A word from Boating America Author Mark Cameron, 

Ok its only an 18 foot but it is small enough for the kind of inland lakes and rivers I like and its big enough for the kids and I without going overboard on HP. limits. It is a Kentucky based manufacturer and it uses the ever famous Mercrusier outdrive in the 3.0 litre 4 cylinder format. Its a first boat, low payment, low insurance and light enough for the van to idle it out of the water. I can get up to 40 miles per hour on a ski prop but I generally stay at a 20 - 30 miles per hour speed.

I pulled into the Marine dealership that following morning ready to pick up the boat and brought the kids with me (not telling them what I was up to I might add). My daughter 8 and son 5 just thought it was just another trip to a dealer which I was sure they found boring until we went back to the van and the boat and trailer were all hooked up. The kids needless to say were excited probably more than I was.

-First Time Out-

They say its the happiest day when they sell the boat too! But now nearly two years later, each day I take the cover off with a full 30 gallon gas tank I still feel just as happy! That day on Dillon lasted about two hours when our first raging thunderstorm came along. We made a quick run for the van and I backed the trailer down the ramp and spent the entire down-pour trying to get lined up for the trailer (not bad considering the high winds). After about 20-minutes I was up out of the water, engine up, drain out and ready with the towels. Then on the way through Zanesville a light suddenly changed and I couldn't stop in time and I could say it was my first written warning pulling a trailer. It doesn't end there, I headed to visit a friend and while trying to get situated backing up, a drunk driver came flying down the road out of nowhere and I heard this sickening "screech". Fortunately he only nicked the trailer, but I couldn't say much about his car! He got out and looked at his car, turned to me, he looked mad and a bit dis-oriented, (It was dark and I technically had the high beams on by accident and he didn't see the trailer while I was backing) and he asked me who was going to pay for the damage to his car. I (with my heart still raging and still wet from the storm) said, "let me make a phone call, the sheriff should take a report". I headed for my car phone and he immediately backed down and ran to his car and took off. Yes he really reeked of alcohol and didn't to file a report. Needless to say I little touch up paint on the Tennesse Trailer with the Bearing Buddies did the trick! To this day I still practice backing without taking up more than my lane.

Not a bad first day, at least the boat wasn't at the bottom of the lake. I have taken that boat on lake after lake in Michigan, West Virginia and my home state of Ohio. I also broke my first prop a week later while on vacation near Traverse City on Torch lake. It happened while trying to out run a Thunderstorm, that I have been a magnet for lately.

This summer I plan on a relaxing house boat trip on Kentucky's Lake Cumberland. I have never been there and I am very excited about it!
 
 

Favorite Inland Lake Trip:

If you like to Fish, this will be one long troll you will never forget. On Grass River it was as easy as casting the rod!

Back in Elk Rapids we caught up with a couple whom had made the trip on Jet Skis. I used about 15 gallons of fuel, and still had enough for the rest of the vacation. Lodging is expensive in the Traverse City area in July but the best time seems to be in June when the weather (at least it seems) to be drier then, and with less expensive rooms available.

Also if you like the big stuff, Grand Traverse's Bay offers shelter from the Lake Michigan roughness and a suggested stop is Suttons bay and North Port on the west bay area. The weather changes quickly and I recommend a Marine Radio for Lake Michigan.

I know this is getting long, but this is one of many stories I find myself getting into with many other boaters that are shut in for the winter, except in the south. If you have any experiences on exciting all day boating trips or Great Lake Crossings, Waterways etc., E-Mail me your experiences and I will post them. Also be sure to check out boaters news groups which I have posted on the "Links Page".

Mark Cameron

Space for tips on your boating techniques

Thanks Mike for the mail, I dropped this in the techniques because of the idea of base camping and running politely around bass fisherman. This lake sounds great, I hope to launch in down there sometime soon. Take care and happy boating this summer! -Mark
 

I lost one of my keys once after ramping onto a river just above a small dam. After shoving off we started drifting towards the dam (which is a non controlled water fall type I forget the technical name) I wound up hot wiring the boat rather than fighting the current with oars. I had about 300 yards to spare. Now I start my boat while on the trailer and back off, doing away with the "getting shoved off without keys problem". The advice is well taken, I keep a spare key in my wallet for that just in case scenario. I haven't come across any parts catalogs for motors, there are exhaust manifolds for many engines (which usually fail after two years when used heavily in salt water) so your best bet is to contact your Force dealer, they may have a parts shop type of catalog that you may be able to order from or at least be able to supply you with the necessary rings and valve replacement parts, or whatever else you may need to rebuild. Good luck this winter ! -Mark
 

I would recommend contacting http://www.bysnet.com/portside/ for a Landau dealer for your Pontoon. They may have the recommended manuals. When running in salt water part time I would suggest flushing the engine as soon as you pull it out. Also hose down the entire water exposed craft which will rinse the salt off and will reduce the speed of the erosion. Make sure that before you put in salt water that you make sure all your throttle and stirring cables are well lubricated to reduce exposure to the salt water air and any splashes. Good luck and see out on Tampa Bay sometime! (where my picture above was taken) :) . -Mark
 

Glad to hear it worked out, the backing up is the hardest part! -Mark
 

I agree 100 %. Especially on a busy Sunday!  Running too much power while pulling onto the trailer can also cause small groups of fish to be pulled into the prop wash causing a deadly situation for the fish. A little thrust is all you need, otherwise back the trailer in a little more. Thanks for your input! -Mark
 

You may want to try a high power car wash type of spray but with a lot more pressure. Also check your marine store for legal chemicals that won't harm fiberglass that will help soak the items off. Different states have different chemicals available. If all else fails I would then ask the fiberglass specialist about sanding it off and relaying layers of fiberglass coated with epoxy. Once you are back in the water and if you don't trailer regularly it would be a good idea to wipe the boat down including the entire hull and engine compenents regularly to clear away the build up. Its easy to take up snorkeling and go under the hull on smaller boats while anchored off a cosy beach and use a mop type of handle to clean it off. If the weather is too cold I would recommend trailering it to clean it off regularly. Also don't forget to check into antifouling paint (avaialble in many areas of the U.S.).

-Mark

I wouldn't invest in trim tabs for your particular size of boat, but the hydrofoil will help reduce the speed you need to reach to get up in plane by a couple of miles per hour. Unfortunately you are running at speeds that just begin to put the boat up on a steady plane, especially at 18 miles per hour. With a lighter weight load it will be more steady at 18, but drop off when you are hauling passengers beyond your spotter. At speeds of 22 (with a hydro add on kit) you should wipe out the problem all together. If you are still encountering speed changes you may want to change your prop to a new pitch giving you more revolutions at the same speeds (this will cut down in your top end however). As far as your trip to the outer banks, you should have a marine radio, the usual safety gear, plenty of food in case of engine problems, a GPS or Loranz and good charts that indicate marinas and fueling stops. Thanks for the compliment on the site and have fun on your trip ! -Mark
 

There are thousands like us huh Fred ! Let me know how the Rough River Reservoir turns out, have a great 97!
 

I have heard of people sitting back for a full Sunday afternoon of entertainment down at the boat ramps! Its true, about discussing the process with your mate, and even practicing on a slow launch day. I have seen this demonstrated by a fishing club here in Columbus that meets on some Tuesdays where around 50 boats launch on four ramps in less time then it takes 8 to 10. One in the boat while the vehicle backs down, tilts engine in while hitting the water, starts engine, releases boat backs off, all while the trailer is moving backwards, brakes are hit and the truck pulls forward and the boat is out and away from the ramp and over to tempoary tie up, all in a matter of seconds. The traffic keeps moving, try that on a Sunday sometime! A little practice can gain a lot of speed and respect from for anyone waiting behind any boater!. Have fun next summer ! -Mark
 

Perry that water is "brine" which is fresh water saturated with salt. You should still flush for least amount of corrision. Even flushing on freshwater lakes is good practice to remove sand and mud which can build up in the engine. Your plans on the boat with the 200 HP OB engine should be easy to flush while even tilted out of the water (unlike stern drives). Some stern drive models have radiators that have coolant just like cars and don't cool with raw sea water. These units are popular with many salt water boaters since you have less engine corision with this setup. If you switch to stern drive model, check into this kind of cooling system. Local Marine dealers in Virginia are more than friendly when it comes to advice! -Mark.
 

The size of boat you are looking at is fine but be careful of bad weather!. I have been in the Hampton Roads area in January and as for the winter boating you should be fine. I would keep an eye out for cold weather patterns and watch water temperatures just in case of freezing problems, winters there do have a few cold spells, mostly ice though. Have a trailer handy in case of a real hard freeze, you could pull out and drain the necessary items, bilge etc. A cabin boat does require more work as far as winterizing, especially with holding tanks. You should store fresh water tanks with an RV type of antifreeze that is safe for the environment, and as far as the winter cabin goes, skip the bathroom / shower (if equipped) until March. Your wife is right as far as smaller boats go, they are easier, but a true boating hobbiest won't mind a little extra work!. The bottom paint is a must. Anti fowling paint (if I have that spelled correctly) will help prevent organisims from building up on the bottom of the boat and ultimately give you continued easy planes when running at higher speeds, especailly if it sits at a slip instead of on a trailer. Spend the extra money, its worth it!. -Mark
 

Boat fuel is measured in miles per gallon and / or gallons per hour, it would peak at about 25 or 30 or so depending on torque etc, so at that speed you might get about 2.5 miles per gallon or around 10-12 gallons per hour. Not the Geo Metro type of mileage, but the lighter the boat the more fuel miles it would have. You should go about 13 hours on a tank, unless your loaded down with passangers, or 120-140 miles. I suggest go out 1/3 then turn around and come back on the 2/3, leave yourself a good 1/3 tank for bad weather, currents or god forbid, emergencies. -Mark
 

Outboards are easier to winterize than I/Os so here are a few tips, of course you should always refer to a manual. Most people will hook up the engine to a water hose using cups (available for about 4 dollars at Walmart) start the engine and squirt oil into the carberator for a few minutes and then stalling it out. The smoke it generates coats the entire inside of the engine and exhaust helping to reduce rust. Others may take out each of the plugs and squirt oil in the cylinders and turn over the crank a few times (if a hose isn't available). Next take the battery out and clean the contacts, remove the tank and stablize any stored fuel (with a stabilizer available at most marine and auto stores (on I/Os pour some in your tank on your last outting so it gets into the fuel line as well). Next obtain the proper gear oil (I use Quick Silver High Performance on mine), and open the screw on the lower part of the engine just above the skeg where it drains the gear oil. Also open the top screw this will help all the oil to drain out. This is a great time to remove any water that may be in the casing and eliminate a chance for cracking from ice. The process is slow but worth it. Then pump oil in from the bottom with a gear oil pump (available at all marine dealers). When the oil reaches the top hole you are done (newer boats with reservoirs need to be topped off as well). Remove the pump, pump some into the top (which the level may be a little low with a few air bubbles), and your gear oil is changed!. Next I recommend storing the trailer in a tilted postion so any moisture will run out the back, and leave the drain hole unplugged. (some boats have exhuast manifolds that must be drained for winter storing or pumped with anti freeze, other should have an anti freeze change depending on the type of I/O unit). Next Jack the trailer so the wheels don;t get a flat spot, check your trailer bearings, re torque your lug nuts, and lube any necessary parts (ie. power tilt if applicable, check reservoir). You may also want to coat your steering lines and throttle linkages with special lube 101 (some use WD40) to make sure the lines are working properly. Plan to spend an afternoon and then in the spring you will be ready to be back out on the lake by hooking up the tank and battery and you're set. -Mark

I have seen that experience more than once even on personal watercraft. If you have enough time and are not weighed down by too much water on the boat you can usually get up to plane and with a little trim you can nose up and dump out the water, especially helpful along with the bilge pump. I strongly recommend to trailer the boat unless you have the plug with you and in that case pull up on a beach where you're not in mud and then screw it in. Other wise if you are weighed down its bucket time or swim!   -Mark

I have heard of first experiences like these many times. I think you may want to tune up your engine however, it shouldn't stall during a complete stop from a full throttle. Have all your filters and the timing checked. A new set of plugs and wires would help decrease gas consumption. As far as backing the boat, a secret to the first time out is to take it out on a weekday by yourself or with a first mate and get the feel of backing, launching, trailering and operation (weekdays are great for this, there is never anyone around to watch you make a few mistakes). Then you will have a feel of whats coming up when the whole family and friends are there watching the christening. In your case I would reschedule the christening, after a couple of pratice runs and a tune up!  I must admit one thing I did do last summer as far as stalling goes, I was running my 18ft open bow out on Grand Traverse Bay when the weather was changing, causing some 3-5 foot waves to roll in. I hooked up my safety cut-off switch to my belt and managed to take the boat out to the Old Mission Light House, about 6 miles from Elk Rapids. We got out to the tip, staying about 500 yards from shore to avoid the Shoals (rocks), and when I stood up after stopping the engine cut off. I was thinking to my self and caused concern to my kids, that the engine wouldn't restart and we will have to drift back to shore which may take hours. Then I remembered the cutoff switch, and luckily got the now flooded engine started. Fortunately I had a cellular phone and a GPS along to call for help in case the waves got any worse. I rarely boat on Lake Michigan, I like to stay more inland, but my oldest daughter had to see that lighthouse! (quite spectacular at sunset !).

I will look into developing a new section for first time buyers, and be sure to ask your wife if she would give it another chance after a few pratice runs. Also be sure to look into a Boaters Safety course, Good luck on your next run Clay! -Mark

John, you need to have your friends take a little walk once its trailer time. Have one drive the boat up to the trailer once you have dunked and then have him or her walk it out with you. I find that launching has been easier by doing it by myself. I back in (after straps and plugs are checked bower on etc.) and wait to see the back of the boat floating. Then I go back to the boat and disconnect the winch and back it off, dock and then park the van. Trailering is easy by yourself when your not busy analysing suggestions from everyone!. I dock, back the trailer in unitl about 6 inches of carpet is showing (or top wheels just sticking out for roller models). Then I drive up and shut the engine down and tilt up. Then I winch the boat on about a foot or so (occassionally I thrust up when and where its legal, but thrusting can damage the guide if you hit it too hard, plus you don't want to make a fish milkshake in case a school of fish happen to be in the ramp area which is comon in the late summer). I Winch and I am out of there. Later I strap, drain the engine and remove the drain plug, wipe down cover and check the bearings, lights, and I am out of there. Other people have their own methods of trailering such has always having a first mate around, where two people can save time as long as a method is discussed a head of time, (I've-seen it done in under 3-minutes). Good luck John on your next run!

E-Mail

Joanne

If you want to be the fastest, have more punch when towing skiers, and enjoy that extra power when you need it, the few extra dollars is worth it as long as your budget allows it. You will drink gas faster but mostly at extreme speeds. Standard just above wake speeds (20 - 25 knots) will not make much of any difference.   Your resale percentage value will be better as well. On the other hand  if you are not out to be the fastest, rarely tow or carry several passangers, and run frequently on rough waters, then you may want to save and go with the smaller engine, (since probably you won't be using the higher end rpms as much). Your resale percentage however will be slightly lower.  Both engines are reliable from my experiences, however break them in by varying your speed for the first 20 hours or so of running time. I have known a few BAJA dealers who have gunned a  new engine and burned out the gears on the outdrive in undcr one hour of break-in..  Still under warranty but brings on delays which can ruin a boating trip.  -Mark

The octane has little impact on hesitation. 89 at less than 2000 feet above sea level is ideal and recommended in order to get cleaner fuel. Above 2000 feet gas burns differently and doesn't need as much octane and 87 or in some cases even less is sufficient, (such as Lake Dillon in Colorado that is over 5000 feet above sea level). However you also may have some bad gas too. First fill your boat up with 89 (I recommend Marathon or Shell), and when on the water after warming up and running a little try taking off back to 3/4 of a throttle or so. If after your second or third fill up you still have hesitation then what you have most likely is a timing problem. It may need to be  advanced a degree or two.  Then since yoru boat is brand new and under warranty  I would recommend taking it back to the dealer for a timing check and or adjustment. Good luck and have a great summer boating!.
 
 
 
 

I have to say you ran into a bit of luck buying property and getting a boat thrown in. Make sure before you float to read on and check out the trailering tips and operating techniques. Above all make sure you have the necessary life jackets, fire extinguisher, safety flag, horn, navigation lights, bilge ventilation, flame arrestor and any other legal requirements for safe boating in your state and then you are ready to head out, and once out watch for the no wake and wake zones and respect distances from other boats and you are ready. Let me know how your first time out turns out!  -Mark
 

Starcraft is well known in the midwest and parts of the south. I haven't heard of anyting negative. The only concern about the incident without the plug is that your engine and and sterring cables weren't submerged. If they were then you should re-lubricate all the lines and fog the engine. But if it was only the haul, aside from any possible metal screws, which even then was probably another form of mostly non corrosive metal, you shouldn't worry about it. As a precaution I would rinse out the bildge area with good old fashion tap water. Last, there are blue books on boats, check with your local marine dealer for specs, most sales reps are more than happy to help out.  -Mark
 

I am always looking forward to hearing from technicians.  Please feel free to check our BBSs linkable from the front page anytime.  Many boaters  stopping by Boating America may at one time or another need your advise!.  -Mark
 
 

I would suggest checking with the Gwinnett Court House and see if your neighborhood has any zoning restrictions. If they do you will probably have to contact an attourney for legal options, (of course you will also want to check with the state of Georgia, so it would probably be safe to hire an attourney for the few dollars it would cost, it would be a good investment before sinking 50 to 250 thousand for a houseboat). It will also be costly to put the houseboat in the pond, unless it leads into the river directly. Let me know what happens! -Mark
 

Deadrise is the measurement of the angle between the bottom of a boat and its widest beam. A vessel with a 0º deadrise has a flat bottom, high numbers indicate deep V shaped hul. In a nut shell, you have a deep V, which cuts through the choppier water better than say a 0º which would be a really flat surface and giving you the feel of every little ripple in the water, and one foot waves or more a bone shaking ride. The deep V tends to cut the waves and push the water a-part smoothing out the chop. The deeper the angle the smoother the ride, however too much will cause the boat to tilt to the side when the weight in the boat shifts left or right of the center. 24 degrees is a good angle and also helps the boat give a stable ride even when the weight shifts to the side. Plus you will see nearly all manufacturers change the shape or angle measurement between front and back of the hull to give you less chance of boat roll over in the event the motor turns to one side at full throttle, and have the appearance of a Boston Whaler design in the back 1/3 still providing a smooth ride at 35 mph + speeds at proper engine tilt. Have fun in your new boat this coming season! -Mark
 

I have heard of rivet heads coming off as aluminum boats age, especially around salt water. You need to dry dock the boat, and have a specialist inpect it for possible repair. If the condition of the surface is good (not dented, cracked, bent or has too much corrision) then it may be repairable. My family has had the same aluminum row boats since the 60s which at this minute are sitting upside down on a beach in Traverse City, Michigan and probably being run over by snowmobiliers as you read this. To this date I don't think they have lost a rivet yet. It would be worth repairing if repairable. Good luck ! -Mark
 

DIck, it sounds like your rod that turns your distributor may be damaged causing a irregular spin like a tire out of bounce, this may be why your metal might be wearing more on one side. You will probably have to remove the rod or gear that turns your distributor and inspect the gears and any other components related to the shaft, inspecting for anything bent etc.. It will probably be cheaper to repair it rather then install fuel injection. Fuel injection is more fuel efficient and gives you improved performance, if you are up for the cost it may be worth your while! Good Luck and let us know what happens! -Mark
 

The cavitation plate is part of the Anode usually towards the rear of the engine. It probably will not effect performance but may cause corrision problems later. An aftermarket anode part (if that is what your unit uses as a plate) will probably be cheaper than paying someone to weld it. I have seen them in aftermarket as low as $ 9.95. However check with your honda dealer for advice. You may want to visit their site at http://www.honda-marine.com for more information. Skegs are also an item that gets broken while backing. They can in almost all cases be welded. -Mark
 

I checked and couldn't locate anything on Fibreform, but you can find plenty of information on the engines at http://www.mercurymarine.com/ . They should be able to locate a Candian dealer near you for manuals. -Mark
 

I plan on winterization in November. I have stored mine outside in the past but recently have cleaned out the garage and it stays just above freezing. First: if the steering is loose but has no play, then you are fine, some boats have power steering, but if it has play contact your Mercruiser / Rinker Dealer for advice, bleeding should be done by a professional (or at least step by step device). Otherwise may wind up with more play then when you started. Two: only do this if you are finding play at high speeds, or while out of the water see if the steering has any play. Three: the drifting or swerving back and fourth is normal at low speeds when the trim is all the way up in shallow areas. Install a depth sounder and keep your trim in most of the way when possible, a depth sounder helps you to avoid hitting the skeg on the bottom (once you realize your getting into shallow water readings). This will reduce the swerving, my boat does the same thing at idle and I have gotten used to it now by habbit, (but the trimming helps).

Winterization requires (at least as a precaution against freezing) the draining and replacing the outdrive oil. But first pour fuel stable liquid into the gas tank and fill it nearly full with plus type of high quality gasoline. Then run a garden hose to your engine (you will need a special engine attachment which pumps water into the intakes on the lower part of your outdrive), start the engine with the hose running, and fog it by pouring oil right into your carberator and letting the smoke from your exhaust coat all the components inside your engine, I use a full quart and pour it in little by little so the engine doesn' t stall, and then completely stall it out as I near the end of the quart. Then drain your block, if your block freezes in the winter then your will have damage to your engine, possibly so extreme that you will have to replace it. There are two plugs on the four cylinder located on the right underside of your carberator manifold, one is actually on the engine wall, the other on the manifold and are recognized by the brass type of plug. I drain mine everytime I pull out of the lake. Drain this after the fogging process, then lower and raise your outdrive to get the water out. Next shut off your ignition safety switch (located near your throttle), and crank the engine several times to push any remaining water out. I also suggest pulling your boat around the block which will prevent puddeling (of course have your bilge plug off). Then do your outdrive oil. The oil is thick so the process will take a while. Use Quicksilver drive oil on Mercrusier, they make two types, a standard mixture and a heavier mixture (check your manual for which type to use) and will take about two quarts. You need to obtain a pump kit at your marine dealer which screws into the top of the oil container, and pump it in from the bottom of the outdrive. Once the oil flows out of the top plug (at the top of your outdrive), then you cap the bottom plug and then fill your reservoir in the engine compartment so you have a good flow out of the top plug. Seal the top plug and level the reservoir and the outdrive is safe for the winter and ready for spring. Be sure to watch your reservoir in the spring as it will lower after the air bubbles in the oil settle. Trim your engine down (to prevent the gimble bearing from freezing in a trimmed positions) Disconnect your battery and store it in your garage or place where it will be a little above freezing. Do not store it in your house, acid fumes are unhealthy. Next drain your engine oil and replace the oil filter (its easy and just like doing it in a car), use 25W 40 Quicksilver which is recommended in most Mercruiser applications, it will keep your warranty in tack. Lubricate your plugs on the left and right side of your outdrive with quicksilver lubricants, and your throttle and steering linkages with special lube 101. Last but not least re-tighten your lugnuts on your trailer, and put it on jack stands to prevent tire rot. Check your bearings or bearing buddies to make sure there is plenty of lubrication. On bearing buddies you should be able to push down on one side of the plastic bleeder tube which helps to repack the greese. If there is no play then pump boat trailer grease into the plugs on the bearings until the bleeder moves just a little, (this should be done everytime you submerse or re-fuel on long trips). Too much will cause the grease to run out and splatter your wheels. Repack the buddies every five years. Thats about it, your are now ready for storage and spring. PS some people like to inject anti-freeze into the engine for prolong storage in winter and spring, it is important to get the right mixture of antifreeze in the system. Check with your dealer on advice for your climate. Also if your engine has a passive cooling system (found more in salt water ready engines) the winterization process will be a little different. Have a great fall season boating! - Mark.
 

Too much trim can have an effect on Torque steering. Trimming in more will help, plus look at weight distribution in the boat, (such as all passengers or weight on one side), or if you are in a high cross wind, you will run into steering pull. Choose a calm day with no wind, distribute the weight evenly on one side, then take a run and adjust your trim or tilt, and your keel. You should be able to find the happy medium. If all else fails, check your engine and make sure it mounted level. -Mark
 

I can think of a couple of possibilities. First make sure your trim is set lower. If the trim is too high it will cavitate on turns and also when the boat is loaded heavy in the front. If you are loading 8 people on board, try a run alone and see if the problem still exists Second remove your prop, check to make sure the teeth are not stripped, if they are, replace the necessary parts and the prop. If it still slips, you whould remove and inspect the outdrive, of course with the help of a good mechanic and a manual (Chilton's is one good source available at most marine shops). Good luck and see you on the lake! -Mark
 

The Muskingum River is Ohio's only navagable inland waterway (fully inside the state) where all its locks, some dating back to the early 1800s are still hand cranked. There are 11 locks starting with Ellis (just south of Dresdin and about every 5 - 10 miles apart all the way south to Marietta. You can launch on the river free at Riverside Park in Zanesville (south of Ellis which is shallow anyway), and start locking at Zanesville at the 5th St. Bridge. The park office is at this lock and you can purchase an annual pass for $35 (as of last year). The locks are only open on weekends and I would suggest calling the ODWC to make sure all the locks are open before venturing out. The river is 5 feet deep on average and shallower below the locks. Check with each lock master for directions around shallow spots. An early Saturday Morning start can make the round trip possible in two days, lock operaters radioed ahead to the other lock operators the last time I made the trip so the locks were set to raise and lower us at the time we arrived reducing locking delay time. Locks south of Ellis include Zanesville, Philo (about 7 miles south of Zanesville), Rockerby Lock, McConnelsville/Malta, Stockport (bat capitol of southeast Ohio) and Beverly many with picnic facilities. Fishing is excellent, a fish caught near the Beverly locks was used in the movie Grumpier Old Men II. I was out in Alum Creek Thusday evening checking out the TNT competition weigh-in, and will probably be out again a week from Sunday, if I see your boat I will be sure to wave! -Mark
 

I live for a buritto at Dockside ! My kids also like the little indoor shuffleboard game!. Being a formal resident of Birch Lake I have been to several Harbor Days which do have great fireworks!. However this year I won't be able to get up there until August 18th, a little late for the fest, but I still like those sunset cruises to the Old Mission Lighthouse Point (well away from the shoals though), and may head out to Northport if the lake is calm. Last year I made the Cherry Festival, Blue Angles had a great show out on the west bay!. Glad to ehar that you have all the bugs out of that 27 footer!. Sea Ray makes a great line, but maintenance is a must!. I  highly recommend the Crooked Tree - Burt Lake etc. based on what I have heard and read. I plan on running part of that chain while I am up there. Also for boating on a smaller scale the Intermeidate Lake - Wilson Lake etc. is also great, but a little shallow during dry seasons. The scenery is spectacular along with the fishing. Thanks for writing and please keep in touch and let me know how things are up there near T.C.. -Mark
 

I have run a boat with a hydrofoil, and found that it helps to plane at a slightly lower speed, but has less effect at high speeds. The main benefit is the ability to gain speed quicker since you will plane around 13-15 (speeds may very among brands of boats and hydrofoils) and power up faster since the engine isn't working as hard to plane. It also improves handling at slower speeds and reduces porpesing (the bobbing up and down usually at speeds below the 30 when trimmed to high). Its an inexpensive way to give a little kick to your performance and different hydrofoils will very, some cost as little as $24.95 and others (which claim a better holeshot on a speed prop and better turnging at higher speeds) will reach into the $ 100 plus range. If you are into heavy turning while pulling a tube or into a little more performance, and have been boating for at least two years (where most boaters start to get the real feel of performance) then you may want to give it a try!. -Mark
 

I would recommend using plus octane gas, check your plugs, timing etc. propellor, and also your carry-ons. Some people tend to collect things on their boat which wind up weighing things down and reducing your speed. Last but not least the weather can have a slight effect of a mile and hour or two, more humid air intaking in the carberator reduces speed and less humid cooler air (which is a more dense air) will give you maximum performance. This is what I have noticed over several years in boating, ie. northern Michigan I run about 42 in 75 degree weather and Columbus, Ohio I max at about 39 in 90 degree weather on a four cylinder. Good luck and have a great summer on the water ! -Mark
 

I haven't heard of such a site, but sounds like a good idea. If anyone can run a copy off for Chris please e-mail him! Most repair shops that have been around for years and years usually can get access to manuals, and in some cases you may be able to locate a Chilton's manual at a local library in a county that has lakes and navigable rivers. -Mark
 

That compression ratio sounds good for an 8 cylinder, it would be around 9.0 to 1 or higher on a four cyclinder. I would suggest checking the exhaust manifold for leaks and corrision, if it is a fresh water engine this would be a proper indicator for corrision. More corrision indicates more running and or salt water running. Check the plugs, points etc. If possible take the water pump off where you can peak at the cylinder wall area. If chipping is noted then engine trouble may be a problem soon. As far as parts and manuals contact their website at www.bertram.com . -Mark