A word from Boating America Author Mark Cameron, 

Ok its only an 18 foot but it is small enough for the kind of inland lakes and rivers I like and its big enough for the kids and I without going overboard on HP. limits. It is a Kentucky based manufacturer and it uses the ever famous Mercrusier outdrive in the 3.0 litre 4 cylinder format. Its a first boat, low payment, low insurance and light enough for the van to idle it out of the water. I can get up to 40 miles per hour on a ski prop but I generally stay at a 20 - 30 miles per hour speed.

I pulled into the Marine dealership that following morning ready to pick up the boat and brought the kids with me (not telling them what I was up to I might add). My daughter 8 and son 5 just thought it was just another trip to a dealer which I was sure they found boring until we went back to the van and the boat and trailer were all hooked up. The kids needless to say were excited probably more than I was.

-First Time Out-

They say its the happiest day when they sell the boat too! But now nearly two years later, each day I take the cover off with a full 30 gallon gas tank I still feel just as happy! That day on Dillon lasted about two hours when our first raging thunderstorm came along. We made a quick run for the van and I backed the trailer down the ramp and spent the entire down-pour trying to get lined up for the trailer (not bad considering the high winds). After about 20-minutes I was up out of the water, engine up, drain out and ready with the towels. Then on the way through Zanesville a light suddenly changed and I couldn't stop in time and I could say it was my first written warning pulling a trailer. It doesn't end there, I headed to visit a friend and while trying to get situated backing up, a drunk driver came flying down the road out of nowhere and I heard this sickening "screech". Fortunately he only nicked the trailer, but I couldn't say much about his car! He got out and looked at his car, turned to me, he looked mad and a bit dis-oriented, (It was dark and I technically had the high beams on by accident and he didn't see the trailer while I was backing) and he asked me who was going to pay for the damage to his car. I (with my heart still raging and still wet from the storm) said, "let me make a phone call, the sheriff should take a report". I headed for my car phone and he immediately backed down and ran to his car and took off. Yes he really reeked of alcohol and didn't to file a report. Needless to say I little touch up paint on the Tennesse Trailer with the Bearing Buddies did the trick! To this day I still practice backing without taking up more than my lane.

Not a bad first day, at least the boat wasn't at the bottom of the lake. I have taken that boat on lake after lake in Michigan, West Virginia and my home state of Ohio. I also broke my first prop a week later while on vacation near Traverse City on Torch lake. It happened while trying to out run a Thunderstorm, that I have been a magnet for lately.

This summer I plan on a relaxing house boat trip on Kentucky's Lake Cumberland. I have never been there and I am very excited about it!
 
 

Favorite Inland Lake Trip:

If you like to Fish, this will be one long troll you will never forget. On Grass River it was as easy as casting the rod!

Back in Elk Rapids we caught up with a couple whom had made the trip on Jet Skis. I used about 15 gallons of fuel, and still had enough for the rest of the vacation. Lodging is expensive in the Traverse City area in July but the best time seems to be in June when the weather (at least it seems) to be drier then, and with less expensive rooms available.

Also if you like the big stuff, Grand Traverse's Bay offers shelter from the Lake Michigan roughness and a suggested stop is Suttons bay and North Port on the west bay area. The weather changes quickly and I recommend a Marine Radio for Lake Michigan.

I know this is getting long, but this is one of many stories I find myself getting into with many other boaters that are shut in for the winter, except in the south. If you have any experiences on exciting all day boating trips or Great Lake Crossings, Waterways etc., E-Mail me your experiences and I will post them. Also be sure to check out boaters news groups which I have posted on the "Links Page".

Mark Cameron

Space for tips on your boating techniques

Thanks Mike for the mail, I dropped this in the techniques because of the idea of base camping and running politely around bass fisherman. This lake sounds great, I hope to launch in down there sometime soon. Take care and happy boating this summer! -Mark
 

I lost one of my keys once after ramping onto a river just above a small dam. After shoving off we started drifting towards the dam (which is a non controlled water fall type I forget the technical name) I wound up hot wiring the boat rather than fighting the current with oars. I had about 300 yards to spare. Now I start my boat while on the trailer and back off, doing away with the "getting shoved off without keys problem". The advice is well taken, I keep a spare key in my wallet for that just in case scenario. I haven't come across any parts catalogs for motors, there are exhaust manifolds for many engines (which usually fail after two years when used heavily in salt water) so your best bet is to contact your Force dealer, they may have a parts shop type of catalog that you may be able to order from or at least be able to supply you with the necessary rings and valve replacement parts, or whatever else you may need to rebuild. Good luck this winter ! -Mark
 

I would recommend contacting http://www.bysnet.com/portside/ for a Landau dealer for your Pontoon. They may have the recommended manuals. When running in salt water part time I would suggest flushing the engine as soon as you pull it out. Also hose down the entire water exposed craft which will rinse the salt off and will reduce the speed of the erosion. Make sure that before you put in salt water that you make sure all your throttle and stirring cables are well lubricated to reduce exposure to the salt water air and any splashes. Good luck and see out on Tampa Bay sometime! (where my picture above was taken) :) . -Mark
 

Glad to hear it worked out, the backing up is the hardest part! -Mark
 

I agree 100 %. Especially on a busy Sunday!  Running too much power while pulling onto the trailer can also cause small groups of fish to be pulled into the prop wash causing a deadly situation for the fish. A little thrust is all you need, otherwise back the trailer in a little more. Thanks for your input! -Mark
 

You may want to try a high power car wash type of spray but with a lot more pressure. Also check your marine store for legal chemicals that won't harm fiberglass that will help soak the items off. Different states have different chemicals available. If all else fails I would then ask the fiberglass specialist about sanding it off and relaying layers of fiberglass coated with epoxy. Once you are back in the water and if you don't trailer regularly it would be a good idea to wipe the boat down including the entire hull and engine compenents regularly to clear away the build up. Its easy to take up snorkeling and go under the hull on smaller boats while anchored off a cosy beach and use a mop type of handle to clean it off. If the weather is too cold I would recommend trailering it to clean it off regularly. Also don't forget to check into antifouling paint (avaialble in many areas of the U.S.).

-Mark

I wouldn't invest in trim tabs for your particular size of boat, but the hydrofoil will help reduce the speed you need to reach to get up in plane by a couple of miles per hour. Unfortunately you are running at speeds that just begin to put the boat up on a steady plane, especially at 18 miles per hour. With a lighter weight load it will be more steady at 18, but drop off when you are hauling passengers beyond your spotter. At speeds of 22 (with a hydro add on kit) you should wipe out the problem all together. If you are still encountering speed changes you may want to change your prop to a new pitch giving you more revolutions at the same speeds (this will cut down in your top end however). As far as your trip to the outer banks, you should have a marine radio, the usual safety gear, plenty of food in case of engine problems, a GPS or Loranz and good charts that indicate marinas and fueling stops. Thanks for the compliment on the site and have fun on your trip ! -Mark
 

There are thousands like us huh Fred ! Let me know how the Rough River Reservoir turns out, have a great 97!
 

I have heard of people sitting back for a full Sunday afternoon of entertainment down at the boat ramps! Its true, about discussing the process with your mate, and even practicing on a slow launch day. I have seen this demonstrated by a fishing club here in Columbus that meets on some Tuesdays where around 50 boats launch on four ramps in less time then it takes 8 to 10. One in the boat while the vehicle backs down, tilts engine in while hitting the water, starts engine, releases boat backs off, all while the trailer is moving backwards, brakes are hit and the truck pulls forward and the boat is out and away from the ramp and over to tempoary tie up, all in a matter of seconds. The traffic keeps moving, try that on a Sunday sometime! A little practice can gain a lot of speed and respect from for anyone waiting behind any boater!. Have fun next summer ! -Mark
 

Perry that water is "brine" which is fresh water saturated with salt. You should still flush for least amount of corrision. Even flushing on freshwater lakes is good practice to remove sand and mud which can build up in the engine. Your plans on the boat with the 200 HP OB engine should be easy to flush while even tilted out of the water (unlike stern drives). Some stern drive models have radiators that have coolant just like cars and don't cool with raw sea water. These units are popular with many salt water boaters since you have less engine corision with this setup. If you switch to stern drive model, check into this kind of cooling system. Local Marine dealers in Virginia are more than friendly when it comes to advice! -Mark.
 

The size of boat you are looking at is fine but be careful of bad weather!. I have been in the Hampton Roads area in January and as for the winter boating you should be fine. I would keep an eye out for cold weather patterns and watch water temperatures just in case of freezing problems, winters there do have a few cold spells, mostly ice though. Have a trailer handy in case of a real hard freeze, you could pull out and drain the necessary items, bilge etc. A cabin boat does require more work as far as winterizing, especially with holding tanks. You should store fresh water tanks with an RV type of antifreeze that is safe for the environment, and as far as the winter cabin goes, skip the bathroom / shower (if equipped) until March. Your wife is right as far as smaller boats go, they are easier, but a true boating hobbiest won't mind a little extra work!. The bottom paint is a must. Anti fowling paint (if I have that spelled correctly) will help prevent organisims from building up on the bottom of the boat and ultimately give you continued easy planes when running at higher speeds, especailly if it sits at a slip instead of on a trailer. Spend the extra money, its worth it!. -Mark
 

Boat fuel is measured in miles per gallon and / or gallons per hour, it would peak at about 25 or 30 or so depending on torque etc, so at that speed you might get about 2.5 miles per gallon or around 10-12 gallons per hour. Not the Geo Metro type of mileage, but the lighter the boat the more fuel miles it would have. You should go about 13 hours on a tank, unless your loaded down with passangers, or 120-140 miles. I suggest go out 1/3 then turn around and come back on the 2/3, leave yourself a good 1/3 tank for bad weather, currents or god forbid, emergencies. -Mark
 

Outboards are easier to winterize than I/Os so here are a few tips, of course you should always refer to a manual. Most people will hook up the engine to a water hose using cups (available for about 4 dollars at Walmart) start the engine and squirt oil into the carberator for a few minutes and then stalling it out. The smoke it generates coats the entire inside of the engine and exhaust helping to reduce rust. Others may take out each of the plugs and squirt oil in the cylinders and turn over the crank a few times (if a hose isn't available). Next take the battery out and clean the contacts, remove the tank and stablize any stored fuel (with a stabilizer available at most marine and auto stores (on I/Os pour some in your tank on your last outting so it gets into the fuel line as well). Next obtain the proper gear oil (I use Quick Silver High Performance on mine), and open the screw on the lower part of the engine just above the skeg where it drains the gear oil. Also open the top screw this will help all the oil to drain out. This is a great time to remove any water that may be in the casing and eliminate a chance for cracking from ice. The process is slow but worth it. Then pump oil in from the bottom with a gear oil pump (available at all marine dealers). When the oil reaches the top hole you are done (newer boats with reservoirs need to be topped off as well). Remove the pump, pump some into the top (which the level may be a little low with a few air bubbles), and your gear oil is changed!. Next I recommend storing the trailer in a tilted postion so any moisture will run out the back, and leave the drain hole unplugged. (some boats have exhuast manifolds that must be drained for winter storing or pumped with anti freeze, other should have an anti freeze change depending on the type of I/O unit). Next Jack the trailer so the wheels don;t get a flat spot, check your trailer bearings, re torque your lug nuts, and lube any necessary parts (ie. power tilt if applicable, check reservoir). You may also want to coat your steering lines and throttle linkages with special lube 101 (some use WD40) to make sure the lines are working properly. Plan to spend an afternoon and then in the spring you will be ready to be back out on the lake by hooking up the tank and battery and you're set. -Mark

I have seen that experience more than once even on personal watercraft. If you have enough time and are not weighed down by too much water on the boat you can usually get up to plane and with a little trim you can nose up and dump out the water, especially helpful along with the bilge pump. I strongly recommend to trailer the boat unless you have the plug with you and in that case pull up on a beach where you're not in mud and then screw it in. Other wise if you are weighed down its bucket time or swim!   -Mark

I have heard of first experiences like these many times. I think you may want to tune up your engine however, it shouldn't stall during a complete stop from a full throttle. Have all your filters and the timing checked. A new set of plugs and wires would help decrease gas consumption. As far as backing the boat, a secret to the first time out is to take it out on a weekday by yourself or with a first mate and get the feel of backing, launching, trailering and operation (weekdays are great for this, there is never anyone around to watch you make a few mistakes). Then you will have a feel of whats coming up when the whole family and friends are there watching the christening. In your case I would reschedule the christening, after a couple of pratice runs and a tune up!  I must admit one thing I did do last summer as far as stalling goes, I was running my 18ft open bow out on Grand Traverse Bay when the weather was changing, causing some 3-5 foot waves to roll in. I hooked up my safety cut-off switch to my belt and managed to take the boat out to the Old Mission Light House, about 6 miles from Elk Rapids. We got out to the tip, staying about 500 yards from shore to avoid the Shoals (rocks), and when I stood up after stopping the engine cut off. I was thinking to my self and caused concern to my kids, that the engine wouldn't restart and we will have to drift back to shore which may take hours. Then I remembered the cutoff switch, and luckily got the now flooded engine started. Fortunately I had a cellular phone and a GPS along to call for help in case the waves got any worse. I rarely boat on Lake Michigan, I like to stay more inland, but my oldest daughter had to see that lighthouse! (quite spectacular at sunset !).

I will look into developing a new section for first time buyers, and be sure to ask your wife if she would give it another chance after a few pratice runs. Also be sure to look into a Boaters Safety course, Good luck on your next run Clay! -Mark

John, you need to have your friends take a little walk once its trailer time. Have one drive the boat up to the trailer once you have dunked and then have him or her walk it out with you. I find that launching has been easier by doing it by myself. I back in (after straps and plugs are checked bower on etc.) and wait to see the back of the boat floating. Then I go back to the boat and disconnect the winch and back it off, dock and then park the van. Trailering is easy by yourself when your not busy analysing suggestions from everyone!. I dock, back the trailer in unitl about 6 inches of carpet is showing (or top wheels just sticking out for roller models). Then I drive up and shut the engine down and tilt up. Then I winch the boat on about a foot or so (occassionally I thrust up when and where its legal, but thrusting can damage the guide if you hit it too hard, plus you don't want to make a fish milkshake in case a school of fish happen to be in the ramp area which is comon in the late summer). I Winch and I am out of there. Later I strap, drain the engine and remove the drain plug, wipe down cover and check the bearings, lights, and I am out of there. Other people have their own methods of trailering such has always having a first mate around, where two people can save time as long as a method is discussed a head of time, (I've-seen it done in under 3-minutes). Good luck John on your next run!

E-Mail

Joanne

If you want to be the fastest, have more punch when towing skiers, and enjoy that extra power when you need it, the few extra dollars is worth it as long as your budget allows it. You will drink gas faster but mostly at extreme speeds. Standard just above wake speeds (20 - 25 knots) will not make much of any difference.   Your resale percentage value will be better as well. On the other hand  if you are not out to be the fastest, rarely tow or carry several passangers, and run frequently on rough waters, then you may want to save and go with the smaller engine, (since probably you won't be using the higher end rpms as much). Your resale percentage however will be slightly lower.  Both engines are reliable from my experiences, however break them in by varying your speed for the first 20 hours or so of running time. I have known a few BAJA dealers who have gunned a  new engine and burned out the gears on the outdrive in undcr one hour of break-in..  Still under warranty but brings on delays which can ruin a boating trip.  -Mark

The octane has little impact on hesitation. 89 at less than 2000 feet above sea level is ideal and recommended in order to get cleaner fuel. Above 2000 feet gas burns differently and doesn't need as much octane and 87 or in some cases even less is sufficient, (such as Lake Dillon in Colorado that is over 5000 feet above sea level). However you also may have some bad gas too. First fill your boat up with 89 (I recommend Marathon or Shell), and when on the water after warming up and running a little try taking off back to 3/4 of a throttle or so. If after your second or third fill up you still have hesitation then what you have most likely is a timing problem. It may need to be  advanced a degree or two.  Then since yoru boat is brand new and under warranty  I would recommend taking it back to the dealer for a timing check and or adjustment. Good luck and have a great summer boating!.
 
 
 
 

I have to say you ran into a bit of luck buying property and getting a boat thrown in. Make sure before you float to read on and check out the trailering tips and operating techniques. Above all make sure you have the necessary life jackets, fire extinguisher, safety flag, horn, navigation lights, bilge ventilation, flame arrestor and any other legal requirements for safe boating in your state and then you are ready to head out, and once out watch for the no wake and wake zones and respect distances from other boats and you are ready. Let me know how your first time out turns out!  -Mark
 

Starcraft is well known in the midwest and parts of the south. I haven't heard of anyting negative. The only concern about the incident without the plug is that your engine and and sterring cables weren't submerged. If they were then you should re-lubricate all the lines and fog the engine. But if it was only the haul, aside from any possible metal screws, which even then was probably another form of mostly non corrosive metal, you shouldn't worry about it. As a precaution I would rinse out the bildge area with good old fashion tap water. Last, there are blue books on boats, check with your local marine dealer for specs, most sales reps are more than happy to help out.  -Mark
 

I am always looking forward to hearing from technicians.  Please feel free to check our BBSs linkable from the front page anytime.  Many boaters  stopping by Boating America may at one time or another need your advise!.  -Mark
 
 

I would suggest checking with the Gwinnett Court House and see if your neighborhood has any zoning restrictions. If they do you will probably have to contact an attourney for legal options, (of course you will also want to check with the state of Georgia, so it would probably be safe to hire an attourney for the few dollars it would cost, it would be a good investment before sinking 50 to 250 thousand for a houseboat). It will also be costly to put the houseboat in the pond, unless it leads into the river directly. Let me know what happens! -Mark
 

Deadrise is the measurement of the angle between the bottom of a boat and its widest beam. A vessel with a 0º deadrise has a flat bottom, high numbers indicate deep V shaped hul. In a nut shell, you have a deep V, which cuts through the choppier water better than say a 0º which would be a really flat surface and giving you the feel of every little ripple in the water, and one foot waves or more a bone shaking ride. The deep V tends to cut the waves and push the water a-part smoothing out the chop. The deeper the angle the smoother the ride, however too much will cause the boat to tilt to the side when the weight in the boat shifts left or right of the center. 24 degrees is a good angle and also helps the boat give a stable ride even when the weight shifts to the side. Plus you will see nearly all manufacturers change the shape or angle measurement between front and back of the hull to give you less chance of boat roll over in the event the motor turns to one side at full throttle, and have the appearance of a Boston Whaler design in the back 1/3 still providing a smooth ride at 35 mph + speeds at proper engine tilt. Have fun in your new boat this coming season! -Mark
 

I have heard of rivet heads coming off as aluminum boats age, especially around salt water. You need to dry dock the boat, and have a specialist inpect it for possible repair. If the condition of the surface is good (not dented, cracked, bent or has too much corrision) then it may be repairable. My family has had the same aluminum row boats since the 60s which at this minute are sitting upside down on a beach in Traverse City, Michigan and probably being run over by snowmobiliers as you read this. To this date I don't think they have lost a rivet yet. It would be worth repairing if repairable. Good luck ! -Mark
 

DIck, it sounds like your rod that turns your distributor may be damaged causing a irregular spin like a tire out of bounce, this may be why your metal might be wearing more on one side. You will probably have to remove the rod or gear that turns your distributor and inspect the gears and any other components related to the shaft, inspecting for anything bent etc.. It will probably be cheaper to repair it rather then install fuel injection. Fuel injection is more fuel efficient and gives you improved performance, if you are up for the cost it may be worth your while! Good Luck and let us know what happens! -Mark
 

The cavitation plate is part of the Anode usually towards the rear of the engine. It probably will not effect performance but may cause corrision problems later. An aftermarket anode part (if that is what your unit uses as a plate) will probably be cheaper than paying someone to weld it. I have seen them in aftermarket as low as $ 9.95. However check with your honda dealer for advice. You may want to visit their site at http://www.honda-marine.com for more information. Skegs are also an item that gets broken while backing. They can in almost all cases be welded. -Mark
 

I checked and couldn't locate anything on Fibreform, but you can find plenty of information on the engines at http://www.mercurymarine.com/ . They should be able to locate a Candian dealer near you for manuals. -Mark
 

I plan on winterization in November. I have stored mine outside in the past but recently have cleaned out the garage and it stays just above freezing. First: if the steering is loose but has no play, then you are fine, some boats have power steering, but if it has play contact your Mercruiser / Rinker Dealer for advice, bleeding should be done by a professional (or at least step by step device). Otherwise may wind up with more play then when you started. Two: only do this if you are finding play at high speeds, or while out of the water see if the steering has any play. Three: the drifting or swerving back and fourth is normal at low speeds when the trim is all the way up in shallow areas. Install a depth sounder and keep your trim in most of the way when possible, a depth sounder helps you to avoid hitting the skeg on the bottom (once you realize your getting into shallow water readings). This will reduce the swerving, my boat does the same thing at idle and I have gotten used to it now by habbit, (but the trimming helps).

Winterization requires (at least as a precaution against freezing) the draining and replacing the outdrive oil. But first pour fuel stable liquid into the gas tank and fill it nearly full with plus type of high quality gasoline. Then run a garden hose to your engine (you will need a special engine attachment which pumps water into the intakes on the lower part of your outdrive), start the engine with the hose running, and fog it by pouring oil right into your carberator and letting the smoke from your exhaust coat all the components inside your engine, I use a full quart and pour it in little by little so the engine doesn' t stall, and then completely stall it out as I near the end of the quart. Then drain your block, if your block freezes in the winter then your will have damage to your engine, possibly so extreme that you will have to replace it. There are two plugs on the four cylinder located on the right underside of your carberator manifold, one is actually on the engine wall, the other on the manifold and are recognized by the brass type of plug. I drain mine everytime I pull out of the lake. Drain this after the fogging process, then lower and raise your outdrive to get the water out. Next shut off your ignition safety switch (located near your throttle), and crank the engine several times to push any remaining water out. I also suggest pulling your boat around the block which will prevent puddeling (of course have your bilge plug off). Then do your outdrive oil. The oil is thick so the process will take a while. Use Quicksilver drive oil on Mercrusier, they make two types, a standard mixture and a heavier mixture (check your manual for which type to use) and will take about two quarts. You need to obtain a pump kit at your marine dealer which screws into the top of the oil container, and pump it in from the bottom of the outdrive. Once the oil flows out of the top plug (at the top of your outdrive), then you cap the bottom plug and then fill your reservoir in the engine compartment so you have a good flow out of the top plug. Seal the top plug and level the reservoir and the outdrive is safe for the winter and ready for spring. Be sure to watch your reservoir in the spring as it will lower after the air bubbles in the oil settle. Trim your engine down (to prevent the gimble bearing from freezing in a trimmed positions) Disconnect your battery and store it in your garage or place where it will be a little above freezing. Do not store it in your house, acid fumes are unhealthy. Next drain your engine oil and replace the oil filter (its easy and just like doing it in a car), use 25W 40 Quicksilver which is recommended in most Mercruiser applications, it will keep your warranty in tack. Lubricate your plugs on the left and right side of your outdrive with quicksilver lubricants, and your throttle and steering linkages with special lube 101. Last but not least re-tighten your lugnuts on your trailer, and put it on jack stands to prevent tire rot. Check your bearings or bearing buddies to make sure there is plenty of lubrication. On bearing buddies you should be able to push down on one side of the plastic bleeder tube which helps to repack the greese. If there is no play then pump boat trailer grease into the plugs on the bearings until the bleeder moves just a little, (this should be done everytime you submerse or re-fuel on long trips). Too much will cause the grease to run out and splatter your wheels. Repack the buddies every five years. Thats about it, your are now ready for storage and spring. PS some people like to inject anti-freeze into the engine for prolong storage in winter and spring, it is important to get the right mixture of antifreeze in the system. Check with your dealer on advice for your climate. Also if your engine has a passive cooling system (found more in salt water ready engines) the winterization process will be a little different. Have a great fall season boating! - Mark.
 

Too much trim can have an effect on Torque steering. Trimming in more will help, plus look at weight distribution in the boat, (such as all passengers or weight on one side), or if you are in a high cross wind, you will run into steering pull. Choose a calm day with no wind, distribute the weight evenly on one side, then take a run and adjust your trim or tilt, and your keel. You should be able to find the happy medium. If all else fails, check your engine and make sure it mounted level. -Mark
 

I can think of a couple of possibilities. First make sure your trim is set lower. If the trim is too high it will cavitate on turns and also when the boat is loaded heavy in the front. If you are loading 8 people on board, try a run alone and see if the problem still exists Second remove your prop, check to make sure the teeth are not stripped, if they are, replace the necessary parts and the prop. If it still slips, you whould remove and inspect the outdrive, of course with the help of a good mechanic and a manual (Chilton's is one good source available at most marine shops). Good luck and see you on the lake! -Mark
 

The Muskingum River is Ohio's only navagable inland waterway (fully inside the state) where all its locks, some dating back to the early 1800s are still hand cranked. There are 11 locks starting with Ellis (just south of Dresdin and about every 5 - 10 miles apart all the way south to Marietta. You can launch on the river free at Riverside Park in Zanesville (south of Ellis which is shallow anyway), and start locking at Zanesville at the 5th St. Bridge. The park office is at this lock and you can purchase an annual pass for $35 (as of last year). The locks are only open on weekends and I would suggest calling the ODWC to make sure all the locks are open before venturing out. The river is 5 feet deep on average and shallower below the locks. Check with each lock master for directions around shallow spots. An early Saturday Morning start can make the round trip possible in two days, lock operaters radioed ahead to the other lock operators the last time I made the trip so the locks were set to raise and lower us at the time we arrived reducing locking delay time. Locks south of Ellis include Zanesville, Philo (about 7 miles south of Zanesville), Rockerby Lock, McConnelsville/Malta, Stockport (bat capitol of southeast Ohio) and Beverly many with picnic facilities. Fishing is excellent, a fish caught near the Beverly locks was used in the movie Grumpier Old Men II. I was out in Alum Creek Thusday evening checking out the TNT competition weigh-in, and will probably be out again a week from Sunday, if I see your boat I will be sure to wave! -Mark
 

I live for a buritto at Dockside ! My kids also like the little indoor shuffleboard game!. Being a formal resident of Birch Lake I have been to several Harbor Days which do have great fireworks!. However this year I won't be able to get up there until August 18th, a little late for the fest, but I still like those sunset cruises to the Old Mission Lighthouse Point (well away from the shoals though), and may head out to Northport if the lake is calm. Last year I made the Cherry Festival, Blue Angles had a great show out on the west bay!. Glad to ehar that you have all the bugs out of that 27 footer!. Sea Ray makes a great line, but maintenance is a must!. I  highly recommend the Crooked Tree - Burt Lake etc. based on what I have heard and read. I plan on running part of that chain while I am up there. Also for boating on a smaller scale the Intermeidate Lake - Wilson Lake etc. is also great, but a little shallow during dry seasons. The scenery is spectacular along with the fishing. Thanks for writing and please keep in touch and let me know how things are up there near T.C.. -Mark
 

I have run a boat with a hydrofoil, and found that it helps to plane at a slightly lower speed, but has less effect at high speeds. The main benefit is the ability to gain speed quicker since you will plane around 13-15 (speeds may very among brands of boats and hydrofoils) and power up faster since the engine isn't working as hard to plane. It also improves handling at slower speeds and reduces porpesing (the bobbing up and down usually at speeds below the 30 when trimmed to high). Its an inexpensive way to give a little kick to your performance and different hydrofoils will very, some cost as little as $24.95 and others (which claim a better holeshot on a speed prop and better turnging at higher speeds) will reach into the $ 100 plus range. If you are into heavy turning while pulling a tube or into a little more performance, and have been boating for at least two years (where most boaters start to get the real feel of performance) then you may want to give it a try!. -Mark
 

I would recommend using plus octane gas, check your plugs, timing etc. propellor, and also your carry-ons. Some people tend to collect things on their boat which wind up weighing things down and reducing your speed. Last but not least the weather can have a slight effect of a mile and hour or two, more humid air intaking in the carberator reduces speed and less humid cooler air (which is a more dense air) will give you maximum performance. This is what I have noticed over several years in boating, ie. northern Michigan I run about 42 in 75 degree weather and Columbus, Ohio I max at about 39 in 90 degree weather on a four cylinder. Good luck and have a great summer on the water ! -Mark
 

I haven't heard of such a site, but sounds like a good idea. If anyone can run a copy off for Chris please e-mail him! Most repair shops that have been around for years and years usually can get access to manuals, and in some cases you may be able to locate a Chilton's manual at a local library in a county that has lakes and navigable rivers. -Mark
 

That compression ratio sounds good for an 8 cylinder, it would be around 9.0 to 1 or higher on a four cyclinder. I would suggest checking the exhaust manifold for leaks and corrision, if it is a fresh water engine this would be a proper indicator for corrision. More corrision indicates more running and or salt water running. Check the plugs, points etc. If possible take the water pump off where you can peak at the cylinder wall area. If chipping is noted then engine trouble may be a problem soon. As far as parts and manuals contact their website at www.bertram.com . -Mark
 

I dug around and found a little about the OUPV at http://www.chapman.org/uscg.html . I would recommend getting the names of companies that provides the transfers and contact them via fax or e-mail. Good luck on your course! See ya at Senaca Lake sometime! -Mark
 

The specs. are right, you shouldn't be over-revving on your engine. 4800 rpm is about the right rpm range for the 3.0 and should have you doing around 37-40 on a 17" prop. If you are at lower speeds you may need to consider a 19" prop. If you are doing better than 42-44 you are OK, (you must be running a light load). A possible throttle linkage adjustment (depending on your model) should allow you to prevent the throttle from going above 4800 rpm. I have a 3.0 and run a 19" Michigan Prop. I reach about 40 with a full fuel tank at about 4600 rpm. I would not go above a 19" prop or you could cause excessive wear on your engine. It sounds like the high five might be the problem. I also recommmend an aluminum prop over stainless for shallow running. It saves your drive shaft from a hard jolt when you strike an object. They are also in the $120 to $160 range. If you run into many objects, there are composits available at half the cost of aluminum. The cost of two aluminums are about one stainless. You can have one for skiing, say a 17" and one for speed or 19". Good luck in your prop hunt! -Mark
 

There have been improvements to many engines over the last few years; electronic ignition, change of gear ratios, fuel injection, etc.. Its not unusual to see horsepower increases. The least expensive way to increase high-end is propellor change. A speed prop will give you a little more high end by two or three miles per hour. The other extreme is a new engine or outdrive with a different gear ratio. If you are really experienced you may be able to relpace the carb with a modified unit. On the other hand I know a few lakes with a 180 HP limit, and would settle for a V6 with a 180 or less rating just to legally run them. Good luck on your decision ! -Mark
 

I haven't heard of any power problems with this unit, (I have the same type). Several factors could be present, the hard wake could have thrown the timing off which is the result of an easily movable distributor, check to make sure it is tight. It could be where the kids were sitting on the boat, if they were in an open bow it could cost you about three or four miles per hour on the high end. The winds here in Ohio have been strong, I have noticed a three mile per hour increase going downwind, and about a two to three mile an hour decrease upwind. Also check the fuel filter, flame arrestor and throttle linkage to make sure there isn't anything loose or access slippage. You also may have a little water in the tank (if it was stored outside over the winter it could be a factor). I also recommend Shell Plus gas, a little more expensive, but a slightly better grade can help reduce the chance of a clogged fuel filter. Hope you enjoyed Seneca Lake, I should be making a run there again sometime in June, see you on the water ! -Mark
 

That sounds like the right speed for 4600 rpm. The only thing I would consider would be the run the proper fuel with a step up in the octane and make sure the engine is properly tuned up. You should gain an extra mile an hour or two, but 50 would require either a larger prop (which may bog the engine down) or a more expensive modification to the engine. There are manufacturers that produce a thru the transom exhaust but you rarely find them on four cylinder engines. Some states are now requiring a quiet running engine to take effect in the next three years. So a loud engine will soon become illegal (with the exception of the grandfather rule, check with your local division of watercraft for more information). -Mark
 

I agree on the marine floatation foam. It would make your hull stronger and prevent the possiblilty of a fully submerged boat in the event of an incident (god forbid). I have several friends that have also replaced their floors. It is almost like a partial rebuild. Carpeting can also trap moisture and the best preventative maintenance is to dry the boat out after every run in the rain with a wet vac, and let it sit in direct sunlight where it can catch a breeze on a dry day. In my case with the kids are jumping in and out of the boat dripping water everywhere I have found that plenty of heavy fluffy towels can reduce the amount the carpet soaks in helping to reduce mold and mildew build up which can eat away at a wood floor. I even put large bags around the exposed seat cushions during rainy weather. This prolongs the cushion life by years. Keep a good mooring cover on the boat when not in use and get inside storage if at all possible and your boat will look new and have less floor rot plus less mold build up for years and years. -Mark
 

The next time I stop by Lake Havasu will be sure to run a few extra miles and check it out ! -Mark
 

Lake Erie is one of the most unpredictable lakes to boat on. The famous Noreasters (winds that pop-up from the east can be quite and experience for the novice boater (unless you like steep 5-7 foot swells). It is not impossible but not recommended. On the other hand, if you are like me and would attempt it anyway, take the long way, hug the shoreline, have good charts to warn you of the shoals, follow a larger boat and keep a sharp eye and an ear on the weather and wave heights with a marine radio. A straight shot would be about 35 miles by the time you round Ottawa, or about 60 miles hugging the shoreline (but you would get to see Toledo!). A straight shot would only be best in the early morning while the weather is calm. Be flexable so you will be out on the lake when the conditions are right, and not crossing on a forced schedule that may be in rough weather. If possible plan the time with a weather map, boating when no cold fronts are in the area, or spread out isobars representing calm winds. Being a little analytical can give you a safe and calm ride. After all those rollercoasters at Cedar Point the last thing you need will be choppy conditions! -Mark
 

Thanks for the tips!. DRI-Z-AIR is a great idea. I have been using them for a while, and its very helpful in humid climates. On the four stroke verses two stroke, the four strokes are much cleaner and with strict pollution laws the U.S. Gov. has passed on to boating manufactureres the four stroke is here to stay. It does run smoother but the pick up is poorer then a two stroke. Some manufacturers have developed a two stroke fuel injected model for more precise fuel injection reducing fuel loss and pollution. But as a skier I prefer a strong outboard two stroke as far as outboards go. For economy and speed the four stroke is much better especially at high end performance. I talked to a Honda Marine dealer here in Central Ohio and apon inspecting the motor it is basiclly a marine modified honda civic engine turned sideways. A little more expense, but less pollution, better economy, and its like maintaining a car engine and as reliable if maintained regularly. I would recommend back issues of Trailer Boating Magazine for recent comparisions. -Mark
 

The speed is about right for your current prop. A prop with a higher degree of pitch is about the only option you have. It should give you an extra three or four miles per hour. The hull design is about the only thing that woudl hold back the speed. Electronic ignition may improve fuel economy but not have much effect on your top end with your current prop, but may wind your engine at the same high RPM with a higher pitch prop, possibly hitting the mid 40s. Most likely it will be in the lower 40s. -Mark
 

Thanks for your input! -Mark
 

You are in goon shape on the Crown Vic. It is one of the few cars that are still safe for towing. If your car is hard to control and has extra bounce while towing then I would consider improvements in the suspension. The transmission cooler and overload springs were also a good move, almost mandatory. The Ford 5.0 litre engine is fine for long trips. My full size conversion Ford E-150 also has the 5.0 and I haul my boat all over the eastern U.S.. A pick up is great for towing as well, but I would always recommend a 3.4 ton and four wheel drive for a future purchase, this allows you to upgrade your size of boat (when you find yourself outgrowing your 18 foot). -Mark.
 

I love Michigan boating and can never get enough of it. I have found parking to be tight, but that happens almost anywhere on a weekend. Be sure to visit the Michigan page on Michigan's inland lakes, it also have a link to every class of boat ramp on all lakes in Michigan. I will have to check out Chippewa Lake, it sounds like a great retreat from the choppy bays. Have a safe and happy boating in 97! -Mark
 

I am the same way Mike (about trailerboating) I have towed to lakes all over the midwest and have visited many in the southwest. One Sunday I trailered to three different lakes and a river. I also trailer frequently to Alum Creek Reservoir in the Galena / Coumbus area (I am just five minutes from there and Griggs /O'Shaughnessy), maybe I will catch you one of these days here in Ohio!. Thanks for the class info. plug! Let me know when you get your site up and I will link it in our links page, have a safe and great summer boating for upcoming '97! -Mark
 

Make sure that you check with the vehicle's manufacturer on the recommended modifactions for towing 2500 pounds. Most mini vans will pull up to 2000 pounds with some designed (based on suspension modifications, gear ratios and engine size) to pull more. Also make sure you outfit it with a Class II hitch (up to 3500 pounds). I see many mini vans pulling boats out of ramps with little problem, its the Sidekicks that give me a chuckle!. In fact you will have less trouble with a front wheel drive if your tounge weight is low, and if its a little heavy have a few people set on the back of the boat while pulling out (carefully). Also you can reduce the worry of wheel spin by looking for a shallower ramp that has a less steep grade, that has low traffic (so the surface isn't too wet). Good luck on your new hobby, the boating bug will get you this summer! -Mark
 

Art, I would suggest a 27 foot pleasure I/O boat that runs on gas with a 300 - 415 hp (ie. Mercruiser 7.4 litre engine / Magnum 502 on some models). Gas is readily available at most marinas especially if you are on a inland lake. I checked a few of these out at the Sports Vacation Travel Show in Columbus last weekend, marine dealers had units from Four Winns, Sea Ray and Rinker and the units have room for a 6'1" guy like to stand up in the cabin without having to bend my neck. These are about the largest trailerable boats you would want buy (without going into professional towing). You would run on about 70-100 gallons of fuel and hold anywhere from 40 - 70 (give or take a little) gallons of water/gray and/or black. These boats can come with a microwave, sink, bathroom with a small shower, room for four to sleep, and in some cases a generator and even an A/C. Its not a boat you would want to live on but great for camping out in the Northwest. You can find boats like this down to about 24 feet. Below that the cuddies are much more cramped. You would need a large tow vehicle to tow it (ie. a Ford Expedition would tow about 8000 pounds, plenty for a boat in this size range). You should consider a GPS or Loranz / Depth Sounder and VHF Marine radio and a small radar unit if you want to travel in bad weather. Marine radios can run as little as $ 149, Radars just under $ 2000, and GPS $200 to $2000. A depth finder is a must and comes with many of the newer boats in this size. I have heard of one trailerable diesel boat but couldn't find any specs at this time. Being in your seventies should not stop you! This is the time to enjoy a hobby like this! Let me know what you decide on, -Mark
 

Miles per gallon can very depending on weight of the boat and the hull design, where weight is placed on the boat etc.. 175 Johnson will deliver in the neighborhood of 3.3 miles per gallon at 3000 RPM which should be around 22-25 miles per hour, or about 7.2 gallons per hour. If you run about 4000 RPM at 35 miles per hour you would only drop to 3 miles per gallon. This is figured on 90% capacity on an 18 foot boat. On a 190 to 200 horse power you will see performance pick up and in some case mileage. At the 2500 RPM you will go faster at 24.6 (where 175 hp will deliver 13.5 miles per hour) and increase gas mileage at 4.8 miles per gallon or 5.2 gallons per hour. I don't have any data on the 150 hp but the mpg would be even lower. 150 is more ideal for smaller lakes. Overall you have about an extra mile per hour at lower RPM with less fuel consumption on a bigger engine on an 18 foot boat. On the other hand the bigger engine sometimes causes skippers to run faster and play around with the extra horsepower and consume more fuel than a smaller engine!. In your case, on a trip from Montana to New Orleans the extra mileage it is well worth the higher horsepower motor. Again your results could be different and for best mileage information see your dealer. Lastly you should find ample fuel stops along many points of the Missouri and the Mississippi. You can also enjoy the numerous historical sites along the way especially in North and South Dakota. Someday I hope to have a complete list of river stopping points as our research into the great American Inland Lakes and Rivers continue. I am not sure how deep in Montana you can run before you run out of locks or get into a shallow area. One person I checked with said Fort Peck Lake. I have heard of farther west, and found a link that someone wrote on a canoe trip that they took on the upper Missouri River at http://www.kscon.com/actmiss.html . The pictures at this site are great. Have fun on your trip!. Mark.

I haven't heard any negatives on Force. Johnson has been around longer and has a well deserved reputation, and parts are easy to come by. However Force has made parts readily available over the past several years. With proper maintenance on either brand you should be OK. -Mark

Update me on your site when its up ! -Mark
 

There should be a bleed valve that should help rid of air bubbles. It might be a gravity drain type where you open the bleed valve and let the fluid run out and at the same time watch the air bubbles spurt out. Some may have to be pressure filled where no air is exposed. You should check with your Nissan dealer for more information. -Mark
 

You need to call Glastron at (612) 632-5481 or fax them at (320) 632-1439. Volvo engine parts are readily available in the U.S. and Europe. Verrigni Marine in Boca Raton, Florida has a large supply at 1-800-88-VOLVO. -Mark
 

First and above all else take a safe boating course. Your E-Mail address shows Guam. If you have boat shows there should be several booths containing information on courses and gathering brochures for boat manufacturers. Also subscribe to a boating magazine. Also try renting a boat and see if you get bitten by the boating bug. Renting is a great way to get experience before you purchase your own boat. Also see if a local marina has a bulletin board where you can post a message about wanting advice or insturction on motor boating and or sailing. I couldn't live on an island without having a boat! -Mark
 

Thanks for the information! I don't know where my mind was when I covered that lake. I must have misread the information. I didn't know it had 14000 islands. I will have to plan this on my next Minnesota run! -Mark
 

I am looking at that same boat, probably be a few more years, but thats one I am studying closely. A 25 foot is great for small families, two adults and two kids. Or four adults on a short trip. They sleep well, and it is the most (if you would pardon a little youth coming out of me) "awsome" feeling spending your first night on your boat. The rocking sensation of a calm lake (just a little movement) is relaxing. The only drawback to any boat under 30 feet is being couped up with more than four people for an extended period of time. If your a couple, you will never get tired of it. Traveling is now open territory. With an open bow, you had to run from the weather, so sleeping on board was risky (waking up in the middle of the night ot rain!). With this boat, who cares about the weather (except for being in the middle of a great lake). If it rains, you just anchor and go below, day or night. I plan on using mine to travel down the Ohio to the Mississippi, and do some lake hopping in Canada. So as far as comfort goes, as long its not crowded on board, sleeping is no problem, be sure to lay down in one of the beds before you purchase the boat to make sure you are comfortable, and be ready for new items like possibly a generator, fresh, gray & black water storage. Have Fun ! -Mark
 

Usually the shape of the hull can have a lot to do with how much backwash will enter the boat. The manufacturer may feel that the well is not needed in its particular design. I have seen several designs and I have also seen trouble with water splashing into the boat when the trim was set wrong. My favorite design is with the engine well receding into the boat exactly where it sits. You can access the engine better while in the boat (great when stuck out on the water) and not have to worry about sliding off into the water while standing in the well area. Every manufacturer seems to have OB engine mounts in different spots. As to why, (I asked an engineer at a local marine shop) "its the engineers design, and the hull has a lot ot do with it, plus a well less boat gives you more on board space." -Mark
 

Don, I check around and no one has heard of MS oil. It probably stands for a Marine grade oil. Mercruiser requires a 25W 40 for its 4 cylinder engines, and recommends Quick Silver. If you run the engine hard most of the time then I would use a heavier weight oil. 10W30 sounds too lite for a marine engine unless you run in very cold weather. Marine engines have constant thrust unlike car engines which coast and doesn't break down the oil as fast. But if the manual calls for that weight you should probably stick to it. Pennzoil is a good choice. I would suggest talking to a Marine dealer that handles Volvo engines before you change. Here is a webpage address for a Volvo Dealer you could E-Mail at the Maine Network. -Mark.
 

Perry, I miss those trailers too. I myself do not have an answer as to why they are hard to find. I have a float up trailer as well, and it works great with a good boat ramp, but there have been times where I would like to launch from smaller lakes that have just a beach for a ramp and found myself, the boat, and vehicle stuck and needing a tow out. You can self launch from a good ramp (as long as you have a place to dock while you park the tow vehicle and trailer). It probably is a safety concern, such as climbing a steep hill and the having a part (ie. winch cable) breaking causing the boat to roll off onto the road (which can happen with any roller trailer), rear end collisions etc.. I would suggest checking in the news group Rec.Boats and post the question there, you might find some interesting answers. Don't give up on boating though, with improved technological advances on trailers such as underwater lighting, bearing buddies, better paint jobs, the situation has improved. Here is a number of some popular trailer and trailer accessory companies. Shelby Industries sells accessories at 502-633-2040 and Prestige Trailers Inc. might have an idea why they are hard to find, you can write them at 500 South Madison St. Du Quoin, Il. 62832. Let me know if you find one!  -Mark.
 

Thanks for the trip info Jay. I hear so much about the Tennessee River from e-mail and boaters whom have taken the trip that I will have to run it sometime soon myself. Have fun and hope to see you along the river sometime soon! -Mark
 

I talked to a couple of trailer boaters in the New Port Richey, Florida area about this one. Most of them seem to suggest applying a protective coating on all metal exposed such as nuts and bolts, etc. Salt water does cause corrision faster than fresh water, and rinsing the trailer as well as flushing the engine with fresh water is a must for longevity. The newer the trailer the better painted it is, therefore if you rinse after pulling out I would think it wouldn't cause any problems especially if its only three or four times a year. The main thing is to inspect your trailer for any cracks in the paint, and put a protective coating over it, the coating may be touch up paint, a environmentally safe form of grease, etc. The main problem even on newer trailers are the leaf springs. Springs are easy to replace but if they break they can stop a trip from being a successful one. You should coat the springs before you launch in salt water. Also it is helpful to carry a good C-Clamp in case a leaf spring breaks on the highway, (a temporary fix). Also be sure to check your bearings and trailer brakes (if equipped) after pulling out of salt water. Over all these steps will help prevent corrsion on a trailer. Have a safe fall boating!
 

I was up in Elk Rapids again this summer, and had a great time. It was a little chilli, Traverse City had the Blue Angels Jet show over the west bay and the Cherry festival was in full swing, Murdicks still sells fudge. I Ran a trip from Elk Rapids to Belaire (as I do every other year) and back, I still like to stop at the Dockside Restaurant at the mouth of Clam lake off Torch. The water is as clear as ever. There still is a great sand bar near the Torch River from Torch Lake where about 50 of us boaters got together and had a cook out (cooking on a rented Pontoon). The Grass River is still as scenic and nature protected as ever with a nice hiking trail accessible by boat just at the entrance on the north tip of Clam. Elk Rapids looks great, the theater is still running, the Marina is clean, well kept, and most of the stores are in operation. I grew up there (on Birch Lake) in the summers and wish that summer months were three months longer so I could enjoy it more! The Elk River Inn hasn't changed a bit, however I don't know if they still have a seafood night, I will check the next time I get up there, they still have slips too.

Sorry about firing up those memories, but the Grand Traverse Region is a must visit the next time you visit Michigan. Traverse City is growing in leaps and bounds, with several new hotels along the east bay, one of the best are the condos at Grand Traverse Resort Hotel, also featuring a PGA course and major concerts in the summer months. Downtown Traverse and the zoo look almost the same, the zoo has added a few small items, and a nice steam operated train (to replace that old gas unit) in a small scale. also a couple of malls have popped up along with a couple of high class casinos. Sleeping Bear Dunes hasn't changed a bit.

Thanks for the E-Mail and be sure to drop a line anytime you have a question, -Mark (now living in Columbus, Ohio -too far from Michigan! ).
 

Thanks for the info on the sand bars, I can remember a similar problem with the American Queen on the Ohio during a maiden voyage photo shoot. It is adviseable to watch those water levels too (measured under most bridges). Channel markers are a must on many rivers. I hope to make that trip next year myself, have a great fall boating! -Mark
 

I have found that those little dry clear jellylike pills ( those little things you find packed with your VCR ) work well. I also recommend the practice of keeping towels handy on the boat to wipe the skis down before putting them in your locker. Lake Mead is in a very dry area, (I was there in April, Great Lake!) Alabama is just the opposite (at least you won't get chills getting out of the water in late April), so I would recommend looking for those little pellets and adding them by the pound as a possible measure, it works great for me in Ohio. Also there is nothing like a little fan and direct sunlight to dry out the floor and locker after a soaking run in a rain storm.
 

There are all kinds of Marinas on the Ohio side in the Cincinnati area between downtown and the eastern outerbelt (I275). Just hop off of Kellog Ave on the eastern side of I 275 first exit on the Ohio side. I would contact Regal on the bow rail at Regal Marine Industries, Inc., 2300 Jetport Drive, Orlando, FL 32809; Telephone: 1-800-US-REGAL; Facsimile: 1-407-857-1256. E-mail at regal@RegalBoats.com or check out their web site at http://www.regalboat.com/ -Mark.

1-800-603-BOAT (2628) is the number I have for AquaSport.

Aquasport 1651 Whitfield Avenue Sarasota, FL 34243 http://www.genmar.com/netscape/aquaspt/index.html They can locate a dealer near you. http://www.shoplet.com/boats/ Gives you new or used boats, (one of many I have looked at on the net). -Mark

Parts Needed -Lots of E-Mail coming in; here is the latest...

I have it posted!.  -Mark
 

An owners guide on a 1979 boat may be a bit difficult to obtain, but that is one good way to use the Internet!. The last I heard is that Galaxy went out of business and a company called Pen Yan had bought the molds and were producing similar boats. Galaxy was also sold under the President and Magna names. I would recommend obtaining a Chilton's or similar type of service guide for the brand of outdrive that you have on the craft. These guides will provide you with most of the maintenance recommendations on the craft. It also comes in handy for major repair jobs! -Mark

There are numerous parts dealers on the net, Tim's response below indicates he may have an idea of where to find a latch, or perhaps have one available, here's his e-mail address: boatman@gte.net , (Tim Griswold) or contact him in Muskegon, Michigan at (616) 739-8452. (in case you didn't catch the info on the Tips Page). Good luck, -Mark
 

Thanks for the info Tim, I am sure you will have a few e-mails !. -Mark
 

The stiffness probably is from the salt water corrision. You will probably have to buy the cable in bulk and cut to fit on location. I am not familiar with Jamaca, but there should be a dealer on the island you can call to possibly have them repair it. Chances are they can let you know the type of cable to purchase. If anyone viewing could help be sure to send us E-Mail. Good luck and let us know what happens! -Mark
 

You might try Clearfork Marina at 1-800-226-1079 for parts, boaters I have talked to say they have good prices on outboard parts. Good luck on that winter repair -Mark
 

Got ya posted! -Mark
 

If you can come up to Columbus, we have NAPAs all over the place here, not to mention one or two in Zanesville that might have one (of course take Route 40, the traffic in the I70 construction between Cambridge and Zanesville is incredible as I found out while visiting Seneca Lake last Sunday), of course good luck on the replacement of springs -Mark
 

Got ya posted, -Mark
 

Did you check Bass Masters ? They may have something along a steering device. There is a remote control device available (as recently reviewed in Trailer Boats magazine). This kit is expensive but great for the floating bridge effect. If anyone knows of an item be sure to email Roger ! -Mark
 

I have you posted, if anyone has any I'm sure they will drop you a line ! -Mark
 
 

I have not been able to locate a Wellcraft page. There are several dealers that are offering Wellcraft products with websites. Be sure to try Pier45 for a complete run down on their new products and a phone number to call. -Mark
 

The lift equipment may not be exclusive to Bayliner. If you know of the brand you will want to call a marine parts company. There are a huge variety of dealers nationwide. You may want to try Discount Marine Parts at 1-800-226-1079. I do a lot of boating in southeast Ohio, mostly on Seneca Lake as well as an occasional stop on Dillon, Muskingum River, and Salt Fork. There aren't many dealers in that area but there is plenty of boating. On the Muskingum in Zanesville I would try Kirkbride, they also may know where to get the parts you are looking for. See ya on the water this summer! -Mark
 

Got ya posted!. -Mark
 

I have not heard of FIberking, perhaps if one of our readers have heard of them please enlighten us!. I would take it to a marine technician and have them do an estimate. You will want to make sure that the hull, controls, electrical and overall condition of the boat will be worth the $ 1278 that you will be putting into it. Johnson is an easy engine to obtain parts for. If the boat is in seaworthy shape then you should be all right!. -Mark
 

You may want to contact Johnson Outboards at (800) 998-9960. Also a passing surfer may have a spare orginal available ! -Mark
 

Thanks for your input Mike ! -Mark
 

I haven't heard of Plastronics as a previous name for Glastron. Glastron was born in 1956 and had a model with a unique hardtop and is a big collectors item today. They also made the famous Batboat in the mid 60s, which was inspired by the TV series. Any cyber browser viewing feel free to jump in via email if you know of where he can find one! -Mark.
 

Thanks for the information! -Mark
 

I have heard of a place that stocks hard to find parts through mail order, you may try Clearfork Marina at 1-800-837-BOAT. They specialize in Evinrude as one of their lines. You may also try Evinrude for a list of more dealers at 1-800-998-9960. I haven't heard of any aftermarket models. -Mark
 

Got ya posted, -Mark
 

Got ya posted ! -Mark

Thanks for the input Jeff, I have ya posted ! -Mark
 
 

This is the kind of thing cyberspace is for! If anyone can help with this part e-mail us or him ! Wish you luck!  -Mark
 

You should be able to find manuals like these at most marina parts centers in major markets. Evinrude also has a list of dealers that should be able to help, call them at 800-998-9960. -Mark
 

I have you posted. Not an uncommon price for a new drive, though it may be cheaper in teh south. Hopefully a dealer will spot this and reply back soon, good luck. -Mark
 

I checked with sources and couldn't find Karma. Have it posted, -Mark.
 

The important thing is that you don't redline your engine. Check with your Evinrude dealer for high altitude prop suggestions. A smaller propellor will decrease stress on the engine, but at lower altitudes it will send you straight to redline on full throttle. RPMs for that altitude are normal based on suggestions from other boaters. Some have found ways of adjusting the carburetor for improved performance. Some fuel injected models automatically adjust for high altitude. I have heard of three different improvements for high altitude boating. One is adjust the carburetor for a leaner fuel mix, or you will burn rich (again check with your Evinrude dealer), prop switching (only after adjusting the carburetor), and on some brands, different octane of fuel. At higher altitudes you may actually find that lowering the octane will help, (thinner air causes different combustion). As far as the rule of thumb goes, read below, it varies with manufacturers, however if an Evinrude technician happens to read this please e-mail us!. There are charts available for some manufacturers. I will do some more digging this week and hopefully get all of them and post them as made available. Here is a list of Propellor terms I borrowed from a technician. These are what the the men and woman of the marine engine and blade repair world live by.

1. LEADING EDGE - The edge of the propeller nearest to the boat cuts through the water first, starting at the hub it extends to the blade tip.

2. BLADE TIP - This is the farthest point that a propeller extends from the center of the hub to the outer radius of the blade.

3. TRAILING EDGE - The edge of the propeller farthest away from the boat where the water leaves the blade.

4. CUP - The cup on a propeller is designed to help lock the propeller in the water to reduce slippage and prevent cavitation. The cupped area is located on the trailing edge of the blade starting approximately 1" from the hub extending out to the blade tip.

5. PUSHING FACE - This is the face of the propeller blade away from the boat. More commonly called the PITCH FACE which faces the pitch block when repairing.

6. NEGATIVE FACE - This is the face of the propeller blade toward the boat.

7. BLADE ROOT - The thickest area of a propeller where the blade and the hub are joint together.

8. HUB - The center of the propeller that fits over the propeller shaft.

9. OVER HUB EXHAUST - Exhaust gasses flow over the hub and blades.

10. THRU HUB EXHAUST - Exhaust gasses flow through a barrel of outer hub to prevent exhaust gasses from flowing over the blades of the propeller.

11. RUBBER HUB - inner hub bushing made of hard rubber, molded to a splined spindle to protect the drive train when shifting.

12. ACR/DIFFUSER RING - The flared ring used on through hub exhaust propellers. The ACR/Diffuser ring prevents the exhaust gasses from backing up on the blades which produces cavitation on take-off.

13. CAVITATION - The introduction of air on the propeller blades resulting from running a damaged propeller, or from sucking air from the surface of the water. A cavitating propeller is actually slipping and produces very little thrust.

14. PITCH - The theoretical travel of a propeller through a mass per revolution. EX: a 19" pitch propeller moves approximately 19" per revolution.

15. STRAIGHT PITCH - The pitch is constant or the same from leading edge to the trailing edge of the propeller.

16 PROGRESSIVE PITCH - The pitch increases from the leading edge to the trailing edge. EX: Leading edge measures 17", trailing edge measures 17" pitch - this is a 3" regressive pitch.

17. VARIABLE PITCH - The pitch increases from the leading edge to the trailing edge, and from the hub to the outer tip.

19. RAKE - The angle of the propeller blade in correspondence with the propeller shaft.

20. FORWARD RAKE - Blades are angled toward the boat. Commonly used for inboard propellers and small outboard propellers.

21. AFT RAKE - Blades are angled b back or away from the boat. This type of rake is used to help lift the stern of the boat on take-off, and on top end will help to lift the bow up - improving performance.

22. PARABOLIC RAKE - The off center development of a propeller blade used to make the rake concave or convex.

23. DIAMETER - The overall width of a propeller.

24. RIGHT HAND ROTATION - The propeller turns clockwise on the shaft.

25. LEFT HAND ROTATION - The propeller turns counter-clockwise on the shaft.

The pitch on most propellers can be changed to obtain better performance if necessary. Aluminum propellers can be changed two (2") inches up or down in pitch. Bronze propellers can be changed two (2") inches up or down in pitch. Stainless Steel can be changed one (1") inch up or down. We do not recommend changing the pitch any more than one (1") inch.

When changing pitch you need to know how the propeller performs before you change it. By lowering the pitch one (1") inch the motor will gain 200 RPM. By increasing the pitch the motor will lose 200 RPM. Do not attempt changing the pitch of a propeller in towards the hub. The metal in this area usually will not bend. It is only necessary to change 1/3 to 1/2 of the propeller blade to the new pitch.

A Progressive pitch on a propeller makes it more versatile and helps the motor adapt to different loads. A progressive pitched propeller accelerates better than most straight pitch propellers and also develops very good top end.

Most propellers can be changed from straight pitch to progressive pitch. For better take off - lower the pitch over the leading edge. For better top end - increase the pitch over the trailing edge. See example below.

To figure out which pitch will be the most effective on a given boat, follow this formula.

Example

Here goes the calculator.

Here are a list of Typical Rakes

Again check with your manufacturer for exact recommendations before changing your prop in order to satisfy the performance recommendations. -Mark
 

I checked in a catelog and found a MINN KOTA but the specks were smaller with 60-feet of rope at 800 pounds and 35 pounds of anchor capability. I will dig some more this week and try to find some larger units. There are several marine shops in and around Traverse City, a couple south of town on U.S. 31 and one north on 72 just around the west Grand Traverse Bay. One of them (if they are open this time of year) should be able to recommend or have supply of a larger winch. I have a 60 foot anchor I use by hand and have anchrored off Old Mission Pen. close to the shoals, (I can see where you drop off on the dept finder) and get into several hundred feet of water quickly. I will update this response as soon as I get more info, see ya on the water next summer!
 

I have it posted, hopefully someone will be able to track one! -Mark
 

There are several Mecury parts suppliers nationwide. Here are a couple that ship. Discount Marine Parts, 1-800-226-1079, Marine Parts Superstore 1-813-539-7440, Clear Fork Marina Discount Engine Parts 1-800-837-BOAT. -Mark
 

Here is Chrysler's number... 1-800-677-5782. They should be able to refer you to a parts center. -Mark
 

There are outboard manuals for most engines on models usually three or more years old. Check with your library, marine dealer, or strike up a conversation with a boater with a similar engine (whom might make you a photo copy an exchange for an ice cold beverage). But you can't beat the manufactures manual (the one designed for mechanics). It will get you any needed information such as changing the alternator to boring the cylinders. If you are boating in salt water in the Keys, be sure to flush your engine to help reduce corrision. Have fun boating in the keys! -Mark
 

You have me thinking a lot on batteries Dana. I have a Bass Master battery that came with the boat (bought new from a dealer). It is going on four now and still hasn't fussed once (even with the stereo and dept sounder going all day while swimming with my kids in a cove). Batteries have different ratings by cranking amps. I suggest exactly what it recommended for your boat, or if not available, the next higher. I have heard of someone going the next lower and the battery had major problems along with the alternator. A higher amp battery cleared it up completely. Brands may very depending on the area you are in, its not something you find in your average catalog (at least in most, acids require special care for transportation). I suggest your nearest dealer for their recommendations based on their experiences. Sure you can by a battery at Walmart, but a good marine battery is worth a few extra bucks at a marine parts store ! -Mark
 

Don, I checked around and found a dealer at http://www.iwol.com/iww/Customers/CarlStirnsMarine/home.html . They should be able to provide you with parts information. This particular dealer is in Auroa, Illinois. -Mark
 

I have it posted, and I think a lot of internet browsing boaters may be e-mailing you soon! -Mark
 

I would call Evinrude Motors at 1-800-998-9960. It probably takes a standard fuel oil mixture, about a quart of outboard motor oil per five gallons, be sure to check with Evinrude first to be safe. They may have back records or instruction books. -Mark
 

Dana, you may want to check the library for an engine manual, since the hull requires little maintenance, the engine and related equipment is what you want to focus on. You can also call Glastron Boats at 612-632-5481.

Thanks for the Tip! Terry should be in good shape with your advise. The library is also a great idea for books on marine engine repair! -Mark
 

I have a Hummingbird, but I haven't been able to locate my manual. You should be able to push the menu button and see a list of the various functions. If you are not getting a reading be sure to check your transducer usually on the back or in the bilge. Make sure the wires are connected properly. By the way, I have a 94 Marada, Great Boat!
 

I would check with your local marine dealer, you may have to say with genuine parts depending on the age. Johnson outboards are at 1-800-998-9960. -Mark
 

I would make a visit to small claims court over this one. It should be repaired to factory specs, if not demand your money back. I checked my parts file and found a couple of spots, you may want to try Doug Russell's Warehouse Sales which has rebuilts starting from $ 995 with trade and claims to have many hard to find parts. You can call (508) 791-4917 out of Worchester, Mass. Also you may want to try Marine Parts Plus at (609) 461-3180 (Delran, N. J.). A couple of long distance calls can save you a lot on your bank account! -Mark

I found a site in Queensland area of Australia at http://www.quikpage.com/S/sprmari/ located at Springwood Marine Pty Ltd 3445 Pacific Hwy Slacks Creek, Queensland 4127 Australia.

Phone: 07-3208-5755 FAX: 07-3209-1366 (Hope this helps you out!) -Mark.

I have read about dual props and have found that they do increase performance, which may help you to get on plane easier. I checked my Volvo accessory listing and you can talk to someone at 1-800-88-VOLVO. Tech number is at (407) 338-8844. Verrigni Marine Inc. in Boca Raton, Florida. West Coast in the Seattle Area there is also another dealer in my list at 1-800-223-5284 (Coastal Marine). They can fill you in on the possibilities on your boat or at least foward you to a number. -Mark
 

Hope you enjoy the page!  I have seen the lock kits (also available for trailer lug nuts) and unfortunately I don't have the catalog with me but I should have it by Monday. I haven't heard about any that have fallen off, but I have heard cases of regular mounted props falling off. You might have a McGuard lock, call them at 1-800-669-6887.

• Be sure to check out other boaters pages through these great search tools!

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Copyright ©: Mark K. Cameron Revised March  16th, 1999