We just wanted someplace to practice
putting in the boat and getting used to how to handle it before we went
out on one of the larger lakes. We found that sail-boaters are very friendly
people...for the most part. But a little common sense and a lot of patience
later, we had no trouble at all getting it launched. Until a large sail-boat
lady tried to launch hers right on top of ours and made several disparaging
remarks about power boats being "in the way". Oh well, it was a great summer
anyway and am looking forward to spring and trying out the river. Thanks
for a great page and any advice on tow vehicles would be greatly appreciated.
You are in goon shape on the Crown Vic. It is one of the few cars that
are still safe for towing. If your car is hard to control and has extra
bounce while towing then I would consider improvements in the suspension.
The transmission cooler and overload springs were also a good move, almost
mandatory. The Ford 5.0 litre engine is fine for long trips. My full size
conversion Ford E-150 also has the 5.0 and I haul my boat all over the
eastern U.S.. A pick up is great for towing as well, but I would always
recommend a 3.4 ton and four wheel drive for a future purchase, this allows
you to upgrade your size of boat (when you find yourself outgrowing your
18 foot). -Mark.
Subject:
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 97 14:07:03 +0000
From: "jeff miller" <miller@netonecom.net>
To: <Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net>
Dear Mark My husband and I received a free "Go Boating" February Issue,
in the mail a few days ago, this is how I found you on the net. We have
enjoyed your boaters stories and all the information you have given us.
We are from lower Michigan and have enjoyed some of the lakes that are
on your list: Mullett Lake (our favorite), Higgins Lake, Lake Charlevoix
and good ole Traverse Bay. There is a great article in the magazine on
Hassle-free Launching, loading and towing your boat. I think all boaters
should read this before they head out for their first boat trip of the
season. We have been launching our boat for years, but it seems like the
first time out into the season, our captain's crew calls "Mutiny". We have
a small 19ft.openbow SeaRay and have enjoyed many hours with our children
on the waters of Michigan. We are now ready to move up in size to about
a 22ft. closed bow. We have found a small lake for day trips near our home
town called, Chippewa Lake in Mecosta County. A nice lake for skiing, tubing,
swimming, and some fishing. There is a new boat ramp but the parking lot
is sometimes full, so a person would not want to launch their boat until
they are sure they will have a parking space for their tow vehicle. It's
been great visiting your site and we will be sure to come back.
I love Michigan boating and can never get enough of it. I have found
parking to be tight, but that happens almost anywhere on a weekend. Be
sure to visit the Michigan page on Michigan's inland lakes, it also have
a link to every class of boat ramp on all lakes in Michigan. I will have
to check out Chippewa Lake, it sounds like a great retreat from the choppy
bays. Have a safe and happy boating in 97! -Mark
Subject: web page
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 97 16:51:13 +0000
From: Just493@aol.com
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Dear Mark, Just wanted to say thanks for a great boating page dedicated
to trailer boaters!!! I live near Columbus and have been a trailerboater
for 18 years now. I have a 25' Doral which my family (wife, 2 kids &
dog) use extensively for weekend and week long cruising. I love trailerboating
and wouldn't trade it for a big boat and slip at Lake Erie for anything!.
We've been as far south as Tellico Lake in TN and north as far as Parry
Sound on Georgian Bay. Two years ago we traversed 400 miles of the Cumberland
River. We are planning a trip this year to Canada, possibly the Trent Severn
Waterway or the Rideau Canal. I am a memeber of the Columbus Power Squadron
and I'm currently teaching the trailerboating portion of the Public Boating
Course. I intend to inform the class of your great web page!
I would like our local Squadron to consider setting up its own web page.
If you have any suggestions or helpful hints, i would appreciate it.
Thanks again,
Mike Justus "Twins Tuition"
I am the same way Mike (about trailerboating) I have towed to lakes
all over the midwest and have visited many in the southwest. One Sunday
I trailered to three different lakes and a river. I also trailer frequently
to Alum Creek Reservoir in the Galena / Coumbus area (I am just five minutes
from there and Griggs /O'Shaughnessy), maybe I will catch you one of these
days here in Ohio!. Thanks for the class info. plug! Let me know when you
get your site up and I will link it in our links page, have a safe and
great summer boating for upcoming '97! -Mark
Subject: Front wheel drive on ramps
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 97 07:09:29 +0000
From: Roly Kilpatrick <rkilpatr@uoguelph.ca>
Organization: University of Guelph
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
I'm not yet a boater, but plan to become one this summer. The restoration
of a 17-foot mahogany Century Resorter inboard is nearing completion in
my garage. According to an old Century brochure, it will weigh 1700 pounds
- say 2,000#, loaded and ready to go. Add a trailer to this, for a total
weigh of 2,500#, I suppose. My question is, will a front wheel drive van
such as a Ford Windstar, or Dodge Caraven, be able to pull the load up
a wet ramp? Or will it just sit there and spin the front wheels?
Experienced advice would be apprecitated, both pro & con. Thanks!
Make sure that you check with the vehicle's manufacturer on the recommended
modifactions for towing 2500 pounds. Most mini vans will pull up to 2000
pounds with some designed (based on suspension modifications, gear ratios
and engine size) to pull more. Also make sure you outfit it with a Class
II hitch (up to 3500 pounds). I see many mini vans pulling boats out of
ramps with little problem, its the Sidekicks that give me a chuckle!. In
fact you will have less trouble with a front wheel drive if your tounge
weight is low, and if its a little heavy have a few people set on the back
of the boat while pulling out (carefully). Also you can reduce the worry
of wheel spin by looking for a shallower ramp that has a less steep grade,
that has low traffic (so the surface isn't too wet). Good luck on your
new hobby, the boating bug will get you this summer! -Mark
Subject: New Boat selection
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 97 23:13:17 +0000
From: artkeene@watertown.com (Art Keene)
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.com
Hi Mark. We are retired but active even tho' in our seventies. We are looking
at doing a lot of boating, fishing, possibly overnight cruising. We have
had 14+ ft fishing boats but nothing like we are considering. Would very
much appreciate your advice.
These are the characteristics and questions we are faced with.
Trailerable-probably; maybe not an absolute reuqirement. Cuddy cabin or
better so we can sleep overnight if we have to or want to Inboard or outboard???
We want to be able to really get out of the weather. Would like a tiny
head and modest water supply if we can get it; no shower of course. If
not possible or doesn't make sense we can do something else. Is there a
trailerable diesel powered boat?? We looked at small pleasure tugs but
they are too expensive. We will be in salt water in the Northwest much
of the time. San Juans. What kind of electronics are advisable as a minimum?
If you have comments on amount of power either inboard gas, outboard or
diesel needed, this would be helpful..
Just discovered you column today. It is super!
Art Keene
Art, I would suggest a 27 foot pleasure I/O boat that runs on gas with
a 300 - 415 hp (ie. Mercruiser 7.4 litre engine / Magnum 502 on some models).
Gas is readily available at most marinas especially if you are on a inland
lake. I checked a few of these out at the Sports Vacation Travel Show in
Columbus last weekend, marine dealers had units from Four Winns, Sea Ray
and Rinker and the units have room for a 6'1" guy like to stand up in the
cabin without having to bend my neck. These are about the largest trailerable
boats you would want buy (without going into professional towing). You
would run on about 70-100 gallons of fuel and hold anywhere from 40 - 70
(give or take a little) gallons of water/gray and/or black. These boats
can come with a microwave, sink, bathroom with a small shower, room for
four to sleep, and in some cases a generator and even an A/C. Its not a
boat you would want to live on but great for camping out in the Northwest.
You can find boats like this down to about 24 feet. Below that the cuddies
are much more cramped. You would need a large tow vehicle to tow it (ie.
a Ford Expedition would tow about 8000 pounds, plenty for a boat in this
size range). You should consider a GPS or Loranz / Depth Sounder and VHF
Marine radio and a small radar unit if you want to travel in bad weather.
Marine radios can run as little as $ 149, Radars just under $ 2000, and
GPS $200 to $2000. A depth finder is a must and comes with many of the
newer boats in this size. I have heard of one trailerable diesel boat but
couldn't find any specs at this time. Being in your seventies should not
stop you! This is the time to enjoy a hobby like this! Let me know what
you decide on, -Mark
Subject: M.P.G. and Missouri River Marinas
Date: Wed, 22 Jan 97 18:51:35 +0000
From: Grant & Rachelle Dietz <xanath@sound.net>
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net CC: Xanath@sound.net
First let me say that I love your sight and I am glad to see there are
other people who love to boat different areas as I do. I am considering
buying a new Astro 18' Fish&Ski, and I would like to know Miles Per
Gallon instead of Hours Per Gallon. I would like to know the difference
between 150HP, 175HP, and 200HP; and what is the best speed. Lastly, My
crazy idea is to go up to Montana or as far up the Missouri river as I
can go and boat down to St. Louis or New Orleans(if possible). Are there
marinas or other refueling stations on the river so this would be possible,
so I could do more than float down. Thank you and keep up the Great work!
Miles per gallon can very depending on weight of the boat and the hull
design, where weight is placed on the boat etc.. 175 Johnson will deliver
in the neighborhood of 3.3 miles per gallon at 3000 RPM which should be
around 22-25 miles per hour, or about 7.2 gallons per hour. If you run
about 4000 RPM at 35 miles per hour you would only drop to 3 miles per
gallon. This is figured on 90% capacity on an 18 foot boat. On a 190 to
200 horse power you will see performance pick up and in some case mileage.
At the 2500 RPM you will go faster at 24.6 (where 175 hp will deliver 13.5
miles per hour) and increase gas mileage at 4.8 miles per gallon or 5.2
gallons per hour. I don't have any data on the 150 hp but the mpg would
be even lower. 150 is more ideal for smaller lakes. Overall you have about
an extra mile per hour at lower RPM with less fuel consumption on a bigger
engine on an 18 foot boat. On the other hand the bigger engine sometimes
causes skippers to run faster and play around with the extra horsepower
and consume more fuel than a smaller engine!. In your case, on a trip from
Montana to New Orleans the extra mileage it is well worth the higher horsepower
motor. Again your results could be different and for best mileage information
see your dealer. Lastly you should find ample fuel stops along many points
of the Missouri and the Mississippi. You can also enjoy the numerous historical
sites along the way especially in North and South Dakota. Someday I hope
to have a complete list of river stopping points as our research into the
great American Inland Lakes and Rivers continue. I am not sure how deep
in Montana you can run before you run out of locks or get into a shallow
area. One person I checked with said Fort Peck Lake. I have heard of farther
west, and found a link that someone wrote on a canoe trip that they took
on the upper Missouri River at http://www.kscon.com/actmiss.html
. The pictures at this site are great. Have fun on your trip!. Mark.
Subject: Force 125
Date: Wed, 22 Jan 97 18:00:44 +0000
From: Perry Rivkind <par@flash.net>
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Mark,I was planning to get a 115 Johnson for my cuddy boat a 20 footer.
I was told to save a lot of money and by a Force engine,125HP.I know the
history of the Force.Is it as reliable as a Johnson/Evinrude etc.? Would
you recommend it for the price or will I be giving up reliability and performance
to save money? I know I have to mix my own oil with gas. Please give me
your best avice. Thanks again for all your responses. Perry
I haven't heard any negatives on Force. Johnson has been around longer
and has a well deserved reputation, and parts are easy to come by. However
Force has made parts readily available over the past several years. With
proper maintenance on either brand you should be OK. -Mark
Subject: Canal Cruisin'
Date: Wed, 22 Jan 97 00:30:25 +0000
From: "N. Sando" <nsando@vivanet.com>
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Just a short note about the NY State barge canal system... My wife and
I have boated on most major lakes in and near New York State - We have
found a greater enjoyment simply touring the wonderful canal system. If
you are into a long weekend (or week) of relaxing cruising - You must try
this. We will be opening up our home page here soon to help inform future
(and present) canal cruisers about little details. Like: overnight docking,
fuel docks, lodging, restaurants, scenic attractions, canal protocol, etc.....
Paul & Nancy
Update me on your site when its up ! -Mark
Subject:
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 97 17:16:11 +0000
From: "Brigg's & Lancaster" <briglanc@intertex.net>
To: <Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net>
Dear Mark: I have a Nissan 50hp motor that needs hydraulic fluid added
to it for the tilt and trim. I cannot figure out how to get the air out
of the lines to make the hydraulic system work. Do you have any ideas?
There is only one boat shop in Houston that works on these types of motors
and it is all the way across town.
Thanks, Robert Lancaster
There should be a bleed valve that should help rid of air bubbles. It
might be a gravity drain type where you open the bleed valve and let the
fluid run out and at the same time watch the air bubbles spurt out. Some
may have to be pressure filled where no air is exposed. You should check
with your Nissan dealer for more information. -Mark
Subject: Glastron Boat
Date: Sat, 4 Jan 97 01:35:37 +0000
From: Mellmck@aol.com
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
I own a Glastron boat. A model 187 w/ a 170-hp volvo engine and a 270 out-drive.
I'd like to know what year this boat was manufactured. Are parts available?
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
You need to call Glastron at (612) 632-5481 or fax them at (320) 632-1439.
Volvo engine parts are readily available in the U.S. and Europe. Verrigni
Marine in Boca Raton, Florida has a large supply at 1-800-88-VOLVO. -Mark
Subject: inexperienced boater
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 96 12:52:36 +0000
From: "Mark Olin" <mao@kuentos.guam.net>
To: <Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net>
Hello,
I've never owned nor operated any size boat. I am interested in learning,
then purchasing my own. Could you recommend any book, magazine, brochures,
etc... which would help me start my journey?
I appreciate your help.
Mark Olin
First and above all else take a safe boating course. Your E-Mail address
shows Guam. If you have boat shows there should be several booths containing
information on courses and gathering brochures for boat manufacturers.
Also subscribe to a boating magazine. Also try renting a boat and see if
you get bitten by the boating bug. Renting is a great way to get experience
before you purchase your own boat. Also see if a local marina has a bulletin
board where you can post a message about wanting advice or insturction
on motor boating and or sailing. I couldn't live on an island without having
a boat! -Mark
Subject: Lake of the Woods
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 96 19:49:26 +0000
From: Ray McFeetors <rlmc@mb.sympatico.ca>
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Hello Again Mark/ I'm on lake of the Woods which touches Minnesota, Ontario
and Manitoba. I Looked up this Lake under Minnesota and it indicated the
lake was 50 Miles long by 35 miles wide. I have been on the lake for 20
years and its dimensions are more like 100 miles long and 60 miles wide.
By actual count it has 14,000 islands and 65,000 miles of shoreline. When
CNN does weather reports or when almost any map of North America is shown
LOTW is one of the bodies of water that appears along with the great lakes
and Lake Winnipeg and lake Manitoba. LOTW is one of the great great recreational
bodies of water in the world.
Thanks for the information! I don't know where my mind was when I covered
that lake. I must have misread the information. I didn't know it had 14000
islands. I will have to plan this on my next Minnesota run! -Mark
Subject: Sea Ray 250
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 96 19:37:03 +0000
From: Ray McFeetors <rlmc@mb.sympatico.ca>
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Hi Mark/ Just found your page and I quite like it. I'm in the process of
purchasing a 1997 Sea Ray 250 Sundancer. I have it in my mind that I would
like to cruise and sleep aboard such a boat. Previously I owned a 220 open
bow sea ray. What I am uncertain about is how comfortable is it sleeping
aboard such a boat? Could you or any of your readers enlighten me about
what I should expect living on the 250?
I am looking at that same boat, probably be a few more years, but thats
one I am studying closely. A 25 foot is great for small families, two adults
and two kids. Or four adults on a short trip. They sleep well, and it is
the most (if you would pardon a little youth coming out of me) "awsome"
feeling spending your first night on your boat. The rocking sensation of
a calm lake (just a little movement) is relaxing. The only drawback to
any boat under 30 feet is being couped up with more than four people for
an extended period of time. If your a couple, you will never get tired
of it. Traveling is now open territory. With an open bow, you had to run
from the weather, so sleeping on board was risky (waking up in the middle
of the night ot rain!). With this boat, who cares about the weather (except
for being in the middle of a great lake). If it rains, you just anchor
and go below, day or night. I plan on using mine to travel down the Ohio
to the Mississippi, and do some lake hopping in Canada. So as far as comfort
goes, as long its not crowded on board, sleeping is no problem, be sure
to lay down in one of the beds before you purchase the boat to make sure
you are comfortable, and be ready for new items like possibly a generator,
fresh, gray & black water storage. Have Fun ! -Mark
Subject: Wellcraft 210
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 96 15:45:43 +0000
From: Perry Rivkind <par@flash.net>
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Mark, Looked at a 21ft Wellcraft OB cabin and liked it .The transom has
no well, just a board in front of the transom.I notice that a lot of OB
are made that way.Does that design result in water backing into the boat
more easily than the old well design? Also,why do they build them that
way instead of the deep well? Thanks again, Perry
Usually the shape of the hull can have a lot to do with how much backwash
will enter the boat. The manufacturer may feel that the well is not needed
in its particular design. I have seen several designs and I have also seen
trouble with water splashing into the boat when the trim was set wrong.
My favorite design is with the engine well receding into the boat exactly
where it sits. You can access the engine better while in the boat (great
when stuck out on the water) and not have to worry about sliding off into
the water while standing in the well area. Every manufacturer seems to
have OB engine mounts in different spots. As to why, (I asked an engineer
at a local marine shop) "its the engineers design, and the hull has a lot
ot do with it, plus a well less boat gives you more on board space." -Mark
Subject: mailto:Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Oil/Stern Drive Date: Fri, 8 Nov 96 07:10:26 +0000
From: Donald B Cowan <dbcowan@tenet.edu>
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
I own a 1973 GlastronI/O (Volvo 130 Marine Engine with stern drive). I
am trying to find out about what kind of oil to use. The manual calls for
10W30 MS. Noone sells MS oil. Is just plain Pennzoil 10W30 OK to use Thank
you, dbcowan@tenet.edu
Don, I check around and no one has heard of MS oil. It probably stands
for a Marine grade oil. Mercruiser requires a 25W 40 for its 4 cylinder
engines, and recommends Quick Silver. If you run the engine hard most of
the time then I would use a heavier weight oil. 10W30 sounds too lite for
a marine engine unless you run in very cold weather. Marine engines have
constant thrust unlike car engines which coast and doesn't break down the
oil as fast. But if the manual calls for that weight you should probably
stick to it. Pennzoil is a good choice. I would suggest talking to a Marine
dealer that handles Volvo engines before you change. Here is a webpage
address for a Volvo Dealer you could E-Mail at the
Maine Network. -Mark.
Subject: trailers
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 96 16:21:15 +0000
From: Perry Rivkind <par@flash.net>
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Mark,great service your providing boaters and would be boaters.My question
is this.What ever happened to the good old tilt or breakframe trailers?I
could launch and retrieve a boat not only faster than a float on but with
no difficulty in any severe wind or current conditions.Particularly if
I had an electric winch.Also, no rust or lite problems since only the bottem
of the wheels got wet.In addition you could launch any anywhere, such as
drop offs, soft sand etc..Why did the boating industry give up the breakframe
trailers.Te repeat, absolutley the easy,simple and safe way to launch.And
you can do it alone under all conditions if you have an electric winch
with a long string to start the winch.One has total control of the boat
using a breakframe since you have the winch cable attached to the boat
when it's out in the water.I almost don't want to get into boating because
of this situation.Tailering is a pain enough without having to fool around
with so called floatons (underwater trailers) once you arrive at your destination.By
the way you can always back a breakframe under water if you have to.I would
like to hear your views and only wish the boating industry had a view.I
asked boat dealers and can't get a logical answer. Thanks for listening
to my gripe, Perry
Perry, I miss those trailers too. I myself do not have an answer as
to why they are hard to find. I have a float up trailer as well, and it
works great with a good boat ramp, but there have been times where I would
like to launch from smaller lakes that have just a beach for a ramp and
found myself, the boat, and vehicle stuck and needing a tow out. You can
self launch from a good ramp (as long as you have a place to dock while
you park the tow vehicle and trailer). It probably is a safety concern,
such as climbing a steep hill and the having a part (ie. winch cable) breaking
causing the boat to roll off onto the road (which can happen with any roller
trailer), rear end collisions etc.. I would suggest checking in the news
group Rec.Boats and post the question there, you might find some interesting
answers. Don't give up on boating though, with improved technological advances
on trailers such as underwater lighting, bearing buddies, better paint
jobs, the situation has improved. Here is a number of some popular trailer
and trailer accessory companies. Shelby Industries sells accessories at
502-633-2040 and Prestige Trailers Inc. might have an idea why they are
hard to find, you can write them at 500 South Madison St. Du Quoin, Il.
62832. Let me know if you find one! -Mark.
Subject: Tenn River/Tenn-Tom Waterway
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 96 03:54:05 +0000
From: "Jay Martin" <jmartin@hiwaay.net>
To: <Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net>
I have been fortunate to make several trips on the Tennessee and the Tenn-Tom
Waterway. I have a 1996 3988 Bayliner that recently replaced a 1986 38
Bayliner (which is for sale).
The trip on the Tennessee is fairly routine as long as you watch the markers.
The Tennessee River Gourge near Chattanooga, TN is beautiful. The Tennessee
runs from Knoxville, TN to Paduka, Ky and is about 600 miles long. I live
at mile 260 near the Wilson Dam in Florence, AL.
I have also made over 20 trips on the Tenn-Tom Waterway. It is a little
less routine with long runs between fuel stops and a big concern for your
wakes effect on other boaters and structures at the banks. The waterway
is far from civilization except for Demopolis, AL especially the lower
200 miles. It begins at Yellow creek (approx mile 210 Tenn River) and runs
450 miles to Mobile. If anyone wants information please email me.
Jay Martin.
Thanks for the trip info Jay. I hear so much about the Tennessee River
from e-mail and boaters whom have taken the trip that I will have to run
it sometime soon myself. Have fun and hope to see you along the river sometime
soon! -Mark
I have a 28 passenger, paddle wheel replica inspected tour boat for sale.
Boat is a unique one of a kind attention getter. 1988 built, for sale here
in stuart, fl for $35,000. email sterling@treco.net or call 561-288-2821
thanks, and have a great season@!
Capt. Sterling Kennedy
Subject: Boating question
Date: Sun, 29 Sep 96 03:30:31 +0000
From: Kev132@aol.com
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Mark, Hopefully you can answer a question that I have gotten several different
answers for. I have a 20 ft Mirage cuddy on a Shorelander"r trailer, the
trailer is white baked on powder paint. I use the boat entirely in freshwater
but would like to three to four times a year use the boat in saltwater.
My concern is the trailer, if I rinse the trailer after use in the saltwater
with fresh water will that prevent it from rusting, or even with a good
rinse down am I starting a rust process I will not be able control. I have
many different answers from dealers and mechanics both. Thanks for your
help.
I talked to a couple of trailer boaters in the New Port Richey, Florida
area about this one. Most of them seem to suggest applying a protective
coating on all metal exposed such as nuts and bolts, etc. Salt water does
cause corrision faster than fresh water, and rinsing the trailer as well
as flushing the engine with fresh water is a must for longevity. The newer
the trailer the better painted it is, therefore if you rinse after pulling
out I would think it wouldn't cause any problems especially if its only
three or four times a year. The main thing is to inspect your trailer for
any cracks in the paint, and put a protective coating over it, the coating
may be touch up paint, a environmentally safe form of grease, etc. The
main problem even on newer trailers are the leaf springs. Springs are easy
to replace but if they break they can stop a trip from being a successful
one. You should coat the springs before you launch in salt water. Also
it is helpful to carry a good C-Clamp in case a leaf spring breaks on the
highway, (a temporary fix). Also be sure to check your bearings and trailer
brakes (if equipped) after pulling out of salt water. Over all these steps
will help prevent corrsion on a trailer. Have a safe fall boating!
Subject: Elk Rapids
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 96 03:46:04 +0000
From: JIM110076@aol.com
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Mark, that was a nice piece. I grew up in those waterways and now live
in California. You know how to make a guy home sick. It's been 7 yrs since
I have returned to visit. I was just wondering if the Elk River Inn still
has it's Seafood nights. Thanks again for rekindling the old home town
flame..
I was up in Elk Rapids again this summer, and had a great time. It was
a little chilli, Traverse City had the Blue Angels Jet show over the west
bay and the Cherry festival was in full swing, Murdicks still sells fudge.
I Ran a trip from Elk Rapids to Belaire (as I do every other year) and
back, I still like to stop at the Dockside Restaurant at the mouth of Clam
lake off Torch. The water is as clear as ever. There still is a great sand
bar near the Torch River from Torch Lake where about 50 of us boaters got
together and had a cook out (cooking on a rented Pontoon). The Grass River
is still as scenic and nature protected as ever with a nice hiking trail
accessible by boat just at the entrance on the north tip of Clam. Elk Rapids
looks great, the theater is still running, the Marina is clean, well kept,
and most of the stores are in operation. I grew up there (on Birch Lake)
in the summers and wish that summer months were three months longer so
I could enjoy it more! The Elk River Inn hasn't changed a bit, however
I don't know if they still have a seafood night, I will check the next
time I get up there, they still have slips too.
Sorry about firing up those memories, but the Grand Traverse Region
is a must visit the next time you visit Michigan. Traverse City is growing
in leaps and bounds, with several new hotels along the east bay, one of
the best are the condos at Grand Traverse Resort Hotel, also featuring
a PGA course and major concerts in the summer months. Downtown Traverse
and the zoo look almost the same, the zoo has added a few small items,
and a nice steam operated train (to replace that old gas unit) in a small
scale. also a couple of malls have popped up along with a couple of high
class casinos. Sleeping Bear Dunes hasn't changed a bit.
Thanks for the E-Mail and be sure to drop a line anytime you have a
question, -Mark (now living in Columbus, Ohio -too far from Michigan! ).
Subject: Re: Terry KO4CX@juno.com
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 96 14:13:32 +0000
From: jak0ljp@jak10.med.navy.mil (LCDR Larry J. Phillips)
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Mark: I made the trip down the Tennessee River several years ago with a
friend and we used a 30 ft. Chris Craft cabin cruiser. It was great. Terry
needs to be aware of the many sand bars which are scattered up and down
the river, which is all the more reason to follow the channel markers.
Also, you are right about dams and the locks. Allow more time in your trip
for these because you never know when a barge might have the locks tied
up. Just be patient and enjoy the trip, the beautiful scenery and be alert
for barges. Sometimes they can throw out a huge wake, so you want to give
them all the room they need. LCDR Larry Phillips, MSC, USN, FACHE Head,
Materials Management Department Naval Hospital Jacksonville, Florida 32214
Ph# (904) 777-7715 FAX (904) 777-7728 DSN 942-XXXX
Thanks for the info on the sand bars, I can remember a similar problem
with the American Queen on the Ohio during a maiden voyage photo shoot.
It is adviseable to watch those water levels too (measured under most bridges).
Channel markers are a must on many rivers. I hope to make that trip next
year myself, have a great fall boating! -Mark
Subject: Boating in Alabama Date: Sat, 24 Aug 96 16:04:03 +0000
From: WOetting@aol.com
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Mark
Really enjoy your boating home page. What a great idea!!
I just moved to Alabama from Las Vegas, Nv. where I boated on Lake Mead.
To my surprise there's a great lake in Alabama - Lake Martin near Daleville.
Water is calm and lots of great places for skiing, boarding etc. However,
I find keeping mold from growing in the skilocker and under the seats extremely
tough. Have you heard of any good ways to stop mold? Nevada was so dry
this was not a problem. By the way, I have a Four Winns 190 Horizon. Thanks
for creating the boating home page. I'll visit often.
Woetting@AOL.com
I have found that those little dry clear jellylike pills ( those little
things you find packed with your VCR ) work well. I also recommend the
practice of keeping towels handy on the boat to wipe the skis down before
putting them in your locker. Lake Mead is in a very dry area, (I was there
in April, Great Lake!) Alabama is just the opposite (at least you won't
get chills getting out of the water in late April), so I would recommend
looking for those little pellets and adding them by the pound as a possible
measure, it works great for me in Ohio. Also there is nothing like a little
fan and direct sunlight to dry out the floor and locker after a soaking
run in a rain storm.
Subject: References
Date: Mon, 03 Jun 96 10:51:00 PDT
From: Rod Wilske <rwilske@gandalf.infs.com>
To: "'Mark-Cameron@Worldnet.att.net'" <Mark-Cameron@Worldnet.att.net>
Mark,
I'm new to the Northern Kentucky area would appreciate some suggestions.
I'm looking for a marina or other boat storage facility that can offer
water for cleaning, etc. (I have a 23' Regal on a trailer).
Also, I'd like to put a bow rail on it.
Regards,
Rod
There are all kinds of Marinas on the Ohio side in the Cincinnati area
between downtown and the eastern outerbelt (I275). Just hop off of Kellog
Ave on the eastern side of I 275 first exit on the Ohio side. I would contact
Regal on the bow rail at Regal Marine Industries, Inc., 2300 Jetport Drive,
Orlando, FL 32809; Telephone: 1-800-US-REGAL; Facsimile: 1-407-857-1256.
E-mail at regal@RegalBoats.com or check out their web site at http://www.regalboat.com/
-Mark.
Subject: AquaSport
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 20:12:14 -0400
From: WJBooth@aol.com
To: Mark-Cameron@Worldnet.att.net
Can you advise me on the whereabouts of the AquaSport dealer fo New England
or the tel no' of AquaSport. I want to buy a used AquaSport 22, is there
a good web site for used boats? Thanks
1-800-603-BOAT (2628) is the number I have for AquaSport.
Aquasport 1651 Whitfield Avenue Sarasota, FL 34243 http://www.genmar.com/netscape/aquaspt/index.html
They can locate a dealer near you. http://www.shoplet.com/boats/ Gives
you new or used boats, (one of many I have looked at on the net). -Mark
Parts Needed -Lots of E-Mail coming in; here is the latest...
Subject: Plexiglass Windshield
Date: Tue, 26 May 1998 13:00:51 -0400
From: James Melwing <air1jsm@air.ups.com>
To: "'mark-cameron@boatingamerica.com'" <mark-cameron@boatingamerica.com>
Mark,
I am in the process of restoring a late 60's or early 70's Starcraft aluminum
runabout. The 15.5' boat is in great shape except for the old curved
styled windshield. Are you aware of anyone who has replacement windshields
for this type of boat.
Jim M.
JMelwing@aol.com
I checked with my resources and couldn't find anything on this line,
I have you posted in the parts section! -Mark
Subject: My cute little cherry Johnson SeaHorse
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 1998 20:08:55 -0500
From: "Dan Tindall" <tbe@netins.net>
To: <Mark-Cameron@boatingamerica.com>
Dear Mark,
I feel lucky to have found your page....
I have found a little 3hp SeaHorse with very few hours on it. Even
has the original prop on it with no paint worn off !! I would really
like to use this motor for a square-stern canoe but I don't want to attempt
to start it until I do all that is necessary to make certain that it is
in good running condition. I would like all of the mfg's books etc.
on it so that I can work on it with confidence. I also will likely
need a good resource for parts. It hasn't been started for many years so
I need to know what to do to get the gunk out and get it ready to go. Any
help/advise you can give me would be appreciated.
Dan Tindall
I have you posted, and hope someone ca fax you or mail you a few specs.
The most important thing is to check the gear oil and if it (hopefully)
runs out the base then I would pump in new gear oil available at any marina
or marine parts store. There are kits for doing this that are relatively
inexpensive. I would also contact a marine parts dealer about the proper
mixture of fuel and oil. Good Luck! -Mark
Subject: hydrofoils?
Date: Thu, 5 Mar 1998 21:59:05 -0500
From: "getripe" <getripe@delanet.com>
To: <Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net>
Hi Mark,
I was wondering if you have any information on hydrofoils ( stingray, se
- 3000) for a stern drive boat ( i/o ) . I want the best one to reduce
cavitation, but no loss in top speed. \Any info would be greatlt
appreciated!
Thanks Joe Brown
Cavitation is usually caused by being trimmed too high. If trimming
doesn't do it then a hydrofoil may be the answer. It does help plane
faster and can reduce cavitation. Its an inexpensive fix and you can find
them at various on-line catelog show rooms such as Overtons ($ 34.99) at
http://www.overtonsonline.com. -Mark
Subject: request
Date: Tue, 03 Mar 1998 11:55:57 -0500
From: STEFANI KAY HILLEY <SHILLEY@arches.uga.edu>
Organization: UNIVERSITY OF GEORGIA, RECORDS COORDINATION
To: Mark-Cameron@boatingamerica.com
My husband is looking for a water pump impeller for a 5hp Elgin, model
#
571-58571 serial # 571-9152. He also needs a carb kit.
Can you help
or provide a name/number.
I have it posted!. -Mark
Subject: Mercruiser Alpha 1
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 1998 23:03:09 -0500
From: "Alan Koop" <akoop@zimet.net>
Reply-To: <akoop@worldnet.att.net>
To: <Mark-Cameron@boatingamerica.com>
Does anyone know of any tricks to increase the performance from a Mercruiser
Alpha 1 engine? I was wondering if anyone made a replacement intake manifold
or a different carb setup that would get me a little more power. If anyone
has any ideas please let me know.
Subject: galaxy
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 98 18:12:42 +0000
From: SSSWINTERS <SSSWINTERS@aol.com>
Organization: AOL (http://www.aol.com) To:
Mark-Cameron@worldnet.ATT.Net
i would like to find an owners guide for an older galaxy i/o (20 ft) 1979,
i purchased last fall. it's in great shape and would love to know more
about it.
any help??
frank @ ssswinters @ aol
An owners guide on a 1979 boat may be a bit difficult to obtain, but
that is one good way to use the Internet!. The last I heard is that Galaxy
went out of business and a company called Pen Yan had bought the molds
and were producing similar boats. Galaxy was also sold under the President
and Magna names. I would recommend obtaining a Chilton's or similar type
of service guide for the brand of outdrive that you have on the craft.
These guides will provide you with most of the maintenance recommendations
on the craft. It also comes in handy for major repair jobs! -Mark
Subject: Dave Hood looking for a boat part
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 98 02:58:05 +0000
From: "Bebout" <bebout@cyberzane.net>
To: <Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net>
Mark,
I'm relaying this message for my dad. I hope I get the language correct!
He needs a part and if you can't help him, perhaps you can suggest someone
who can. Here goes....
Mercury 60....6HP Twin Mercury, Ser# l634466. standing in front of motor,
he needs the right side hood latch.
Hope to hear from you soon! Leslie Bebout (Dave's daughter)
There are numerous parts dealers on the net, Tim's response below indicates
he may have an idea of where to find a latch, or perhaps have one available,
here's his e-mail address: boatman@gte.net , (Tim Griswold) or contact
him in Muskegon, Michigan at (616) 739-8452. (in case you didn't catch
the info on the Tips Page). Good luck, -Mark
Subject: old used obsolete hard to find outboard & IO parts
Date: Thu, 6 Nov 97 13:03:42 +0000
From: Tim Griswold <boatman@gte.net>
Organization: G&G Marine
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Hard to find parts
I have a vast amount of old parts ie. lowerunits,gears,shafts, housings,control
cables & boxes,double line tanks,tanks for the top of motor,recoils,carb
parts including Tillotson W/Master catalog etc. forScott/McCullach,Elgin,Eska,Oliver,Martin,Perkin
s,Neptune or whatever. Also have a lot of new head gaskets & water
pump impellers for most all Scotts. Also have new points & condensors
for a lot of the old motors, out- drives for Merc ruiser including 80hp
& TR drives,OMC & Volvo.Would like to sel either by the piece or
the whole bunch....Contact me via e-mail boatman@gte.net or 1146 Sunset
Ln. Muskegon,Mich.49444 (616) 739-8452....
Thanks for the info Tim, I am sure you will have a few e-mails !. -Mark
Subject: Steering Cable
Date: Sat, 25 Oct 97 20:43:44 +0000
From: regpeckham <regpeckham@shaw.wave.ca>
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Hi Mark We have a 17' Islander centre counsel outboard boat with a 55 hp
Johnson motor. The steering has become real stiff and require imformation
on tips to replacing the cable. The boat is situated in Negril, Jamaica
and I'm from Western Canada which makes this real difficult. The present
cable housing is 12' with a total length of 13'8", We know the hull was
manufactured in orlando Fl. but we don't have any imfo for contacting to
get specs in order to get proper cable . Maybe these things are all standard,
Any imfo. will help start the process of shipping proper part to Negris
will be much appreciated. Thanks, Reg
The stiffness probably is from the salt water corrision. You will probably
have to buy the cable in bulk and cut to fit on location. I am not familiar
with Jamaca, but there should be a dealer on the island you can call to
possibly have them repair it. Chances are they can let you know the type
of cable to purchase. If anyone viewing could help be sure to send us E-Mail.
Good luck and let us know what happens! -Mark
Subject: broken Johnson
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 97 02:37:47 +0000
From: "Gregory L Smith" <Smith-Greg@worldnet.att.net>
To: <Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net>
What a service you provide! I hope this is the right way to get hold of
you, but the e-mail link on your page didn't link.
At any rate my 1978 Johnson 85 hp had a most unfortunate encounter with
a submerged log. The lower gear case is history, and finding a decent used
one would be a prayer answered. The price at the Johnson dealer was frightening
- more than I gave for the whole boat.
Thanks for any help, and keep up the good work.
Greg Smith
You might try Clearfork Marina at 1-800-226-1079 for parts, boaters
I have talked to say they have good prices on outboard parts. Good luck
on that winter repair -Mark
Subject: looking for a block for my 1984 140hp merc, or engine larger to
replace it
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 97 22:03:26 +0000
From: "Scott Robertson" <scott442@hotmail.com>
To: Mark-Cameron@Worldnet.att.net
Hi Mark, great home page, I'm in the process of adding a boating page to
my home page I will be shure to ad a link to your page :-) I'm looking
for either a block for my 140hp Merc., or to replace the engine with a
larger one that will accept my bell housing. It would be with great thanks
if you will post this in my search. Thanks Always Scott
Got ya posted! -Mark
Date: Sun, 28 Sep 97 22:28:22 +0000
From: "Mike Rice" <stuckspacebar@hotmail.com>
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
I have a 79' 115 mercury outboard that has a water leak in #3 and some
scoring but the rest is still good including pt/t. I want to know if it
is worth anything to anyone as a whole or for parts. My e-mail address
is stuckspacebar@hotmail.com Mike in Jacksonville, Fl.
Subject: Valve Springs
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 97 12:06:15 +0000
From: "Rudish, Charles" <crudish@cambridgeoh.com>
Organization: CP
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Mark, Maybe someone out there can help. I have a '78 Volvo AQ-130-D in
my Bayliner. The guys that rebuilt this engine a couple of years ago had
to replace a cracked head with one they found someplace. The problem is,
they left the old valve springs in it, and they are rust pitted. So far,
two of them have broken. I lucked out with the first one and found one
at NAPA that fit. This week another one let go, but NAPA didn't have any
more, and now one else around does either. By the book, This is what I
need: Free length: 1.18 in" Max OD: 1.050 in" Closed: 51-61 @ 1.57 in"
Open: 138-193 @ 1.18 in" If I can find anything even close, but no longer
than 312 in" of the 1.18 in" free length, then I'll need (8) of them to
keep them equal. Thanks, PS-I have completed my OUPV Captains course and
am studying to take the Masters exam. See you on Salt Fork. Chuck
If you can come up to Columbus, we have NAPAs all over the place here,
not to mention one or two in Zanesville that might have one (of course
take Route 40, the traffic in the I70 construction between Cambridge and
Zanesville is incredible as I found out while visiting Seneca Lake last
Sunday), of course good luck on the replacement of springs -Mark
Subject: part needed
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 97 22:47:12 +0000
From: Janet <JWojo@ultra1.phoenixnet.net>
Organization: Wojo To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Hello I don't even know how I got to this web site but glad I did. I hope
you can help. My husband is in need of an omc upper gear case for a 1975
235 hp model# 980970 serial# 89305. If anyone can help us locate one we
would greatly appreciate it. You can Email us at steve414@hotmail.com or
phone 414-554-8300 Mike or Janet Thanks!
Subject: 1990 Yamaha Super 650 Jet Ski
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 97 04:40:35 +0000
From: "Danny Mansur" <danny_mansur@hotmail.com>
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Mark -
I'm looking for a handle bar pole for a 1990 Yamaha Super 650 Jet Ski.
They're made of fibergalss but I'd prefer aluminum. If there are any parts
dealers or wholesalers who are willing to send it to me, please contact
me at the above address. Many thanks.
Got ya posted, -Mark
Subject: Sears 13 1/2 ft. boat
Date: Wed, 14 May 97 20:49:51 +0000
From: Roger Browning <rbrowning@GFC.STATE.GA.US>
To: "'Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net'" <Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net>
I recently bought my first boat, a Sears 1969 model boat with matching
12 hp motor. A little porting and polishing and it runs great! All I need
now is a stick steering device for forward operations! I installed a dolphin
type stabilizer which has helped to get the front end down but I still
want to be able to steer from the front. Help!!
Did you check Bass Masters ? They may have something along a steering
device. There is a remote control device available (as recently reviewed
in Trailer Boats magazine). This kit is expensive but great for the floating
bridge effect. If anyone knows of an item be sure to email Roger ! -Mark
Subject: 115 HP Johnson
Date: Fri, 2 May 97 22:43:05 +0000
From: Skeeter Mason <ionesm@ncis.com>
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Hi Mark:
What a very needed site. You must be just swamped with e-mail. If you could
I would like to find an upper unit of 115 HP Johnson, or new heads or what
ever I can get. I know alot of people have the lower units wrecked but
the upper is fine. Could you post this and e-mail me the direction I should
be going to I am new at this WWW and WOW!!!!!m I am just overwhelmed so
any help I sure could use it.
Thanks Skeeter Mason
ionesm@ncis.com
I have you posted, if anyone has any I'm sure they will drop you a line
! -Mark
Subject: Wellcraft - St. Tropez
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 97 16:20:47 +0000
From: denny <dernest@concentric.net>
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Mark - Need some info on the Wellcraft St. Tropez model from 1987-89. I
heard there was a problem with stringer and bulk heads on this model and
I am looking to purchase one in the near future. I was told that the problem
did not exist after 1996 models and that there is a fix for those that
had it. Any info on this would be greatly appreciated. Also does Wellcraft
have a home page that I could contact and talk about this directly to someone
from the factory. All I can get is Genmars page that referrences Wellcrafts
new line of boats. No way to contact them on older models or receive any
tips. Thanks Denny Ernest
I have not been able to locate a Wellcraft page. There are several dealers
that are offering Wellcraft products with websites. Be sure to try Pier45
for a complete run down on their new products and a phone number to call.
-Mark
Subject: boats
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 97 06:07:40 +0000
From: "Rudish, Charles" <crudish@cambridgeoh.com>
Organization: CP
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Mark, Just ran across your page, looks great. I have a request. I have
a '78 Bayliner w/280 outdrive. I have a problem with the lift unit. I lost
the limit switch that limits the up/down travel of the unit. Living in
southeast Ohio, not what you would call a boating meca, parts can sometimes
be a problem, this being one of them. I have also had to rebuild the little
electric motor that operates the lift screw. I need to find out where I
can find both the switch and the motor. Any Ideas? Bayliner hasen't been
much help. They haven't used this system for quite a while. Chuck Rudish
The lift equipment may not be exclusive to Bayliner. If you know of
the brand you will want to call a marine parts company. There are a huge
variety of dealers nationwide. You may want to try Discount Marine Parts
at 1-800-226-1079. I do a lot of boating in southeast Ohio, mostly on Seneca
Lake as well as an occasional stop on Dillon, Muskingum River, and Salt
Fork. There aren't many dealers in that area but there is plenty of boating.
On the Muskingum in Zanesville I would try Kirkbride, they also may know
where to get the parts you are looking for. See ya on the water this summer!
-Mark
Subject: OUTBOARD PARTS
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 97 17:43:32 +0000
From: GARY BRANDT <U0845@mdtgtf.mdt.mt.gov>
To: mark-cameron@worldnet.att.net CC: U0845@mdtgtf.mdt.mt.gov
I HAVE A SEARS ROEBUCK 12 HP OUTBOARD, PROBALLY 1950's OR 60's. I AM LOOKING
FOR A STARTED DRIVE GEAR FOR THE RECOIL START. IT IS A NYLON 11 TOOTH GEAR.
MODEL #571.59271, SERIAL #59271.C 2727.
THANKS FOR YOUR HELP.
GARY BRANDT
Got ya posted!. -Mark
Subject: Fiberking Fishingboat
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 97 22:12:35 +0000
From: debyanp@server1.softdisk.com (Debbie or Yancy Prokulewicz)
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Hi Mark, My name is Yancy Prokulewicz, and I'm currently looking at purchasing
a used Fiberking Scout Bomber. I have never heard of this name before,
and cannot find a Fiberking, Inc. website. The owner of the boat is asking
$900.00 but it has a broken Lower Unit Pinion Gear in the Johnson 48hp
motor. The owner says it will cost $378.00 for these parts. Can you help
me? I would like to know if this boat is even worth considering.....(although
a boat loaded like this one is probably a steal).
Your quick reply is appreciated.:-)
I have not heard of FIberking, perhaps if one of our readers have heard
of them please enlighten us!. I would take it to a marine technician and
have them do an estimate. You will want to make sure that the hull, controls,
electrical and overall condition of the boat will be worth the $ 1278 that
you will be putting into it. Johnson is an easy engine to obtain parts
for. If the boat is in seaworthy shape then you should be all right!. -Mark
Subject: help me
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 97 14:29:43 +0000
From: Tim Oleary <oleary@ncn.net>
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Hi there Mark. I have a 1977 Johnson outboard motor. Last year my boat
hoist tipped over and damaged my hood. Do you know of anywhere that i can
find the original decals for this motor, or even newer decals at a fair
price?? I would very much appreciate any information. Thank's alot.
You may want to contact Johnson Outboards at (800) 998-9960. Also a
passing surfer may have a spare orginal available ! -Mark
Subject: Force Engine Publications
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 97 19:58:54 +0000
From: "Michael A.Burns" <Burnsm@uillinois.edu>
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
If every in the need for service/parts or owners manuals for Force outboards
You can receive this by calling 414-929-5110. A small fee is required.
Thanks for your input Mike ! -Mark
Subject: Plastronics Boat
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 97 03:57:31 +0000
From: thejoel@ibm.net
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Mark, Am looking at a boat/motor combo. The boat is a 1960 fiberglass runabout
made by Plastronics, Austin TX. (Really interesting bow ornament/running
light setup). Was Plastronics a previous name for Glastron? If so, does
anyone know when and how they became Glastron? Anything you or your cyber-searchers
can tell me would be great. Thanks, Joe Lanigan, San Angelo TX
I haven't heard of Plastronics as a previous name for Glastron. Glastron
was born in 1956 and had a model with a unique hardtop and is a big collectors
item today. They also made the famous Batboat in the mid 60s, which was
inspired by the TV series. Any cyber browser viewing feel free to jump
in via email if you know of where he can find one! -Mark.
Subject: HARD-TO-FIND PARTS
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 97 19:13:40 +0000
From: partsfinders@boca.net (DI parts finders geoff stevens)
To: "'MARK-CAMERON@WORLDNET.ATT.NET'"
HI MARK, I SAW YOUR WEB PAGE THE OTHER DAY AND I NOTICED THAT PEOPLE WERE
IN NEED OF HARD-TO-FIND AND OBSOLETE PARTS.WE ARE MARINE PARTSFINDERS AND
WE SPECIALIZE IN LOCATING AND SELLING THESE PARTS. WE HAVE A NETWORK OF
OVER 1200 PARTS DEALERS THROUGHOUT THE USA WHO STILL CARRY THESE PARTS.
PEOPLE CAN REACH US WITH THEIR REQUESTS AT 561-845-2008 OR VISIT WWW.MARINEPARTS.COM
TO FILL OUT A PARTS REQUEST FORM WITH ALL THEIR SPECIFICS. THANK YOU
Thanks for the information! -Mark
Subject: parts and pieces
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 97 01:01:02 +0000
From: SCJ616@aol.com
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Chicago General in Chicago has alot of the older parts. they are re-manufactured
to be as good as or better than O.E.M parts. I've ordered parts several
times and have yet to have any problems. I've ordered Johnson re-placement
and Christ-Craft coils and all are still working. The nice part is that
they carry I/O parts too. Their phone # is 1-800-645-5076.Johnson coils
are 9.95 ea through these people. Stan Jackson
Thanks Stan. A lot of boaters sure could use a new source for parts, -Mark
Subject: 1963 40 hp Lark Electric Shift Evinrude
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 97 17:40:18 +0000
From: "Adey, Walter E." <Walter.Adey@gepex.ge.com>
To: "'mark-cameron@worldnet.att.net'" <mark-cameron@worldnet.att.net>
Mark, I just started boating last year. I bought an older Starcraft runabout
with an Evinrude 40hp Electric Shift OB. So far I just love boating! Here
is my problem. When I purchased the boat the engine didn't have a generator
on it. Has anyone out there manufactured an aftermarket alternator conversion
kit that will fit under the cowl? It is not the end of the world charging
the batteries after every outing, but it would be a lot less trouble to
just hook up and take off without thinking about whether the batteries
were charged! Any advice?
Thanks Walt Adey
I have heard of a place that stocks hard to find parts through mail
order, you may try Clearfork Marina at 1-800-837-BOAT. They specialize
in Evinrude as one of their lines. You may also try Evinrude for a list
of more dealers at 1-800-998-9960. I haven't heard of any aftermarket models.
-Mark
Subject: in need of a lower unit for a 1979 evinrude115
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 97 16:16:57 +0000
From: Rocmon@aol.com
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Hey Mark,I'm looking for a lower unit for my 1979 Evenrude 115 at a fair
price its a manual shift not electric,i have a lot of parts for a 1979
Jonhson 85 horse with electric shift, I would be willing to trade or sell,
i have around $300.00 to play with.I'am hopeing i can finally get my project
boat in the water this summer!I'located in NJ,Thanks for your help have
a healthy and happy 97.
Got ya posted, -Mark
Subject: parts for "58" lone star CRUISELINER AND MERC 850
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 97 16:10:47 +0000
From: Jkbeard123@aol.com
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
MARK GREAT PAGE!! I RESTORED THE CRUISLINER AND ITS GREAT!!! LOOKING FOR
A LOCATER FOR TROLLING LIKE A EAGLE 7000, 7200 OR 9500 OR LARWANCE THAT
HAS ATLEAST 128 PIXELS. LIKE OLDER X SERIES. ALSO NEED 6X10 POLY PORT HOLES,
2 OF THEM. THE METAL ORIGINALS LEAK, ALL BENT OUT OF SHAPE. THE "77" 850
85HP MERC. WAS UNDER WATER FOR ABOUT 2 HOURS AND I GOT IT SRARTED ABOUT
8 HOURS LATER BECAUSE I WAS AT THE FIRE STATION AND HAD TO WAIT TO GET
OFF . DRAINED CARBS, FRESH FUEL , STARTED RIGHT UP, RAN FOR 2 HOURS ONE
YEAR AGO BUT AS PREDICTED THE ELECTRICAL IS WHAT I'AM HAVING PROBLEMS WITH.
I NEED A COMPLETE WIRING HARNESS , STARTER AND TRIM MOTOR (WHICH I CAN
HAVE REBUILT IF PRICE IS TO HIGH) IF ANYBODY OUT THERE HAS HAD A OUTBOARD
GO UNDER AND MIGHT HAVE SOME IDEAS OF WHAT I NEED TO LOOK FOR PLEASE HELP!!!!!
THANKS!! KELLEY FROM TULSA jkbeard123@aol.com
Got ya posted ! -Mark
Subject: Pontoons
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 97 17:29:25 +0000
From: Dan <degold@fyiowa.infi.net>
Organization: InfiNet
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Hi Mark! Great page ya have here! I am looking for a pair of pontoons in
the 30-35 foot range. Dealers and manufacturers are somewhat reluctant
to give their sources. Anyone out there know a supplier?
Subject: USED PARTS
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 97 14:51:50 +0000
From: LISJESJEF@aol.com
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
MY NAME IS JEFF PRICE.I HAVE SEVERAL SOURCES FOR USED MERC PARTS.I HAVE
BEEN IN THE RETAIL BOAT BUSINESS FOR SEVERAL YEARS. I AM PRESENTLY WORKING
FOR MARINE SALES ON PICKWICK.WE ARE MERC,FORCE,OMC,AND VOLVO DEALERS.LET
ME KNOW IF I CAN HELP
Thanks for the input Jeff, I have ya posted ! -Mark
Subject: HELP ON DIFFICULT TO FIND PART
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 97 17:09:03 +0000
From: FUGAWEEM@aol.com
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Dear Mark,
Nice Page for boaters,
I have a 1978 '43 Viking Double cabin MY. sombody hit the bow of the boat
and knocked the starboard viking emblen off. It is 28" long. HELP HELP
HELP. Does andbody out in ciber space know where i can find one
thanks
Mike Adelberg E Mail Address: Fugaweem@aol.com
This is the kind of thing cyberspace is for! If anyone can help with
this part e-mail us or him ! Wish you luck! -Mark
Subject: IN NEED OF
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 97 17:26:57 +0000
From: MSRMOUSEL@aol.com
To: MARK-CAMERON@worldnet.att.net
CC: CDME77731@aol.com
HI MARK, I'M LOOKING FOR PICTURES FROM OUTBOARD MOTOR REPAIR MANUALS. WHAT
I'M LOOKING FOR IS AN EVINRUDE 35hp 1979 lower unit. I NEED THIS FOR REPAIRS
AND HAVENT BEEN ABLE TO FIND ANY WHERE. YOUR HELP WILL BE GREATLY APPRECIATED.
You should be able to find manuals like these at most marina parts centers
in major markets. Evinrude also has a list of dealers that should be able
to help, call them at 800-998-9960. -Mark
Subject: Part Needed
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 97 15:20:19 +0000
From: Bob Story <bstory@inlink.com>
Organization: Houseboat "REVELRY" To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Mark:
If anyone has a good used engine cover for a 1985 SeaRay Seville I/O, I
would appreciate an E-Mail as to location and price.
Thanks
Subject: PART NEEDED
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 97 22:49:45 +0000
From: "Corleen Simmons" <QUEENLARA@msn.com>
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
HOPING TO FIND THE LAST PIECE OF OUR PUZZLE! WE NEED TO FIND A 1967 OMC
OUTDRIVE MODEL # HUE155, SERIAL # W70358 OR OTHER POSSIBLE OPTIONS. ALL
I REALLY NEED IS THE MIDDLE OF THE OUTDRIVE ITSELF TO COMPLETE, BUT I'D
PREFER A COMPLETE UNIT FOR PARTS.GREATLY APPRECIATE ANY HELP YOU COULD
OFFER!!?.P.S. I HAVE FOUND A COUPLE OF LOCAL DEALERS WHO COULD ACCOMMIDATE
MY NEEDS,FOR A PRICE!($3200.TO$3800.).I MYSELF THINK THATS A LITTLE OUT
OF HAND.WHAT DO YOU THINK? THANKS . BRI FROM THE LAND OF 10,000 LAKES.
I have you posted. Not an uncommon price for a new drive, though it
may be cheaper in teh south. Hopefully a dealer will spot this and reply
back soon, good luck. -Mark
Subject: looking for out drives
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 97 04:43:39 +0000
From: RHarri1069@aol.com
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Mark I am looking for a Karma out drive, have heard they are hard to find
do you know where I can find one or two? Also I need an alternator bracket
for a 350ci in a Jersey Speed Skiff with a Chris Craft Front plate, also
need the drive pully. can you help me find these things, Thank you.
I checked with sources and couldn't find Karma. Have it posted, -Mark.
Subject: How do you know the correct propeller for your boat?
Date: Fri, 10 Jan 97 04:33:23 +0000
From: Skip24u@aol.com
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Dear Sir
I thought I knew alot about boats until it came to a propeller. I few months
ago I moved from the Texas Coastal Bend Area (South Texas) to the other
end of the state of Texas. I now live in far West Texas. I have a 16' -
2" Wrangler Skeeter Bass Boat with a 150 HP Evinrude motor. In South Texas
I could run the boat at 65 - 70 MPH at 5500 RPM with a 14.5 X 24 propeller.
I went to a lake in New Mexico and could not go over 53 MPH or turn over
4200 RPM. I think this could have hurt my engine in the long run. I purchased
a 14.5 X 19 propeller for the new alttitude which made the boat run at
55 - 57 MPH at 5100 RPM. I can't seem to find any two so called experts
that say the same thing. I have three questions:
1. Are the RPM's correct for the alttitude (4000 feet above sea level)?
2. Did I buy the correct propeller for the boat/motor combination?
3. What is the formula or rule of thumb for the correct propeller?
4. Am I hurting the motor in any way using the 14.5 X 19 propeller?
Please contact me a SKIP24U @ AOL.COM Thankyou for your time
The important thing is that you don't redline your engine. Check with
your Evinrude dealer for high altitude prop suggestions. A smaller propellor
will decrease stress on the engine, but at lower altitudes it will send
you straight to redline on full throttle. RPMs for that altitude are normal
based on suggestions from other boaters. Some have found ways of adjusting
the carburetor for improved performance. Some fuel injected models automatically
adjust for high altitude. I have heard of three different improvements
for high altitude boating. One is adjust the carburetor for a leaner fuel
mix, or you will burn rich (again check with your Evinrude dealer), prop
switching (only after adjusting the carburetor), and on some brands, different
octane of fuel. At higher altitudes you may actually find that lowering
the octane will help, (thinner air causes different combustion). As far
as the rule of thumb goes, read below, it varies with manufacturers, however
if an Evinrude technician happens to read this please e-mail us!. There
are charts available for some manufacturers. I will do some more digging
this week and hopefully get all of them and post them as made available.
Here is a list of Propellor terms I borrowed from a technician. These are
what the the men and woman of the marine engine and blade repair world
live by.
1. LEADING EDGE - The edge of the propeller nearest to the boat cuts
through the water first, starting at the hub it extends to the blade tip.
2. BLADE TIP - This is the farthest point that a propeller extends from
the center of the hub to the outer radius of the blade.
3. TRAILING EDGE - The edge of the propeller farthest away from the
boat where the water leaves the blade.
4. CUP - The cup on a propeller is designed to help lock the propeller
in the water to reduce slippage and prevent cavitation. The cupped area
is located on the trailing edge of the blade starting approximately 1"
from the hub extending out to the blade tip.
5. PUSHING FACE - This is the face of the propeller blade away from
the boat. More commonly called the PITCH FACE which faces the pitch block
when repairing.
6. NEGATIVE FACE - This is the face of the propeller blade toward the
boat.
7. BLADE ROOT - The thickest area of a propeller where the blade and
the hub are joint together.
8. HUB - The center of the propeller that fits over the propeller shaft.
9. OVER HUB EXHAUST - Exhaust gasses flow over the hub and blades.
10. THRU HUB EXHAUST - Exhaust gasses flow through a barrel of outer
hub to prevent exhaust gasses from flowing over the blades of the propeller.
11. RUBBER HUB - inner hub bushing made of hard rubber, molded to a
splined spindle to protect the drive train when shifting.
12. ACR/DIFFUSER RING - The flared ring used on through hub exhaust
propellers. The ACR/Diffuser ring prevents the exhaust gasses from backing
up on the blades which produces cavitation on take-off.
13. CAVITATION - The introduction of air on the propeller blades resulting
from running a damaged propeller, or from sucking air from the surface
of the water. A cavitating propeller is actually slipping and produces
very little thrust.
14. PITCH - The theoretical travel of a propeller through a mass per
revolution. EX: a 19" pitch propeller moves approximately 19" per revolution.
15. STRAIGHT PITCH - The pitch is constant or the same from leading
edge to the trailing edge of the propeller.
16 PROGRESSIVE PITCH - The pitch increases from the leading edge to
the trailing edge. EX: Leading edge measures 17", trailing edge measures
17" pitch - this is a 3" regressive pitch.
17. VARIABLE PITCH - The pitch increases from the leading edge to the
trailing edge, and from the hub to the outer tip.
19. RAKE - The angle of the propeller blade in correspondence with the
propeller shaft.
20. FORWARD RAKE - Blades are angled toward the boat. Commonly used
for inboard propellers and small outboard propellers.
21. AFT RAKE - Blades are angled b back or away from the boat. This
type of rake is used to help lift the stern of the boat on take-off, and
on top end will help to lift the bow up - improving performance.
22. PARABOLIC RAKE - The off center development of a propeller blade
used to make the rake concave or convex.
23. DIAMETER - The overall width of a propeller.
24. RIGHT HAND ROTATION - The propeller turns clockwise on the shaft.
25. LEFT HAND ROTATION - The propeller turns counter-clockwise on the
shaft.
The pitch on most propellers can be changed to obtain better performance
if necessary. Aluminum propellers can be changed two (2") inches up or
down in pitch. Bronze propellers can be changed two (2") inches up or down
in pitch. Stainless Steel can be changed one (1") inch up or down. We do
not recommend changing the pitch any more than one (1") inch.
When changing pitch you need to know how the propeller performs before
you change it. By lowering the pitch one (1") inch the motor will gain
200 RPM. By increasing the pitch the motor will lose 200 RPM. Do not attempt
changing the pitch of a propeller in towards the hub. The metal in this
area usually will not bend. It is only necessary to change 1/3 to 1/2 of
the propeller blade to the new pitch.
1" Pitch = 200 RPM
Lower pitch to gain RPM
Increase pitch to lose RPM
Single cup = 200 RPM
Double cup = 300 RPM
1/4" Diameter = 200 RIM
Decrease diameter - gain RPM
Increase diameter - lose RPM
A Progressive pitch on a propeller makes it more versatile and helps
the motor adapt to different loads. A progressive pitched propeller accelerates
better than most straight pitch propellers and also develops very good
top end.
Most propellers can be changed from straight pitch to progressive pitch.
For better take off - lower the pitch over the leading edge. For better
top end - increase the pitch over the trailing edge. See example below.
To figure out which pitch will be the most effective on a given boat,
follow this formula.
1.Gauge the existing propeller and determine what pitch it is.
2.Find out what RPM the prop turns.
3.Find out what the motors recommended RPM range is.
Example
1.Motor - Mercruiser 120 HP @ 4400 - 4800 RPM
2.Motor has 1:68 to 1 Gear Ratio
3.Prop has true 17" pitch
4.Motor currently runs 4600 RPM
Here goes the calculator.
Pitch in Feet 17" pitch / 12" per foot = 1.42
x RPM at prop = 2738
= Speed in feet per minute = 3888
x 60 (60 minutes per hour) x 60 233280
/ 5280 feet (number of feet per mile) / 5280
= Theoretical Speed = 44.18 MPH
x .82 (average slip = 18%) x .82
= Probable Speed = 36.22 MPH
Here are a list of Typical Rakes
10 degree Forward Rake - Weedless design used on outboard motors by various
manufacturers.
2 - 4 degree Forward Rake - Wide blade design used on outboards, I/O's
and inboards by various manufacturers.
0 degree Rake - Used on outboard, I/O's and inboards by all manufacturers.
5/6 degree Rake - Used on Pontoons and Houseboats. I/O's outboards and
inboard props.
8 degree Aft Rake - Used on outboards and I/O's by various manufacturers.
10/11 degree Aft Rake - Used on outboards and I/O's by various manufacturers.
15/16 degree Aft Rake - Used on outboards and I/O's by various manufacturers.
19/20 degree Aft Rake - Used on outboards and I/O's by various manufacturers.
23 degree Aft Rake - Used by OMC on 70 - 140 HP motors and older style
outboards and I/O's.
Parabolic Rake - Various rakes - 3 degree Forward through 35 degree Aft.
Used for performance propellers by various manufacturers.
Again check with your manufacturer for exact recommendations before
changing your prop in order to satisfy the performance recommendations.
-Mark
Subject: marine anchor winch 12 volt
Date: Sun, 12 Jan 97 23:43:12 +0000
From: JAHNurse@aol.com
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Need drawings and recommendations or near by places to find the following:
12 volt winch, power up power down, capable of lifting 25 lbs., 3/8 nylon
anchor rope, electric lock, 200 ft rope capacity, can be deck mounted,
simple. For Great Lakes fresh water perch and whitefish fishing. Thank
you. I sent this to an Australian company. I'm trying to help my father
in law find the above. Then I found your web page, it's great!! We live
in Traverse City. I think your the man to help us. Thank you lots, hope
to hear from you soon. Jodie Hoffmeister
I checked in a catelog and found a MINN KOTA but the specks were smaller
with 60-feet of rope at 800 pounds and 35 pounds of anchor capability.
I will dig some more this week and try to find some larger units. There
are several marine shops in and around Traverse City, a couple south of
town on U.S. 31 and one north on 72 just around the west Grand Traverse
Bay. One of them (if they are open this time of year) should be able to
recommend or have supply of a larger winch. I have a 60 foot anchor I use
by hand and have anchrored off Old Mission Pen. close to the shoals, (I
can see where you drop off on the dept finder) and get into several hundred
feet of water quickly. I will update this response as soon as I get more
info, see ya on the water next summer!
Subject: OLD MOTORS PARTS AND PIECES
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 96 20:14:11 +0000
From: SCJ616@aol.com
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
SCJ616@AOL.COM IHAVE LITERALLY 2THOUSAND #'S OF OLD MOTOR PARTS SWAP/SELL/TRADE.
SUCH AS: 4 1/2 SD10-20 JOHNSON MOTORS 8-9 TD 20 JOHNSONSA FEW CHAMPION
SINGLES, SOME JOHNSON JW PARTS. SOME MARTIN PARTS ANDOTHERS.IF YOU WILL
POST THIS MAYBE WE CAN HELP EACH OTHER.I AM LOCATTED IN N/E OHIO.
Subject: Used Yamaha outboards
Date: Thu, 9 Jan 97 18:14:31 +0000
From: QKHRIS@aol.com
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
To whom it may concern;
I am interested in purchasing used Yamaha outboard engines in good condition
H.P. 25,40,48,55,60,65,75,80,85,90. Please fax to (305)227-6953 or E-mail
Qkhris@aol.com include prices.
Thank you; Raul Nunez
Subject: 25hp Mercury Outboard
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 97 02:22:19 +0000
From: WGolson@aol.com T
o: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Need carb model no. BCIC 8498 for 82 25hp Mercury Outboard serial no. 6185981
they no longer make this carb. Could you Please help me. Thanks
I have it posted, hopefully someone will be able to track one! -Mark
Subject: Mid 1960's merc 110-3
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 97 01:44:29 +0000
From: "Boleslaw W. Burak" <"burak@mindspring.com"@mindspring.com>
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Happy New Year Mark!
It will be happier for me if you can help me. I need points for this beast.
It has a phelon magneto. It is a Mercury 9.8 horse model 110-3, manufactured
in the mid 60's. Its' VIN # is 16818117. I need a set or a pair of points.
Cannot find them in my area. HELP!!!
I appreciate anything you can do or if you can direct somewhere else.
Thanks,
There are several Mecury parts suppliers nationwide. Here are a couple
that ship. Discount Marine Parts, 1-800-226-1079, Marine Parts Superstore
1-813-539-7440, Clear Fork Marina Discount Engine Parts 1-800-837-BOAT.
-Mark
Subject: Parts for Chrysler stern drive
Date: Wed, 1 Jan 97 01:49:12 +0000
From: "Harry H. Charles" <harry.h.charles@snet.net>
To: Mark-Cameron@Worldnet.att.net
Mark-
I need help locating the main shaft for the upper unit of a Chrysler 300
stern drive model 5004 HA or HB. Do you know of anyone who may have these
parts?
Hank Charles
Here is Chrysler's number... 1-800-677-5782. They should be able to
refer you to a parts center. -Mark
Subject: New owner question
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 96 03:39:42 +0000
From: Shankland <pshankla@jiatfe.org>
Organization: JIATFE
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
I just movedto Key West & got a 17 foot open bow ski boat for some
inshore & bay fun. It's powered by a little 70 hp Evinrude outboard
and now I'd like to find the manual on the engine. Do you know how I might
find one? Are there "Chiltons" for outboards?? Thanks Nice Site! Paul Shankland
LCDR US Navy Key West FL Pshankland@FlaKeysOL.com
There are outboard manuals for most engines on models usually three
or more years old. Check with your library, marine dealer, or strike up
a conversation with a boater with a similar engine (whom might make you
a photo copy an exchange for an ice cold beverage). But you can't beat
the manufactures manual (the one designed for mechanics). It will get you
any needed information such as changing the alternator to boring the cylinders.
If you are boating in salt water in the Keys, be sure to flush your engine
to help reduce corrision. Have fun boating in the keys! -Mark
Subject: marine batteries
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 96 18:33:49 +0000
From: Dana Green <dagreen1@popper.PacBell.COM>
To: Mark-Cameron@Worldnet.att.net
Hi Mark, First,"thanks" for the help in finding documentation on my glastron
boat. That number was very helpful. John in the parts department is a gem.
He has sent me invaluable documentation on my boat, at "no charge". Now
I have another question. I'm looking for the best marine battery on the
market for my primary source. As I stated before, my 22' 1979 Glastron
is powered by a 200 horsepower Mercury engine.
Your suggestions will be highly appreciated.
Thanks,
Dana
You have me thinking a lot on batteries Dana. I have a Bass Master battery
that came with the boat (bought new from a dealer). It is going on four
now and still hasn't fussed once (even with the stereo and dept sounder
going all day while swimming with my kids in a cove). Batteries have different
ratings by cranking amps. I suggest exactly what it recommended for your
boat, or if not available, the next higher. I have heard of someone going
the next lower and the battery had major problems along with the alternator.
A higher amp battery cleared it up completely. Brands may very depending
on the area you are in, its not something you find in your average catalog
(at least in most, acids require special care for transportation). I suggest
your nearest dealer for their recommendations based on their experiences.
Sure you can by a battery at Walmart, but a good marine battery is worth
a few extra bucks at a marine parts store ! -Mark
Subject: Starcraft Boats
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 96 20:20:14 +0000
From: "Don Miller" <dgmiller@hiwaay.net>
To: <Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net>
I have purchased a 1973 Starcraft Chieftan 18 day cruiser. I would like
to get for information about it, and possibly order a part if they are
still available. Is Starcraft still in Goshen, In., or do they have a new
owner. My local marina can't find a good address. Thanks in advance for
your help.
Don, I checked around and found a dealer at http://www.iwol.com/iww/Customers/CarlStirnsMarine/home.html
. They should be able to provide you with parts information. This particular
dealer is in Auroa, Illinois. -Mark
Subject: OLD MOTORS PARTS AND PIECES
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 96 20:14:11 +0000
From: SCJ616@aol.com
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
SCJ616@AOL.COM
IHAVE LITERALLY 2THOUSAND #'S OF OLD MOTOR PARTS SWAP/SELL/TRADE. SUCH
AS: 4 1/2 SD10-20 JOHNSON MOTORS 8-9 TD 20 JOHNSONSA FEW CHAMPION SINGLES,
SOME JOHNSON JW PARTS. SOME MARTIN PARTS ANDOTHERS.IF YOU WILL POST THIS
MAYBE WE CAN HELP EACH OTHER.I AM LOCATTED IN N/E OHIO.
I have it posted, and I think a lot of internet browsing boaters may
be e-mailing you soon! -Mark
Subject: Evinrude Zepher
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 96 23:28:00 +0000
From: Richard Ceraldi <erc004@email.mot.com>
Organization: Motorola
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Mark, I recently came across an old Evenrude Zepher in what appears to
be mint condition. Where can I find information on it? Like fuel/oil ratio
or parts books etc. I believe they were built before WWII. Any ideas were
I can find out what I have? It's really cool looking. Thanks, Richard Ceraldi
erc004@email.mot.com
I would call Evinrude Motors at 1-800-998-9960. It probably takes a
standard fuel oil mixture, about a quart of outboard motor oil per five
gallons, be sure to check with Evinrude first to be safe. They may have
back records or instruction books. -Mark
Subject: BOAT MANUAL
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 96 06:52:25 +0000
From: Dana Green <dagree1@popper.PacBell.COM>
Organization: network operations
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
HI MARK, CAN YOU DIRECT ME TO SOMEONE OR PLACE THAT HAS AN OPERATION,OWNER
OR SOME SORT OF FUNCTIONAL MANUAL FOR A 1979 GLASTRON BOAT. THE MODEL IS
A SEA FURY WALK-AROUND CUDDY CABIN. IT'S 21'6" LONG. I REALLY DON'T KNOW
WHERE TO START. MY E-MAIL ADDRESS IS dagree1@popper.pacbell.com. THANKS
IN ADVANCE FOR YOU ASSISTANCE.
Dana, you may want to check the library for an engine manual, since
the hull requires little maintenance, the engine and related equipment
is what you want to focus on. You can also call Glastron Boats at 612-632-5481.
Subject: Seaport MKVI Colour Depthsounders
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 96 03:12:46 +0000
From: "John Armour" <istr1012@fox.nstn.ca>
To: <Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net>
I would like to find a Seaport MKVI colour video depthsounder. Have any
idea where a person can get one of these instruments? I had one, in 1990,
on my 32 ft., Silverton, "MISTY", here in Kingston, Ontario, Canada and
it was the best video depthsounder I ever had. There is a need for a video
monitor here because of the 1000 Islands (actually 1880, plus a few few
that never quite made it to the surface!). The Hummingbird Fishfinders
just don't cut it, as well as a video sounder.
The company went out of business, along with Marine Mail Order Supply Stores.
The original company may have been located in Michigan, but almost any
area marina may have the odd used instrument for sale.
Thanks,
John Armour istr1012@fox.nstn.ca
Subject: Just browsing
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 96 18:15:04 +0000
From: clarence kachenmeister <slash3@erinet.com>
To: Mark-Cameron@Worldnet.att.net
I like the idea of you home page. Think it is great.
I grew up on Lake Erie and still fish it on a regular basis. Also lived
in Kentucky for 15 years and have fished on many of the lakes in Ky and
Tennessee. I also work on boat motors on the side and may be able to offer
some assistance time to time. On tip is that cable/shifting problem from
KOACX@juno.com. He was having a problem shifting into reverse. On many
outdrives the actual shift into reverse is a pull on the shift cable. This
is a defaut design, what usually happens is the cable retainer inside the
outdrive fails and allows the cable jacket to slip inside the drive unit.
Foreward is not affected because the cable is pushing the shift mechanism
instead of pulling. On most outdrives replace can be accomplished by the
owner if he has the necessary tools. Parts cost about $100. The above applies
if the shift problem is experienced when manually shifting at the likeage
to the out drive. If there is no problem when shifting from this point,
then problem is in shift lever or top cable.
Many public libraries have repair/maintenace books. Check them out before
spending the bucks to purchase one.
Thanks again for the great page and feel free to email me.
Thanks for the Tip! Terry should be in good shape with your advise.
The library is also a great idea for books on marine engine repair! -Mark
Subject: NEED MANUAL FOR DEPTH FINDER
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 96 22:15:18 +0000
From: JJenni1005@aol.com
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Have a new boat, with a hummingbird depth finder built in. Having a bear
of a time getting it to work right. The dealer does not have a manual on
how to work the thing. This is a 1996 Marada MX-2 I/O.
Thanks
June Jennison
I have a Hummingbird, but I haven't been able to locate my manual. You
should be able to push the menu button and see a list of the various functions.
If you are not getting a reading be sure to check your transducer usually
on the back or in the bilge. Make sure the wires are connected properly.
By the way, I have a 94 Marada, Great Boat!
Subject: After market part's
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 96 04:09:34 +0000
From: "D. E. Davis" <dirtyden@xyz.net>
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Hi Mark, Im in search of after market parts for Johnson outboard's, Crank's,
piston's, ect... Thank you verry mutch,Dennis Davis
I would check with your local marine dealer, you may have to say with
genuine parts depending on the age. Johnson outboards are at 1-800-998-9960.
-Mark
Subject: Parts
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 96 18:25:06 +0000
From: GFields294@aol.com
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Dear Mark,
I am in need of an outdrive for a 1976 OMC 225 . I have looked locally
just to find I am looking for a dinosaur. If you know of where I might
find one or another alternative I would be very appreciative. I just sent
this one to a marina to have it rebuilt and got the biggest ripoff I can
remeber. It came back the first time with gears from a 4 cyl. Then he repaired
it again & again. You know the story. If you can help me I would be
GRATEFUL.. Yours Truly, Greg Fields GFields@aol
I would make a visit to small claims court over this one. It should
be repaired to factory specs, if not demand your money back. I checked
my parts file and found a couple of spots, you may want to try Doug Russell's
Warehouse Sales which has rebuilts starting from $ 995 with trade and claims
to have many hard to find parts. You can call (508) 791-4917 out of Worchester,
Mass. Also you may want to try Marine Parts Plus at (609) 461-3180 (Delran,
N. J.). A couple of long distance calls can save you a lot on your bank
account! -Mark
Subject: Haine Signature Boats
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 96 09:14:08 +0000
From: Thomas Denovan <tdenovan@ozemail.com.au>
Organization: Pre-installed Company
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Mark,
I have been involved in boats for some years now and am looking at upgrading
my Stejcraft to a Haines Signature 2100S. Can you recommend them to me
or know if there is a site on the web which may be of assistance? By the
way, great site!
I found a site in Queensland area of Australia at http://www.quikpage.com/S/sprmari/
located at Springwood Marine Pty Ltd 3445 Pacific Hwy Slacks Creek, Queensland
4127 Australia.
Phone: 07-3208-5755 FAX: 07-3209-1366 (Hope this helps you out!) -Mark.
Subject: Vovo Penta Outdrive
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 96 15:32:48 +0000
From: Richard Kornreich <richardk@usa.net>
To: Mark-Cameron@worldnet.att.net
Hi Mark,
I have a 1984 Bayliner Contessa 2850 witha single 350Cu In engine and a
Volvo Penta 270 Outdrive.
This boat is very hard to handle at slow speed, and must be wide open to
get onto plane.
I am considering changing for a volvo dual prop system which is suppose
to address these problems. Two questions.
1. Do you know if they would help.
2. Do you know where I could find used (in good shape) dual prop outdrives
for my boat.
And do you know if there is any place that might have good parts from salvaged
boats - is there a national listing service for parts similar to what the
automobile wrecker services have.
Many Thanks for your help.
Richard Kornreich
I have read about dual props and have found that they do increase performance,
which may help you to get on plane easier. I checked my Volvo accessory
listing and you can talk to someone at 1-800-88-VOLVO. Tech number is at
(407) 338-8844. Verrigni Marine Inc. in Boca Raton, Florida. West Coast
in the Seattle Area there is also another dealer in my list at 1-800-223-5284
(Coastal Marine). They can fill you in on the possibilities on your boat
or at least foward you to a number. -Mark
Subject: prop part
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 10:07:54 -0700
From: Annie Livengood <alive@dls.net> Organization: DLS Computer Services,
Inc.
To: Mark-Cameron@Worldnet.att.net CC: alive@dls.net
I have a 19 foot stingray cuddy cabin boat and about 5 years ago I purchased
a steel prop and to keep it from being stolen I purchased a prop guard,
it is called prop guard by stern safe. Well the part that is going to never
fall off did. And I would like to get the parts I need, but not sure if
this place is still in business or what. All I have is a P.O. box number,
I tried information and they don't show a phone number for this place.
Can anyone out there help me to find this part and in a hurry, need by
the end of this month.Thanks Mark, I just found out about you guys and
can't wait to tell my husband when he gets home from work.Please write
back to me at, alive@dls.net
Hope you enjoy the page! I have seen the lock kits (also available
for trailer lug nuts) and unfortunately I don't have the catalog with me
but I should have it by Monday. I haven't heard about any that have fallen
off, but I have heard cases of regular mounted props falling off. You might
have a McGuard lock, call them at 1-800-669-6887.
-
Be sure to check out other boaters pages through these great search tools!
-- --
Copyright ©: Mark K. Cameron Revised March 16th,
1999